Help on dial size for an Omega Seamaster 166.002

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Hi all,

I'm looking for an original dial for an Omega Seamaster ref 166 002 with a cal 565 inside.

I found locally this one, which I like, but the seller is unsure about the caliber it comes from.

Size, as per pic enclosed, is 29.41mm: do you think that it would be fine on my watch?

Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Alessandro
 
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Is it’s worth it to swap out your redial for a heavily patinated original dial?
Personally unless it has sentimental value I’d sell your watch and simply add some additional funds to buy an original version.

If it does have sentimental value simply leave it as is
 
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Thanks, yes it has a huge sentimental value, being family's heirloom.
Anyway, I'd like to wear it but not with this poor dial.
 
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I can’t help with the dial diameter but I doubt the replacement dial you’re considering ever came with a 166.002 as the font is too early.
It may still fit, I don’t know.

I guess the obvious question is, how far do you go? The case looks to have lost significant amounts of the gold plating on the lugs, so you try and replace the case as well? If so, you end up with an heirloom that is mostly replaced. Obviously it’s down to your preference but if that repainted dial has been in place for some years, imo it has become part of the watch and its history so I’d leave it as is.
 
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Yes, I'm aware of the reference is not the same, that dial could come from a ref. 14770 with a 562 inside. Probably, it may fit.
Once fitted an original dial and crown, which probably I already have, I'd like to have the case replated.
So the caseback, which is stainless steel, would be the same that my grandpa wore on his wrist sixty years ago :)
 
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In your place, I would pull the movement out of the watch and carefully measure the original dial. Seems easier and more likely to be correct than asking random folks on the internet.
 
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In your place, I would pull the movement out of the watch and carefully measure the original dial. Seems easier and more likely to be correct than asking random folks on the internet.

Honestly, asking on OF doesn't look like "asking random folks on the internet" to me, just wondering if someone here had measured a dial of a seamaster 166.002 before.
But yeah, it's better doing that myself, agree with you on that.
Thank you.
 
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Dial if for your caliber family should fit the movement. Problem is, it may not fit the case. Various cases using the same movements, but different dials. Some had edge lips. Some smooth. Some had more curve etc.

Could go down a rabbit hole buying dials and none of them work and that replacement is in poor condition

Your dial most likely was refinished and company or watch maker added the luminous. You could try another watch maker and see if he can remove the luminous, but some are kind of blobby, so I really don't see that turning out well.

Other choice is to refinish it again and state no luminous on dial
 
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Just adding to your post on plating.

Once you start replacing everything. It's no longer your grandfathers watch. Just a mess of different parts thrown together to make a watch

The watch as it stands is what your grandfather wore. Best thing to do is refinish the dial and leave the rest as is.
 
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Honestly, asking on OF doesn't look like "asking random folks on the internet" to me, just wondering if someone here had measured a dial of a seamaster 166.002 before.
But yeah, it's better doing that myself, agree with you on that.
Thank you.

I would be really skeptical of answers I got to such a detailed and technical question. I understand the urge to save effort and get immediate gratification, but IMO, some things just really should be done hands-on, not over the internet.
 
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Thank you @DON for pointing out a possible case issue, I didn't think about it.
Actually, my watchmaker is quite good at lume related jobs, that could be an alternative way.
 
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I would be really skeptical of answers I got to such a detailed and technical question. I understand the urge to save effort and get immediate gratification, but IMO, some things just really should be done hands-on, not over the internet.

Yes, I get your point, I appreciate the advice, thanks.