@Chin Feng ... let's take this example of yours as a little teaching aid.
First you think "wow, what great condition". That should set all the alarm bells ringing immediately. When you see something this "good", look at the parts you wouldn't normally see. Look at the scratches all over the movement. Why is a movement scratched to hell when the dial is so pristine? Look at the marks on the sides of the lugs and case: these are deep scratches that have been polished out, at least in part. What's happened to the bevels on the lugs? You can do this sort of checking without any knowledge of the reference itself. This is all common sense. Also, always check the outside of the caseback. Look for signs of scratches that have been polished again.
Now, to details. First giveaway (to me at least) is the centering of the "omega" and any text below it. It amazes me how such a simple detail is often wrong when a dial has been repainted. Dead giveaway. Next is the minute track. You need to be familiar with a reference to know if the track is in the correct position (this looks wrong to me but I don't know without looking it up). What's easy to spot is the length and thickness of each dash. Everything should be consistent unless it is worn. Differing lengths and thickness are another simple giveaway. Next, the font: an easy spot is if you have the correct "S" in Seamaster (you don't) but the coathanger and rounded S were used on different references so you need to check. The stone cold giveaway here are the T Swiss T. If it's a 1954 the dial would be radium. There was no requirement to mark tritium dials until 1964 and few were. Again, check the reference but that's a huge red flag that you don't need a loupe to spot.
There's actually more wrong with this watch than I've listed here but you should have walked away from it before you even got part way through the points I've made.
Keep looking and keep learning. There are lots of beautiful vintage pieces still out there waiting for a loving home.
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