I found a supposedly decent one in a local watch forum.

Thanks! Always learning...

Probably trying my luck on this plan. I will sleep on it for a few days before committing to it.



Do you think the wear (rust?) on the back of the case is a big issue? Is it fixable?

 

The movement is severely rusted. Unless you can find a full replacement movement in good condition, don't bother. The gold filled case is also rusty and not really repairable for a reasonable sum. While this is a desirable model, you may end up with a project watch for a long time.

Be patient and you'll find a good watch for reasonable cost.

 

Patience and a lot of research is key.

 

Thanks man.

I am examining every single option from our Ebay equivalent. I have just found this one with beautiful movement and what seems to be an acceptable case, but I don't know what to think about the dial. The font always puts me in doubt.

 

The reason it looks different to genuine earlier fonts and rather too modern is because it is. That watch is from circa 1980 so rather newer than most on here get excited over. Read up on movements. The 1000/1010/1020/1030 series are not what I would call beautiful vs those they replaced. If you are looking at a bland 80s (quartz crisis) piece, you may as well go newer and get something ETA powered and reliable.

 

padders, I get your point.
Unfortunately I did not find any newer ETA powered watch that fits my budget.

Still interested in knowing if it is a redial though.

 

No I don't think it is a redial, there is something going on between 1 and 2 which needs investigating, maybe dirt on the dial or a cracked crystal. The day and date wheels seem to be slightly different colours meaning one may have been replaced.

The main problem is that model is not particularly desirable and may cost more to service than it is worth. If you like it and intend to keep it then that is fine, but if you need to flip it down the line, you may find it has cost a lot and you would have lost less on a model with a larger fan base. I don't speak purely from idle prejudice, I had a late 1970s 1010 movement model just like that. If its cheap enough then it may work for you, but cheap enough would need to be like $200/£150 or less to minimise your losses once the inevitable service cost is factored in. Watch B, the 2576 in your original post for instance, was a much better buy at $300 than this at similar money IMO.

 

It looks like there is mould or water damage on parts of the 1020's dial edge. As per @padders, this model is neither rare nor sought-after and anything less than an excellent example is not worth getting. We all know and understand the feeling of having just discovered vintage Omega and wanting to own a nice one NOW, but you are looking at wildly different examples and I respectfully suggest taking a step back to at least decide which style suits you best before going any further.

 

I agree with the recommendation for patience. Keep in mind that educating yourself and hunting are both enjoyable pursuits. And to badly paraphrase something I read on this board “buying the watch is the beginning of something, but also the end.” Don’t rush the process; any important life decision deserves patience, and in this case the hunt is half the fun.

 

For the asked price, watch B is a very good one to start your vintage life. I would've bought it already. Of course it isn't a perfect collection grade piece but if it were price would be much higher and you are looking for inexpensive options.

All other options are "monstruosities" one way or another.

 

Thanks @padders and @Edward53 for the input. I passed that Seamaster.

Well... That seems like a much reasonable piece of advice my confirmation bias is urging me to take.