Guys, really wanting to get on board the Speedy train. Funds are limited, prefer automatic.

Just seen this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Polished-...632752?hash=item4d44ac6db0:g:Rb4AAOSwH6lXRa5aPurchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network

What can you tell and or advise me?


Many thanks in advance....

 

bracelet is very short. you can do better with a little patience

 

Thank you!

Any tips for do's and don't when looking?
I keep trying to read as many posts as I can, but it seems there is so much to take in it's a little confusing

 

http://speedmaster101.com/

 

http://www.fratellowatches.com/spee...ed-versus-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch/

 

That was very helpful, Thanks!

 

Another great guide, Thanks for that!

 

Hey Cosd,

I originally wanted to get on the speedmaster train and was very quickly convinced to save up my rubles and wait to be able to afford a speedmaster professional.

There are a couple right now on the equipment exchange (heads only) for just around 2K USD. Make them a solid offer and maybe you'll find yourself a nice watch at a good price.

Also, i tried the ebay thing, make sure you buy from a trusted seller or off of a forum like this, i purchased my first omega and ended up putting quite a pretty penny into servicing the watch before it was wearable.

 

For instance: https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-speedmaster-professional-3570-50-head-only-on-strap.40784/

I had my eye on this one, i just bought a house though and can't "really" afford to part with 2K right now.

 

I'm in exactly the same boat, I recently bought a house and we have just started renovation. I get funny looks from the wife when she see's me looking at watches

 

That looks very nice!!

So I tried looking that 3570.50 on the price list on here http://speedmaster101.com/price-chart-2/, but it doesnt list that caliber

Am I missing something?

 

Speedmaster101 covers Speedmasters up to the 145.022-78 model, which ended production more than 15 years before the 3570.50 began production.

Look for 3570.50s in the 2-2.5k range (top of range should have a full-length bracelet at the very least, if not box/papers)

Also, agreed with above sentiments re. skipping the auto. Many members here and friends of mine from elsewhere have found sooner or later that they wanted to make the move to the bona-fide Professional after owning Reduced / Autos for a while.

 

Can I ask a stupid question please?
On a full wind, how long do the Professionals run for before needing another wind?

 

42 hours I believe.

 

My Mark II (omega 861 caliber) lasts a good 3 days between winds. But winding a watch becomes a ritual that I like to do in our morning management meetings, whilst everyone else taps the indiglo buttons on their 2016 timex rigs.



it feels good man, i say take the leap if you can afford it! you wont be dissapointed.

also, i look at watches at work and have them sent to my work address. Saves the heat at home.

 

Old ones will last around 42 hours, newer ones will push 50 sometimes.

Owning a manual-wind watch seems complicated and involved when you don't have one, but once you get into the rhythm of winding it every day (takes 5-10sec) it becomes second nature

 

Older Cal. 321 are listed at 35 hours power reserve. Cal. 861, 1861, 1863, 1866 are all 48 hours.

It's not uncommon for a freshly serviced watch to run a bit longer than the power reserve official numbers. It depends on the condition of the movement also.

The manual winding Speedmasters should be wound once a day.

Cheers, Al

 

In terms of wear and tear on a vintage watch, is it better to always keep the movement wound or give it a rest on days that we dont wear them?

I'm wondering if the continuous lubrications in the jewels is like highway driving a car, my gut feel is that starting and stopping is harder on the watch.

But i could be completely wrong..

 

There is no advantage to keeping a watch running. Oils are held in place in the jewels through capillary action, so my advice is to let it run down if you are not using it.

Cheers, Al

 

You get more wear starting and stopping a car as a cold engine will have slightly more wear. This is due to cold oil not giving as much lubrication as oil at operating temp. Some performance engines go to great length to address this. The BMW S54B32 run special 10w60 oil and has an LED soft redline on the tach to warn against high engine speeds with a cold engine. The lower the first number the lower the temp needed to get the oil to operating temp. The higher number is when the oil starts to break down and no longer lubricate.