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  1. Submerged Jul 23, 2013

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    I purchased this watch spontaneously for about $200, but it appears to be a unishell design. I can't seem to remove the movement to determine the caliber. Any help identifying / removing the movement would be very much appreciated!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. ulackfocus Jul 23, 2013

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    Welcome!

    It can't be a unishell front loading watch. The caseback is different metal than the case sides. It's a pop off, but must be stuck.
     
  3. Submerged Jul 23, 2013

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    Is it possible that it's front loading but the case back is a different material? There's no notch to stick my bergeon case opener in to open it.

    Thanks for your help! :)
     
  4. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jul 23, 2013

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    I've never seen one like that. Not even how sure Omega would make a front loading case with two metals.

    The case back is just on very tight. I can see the seam in your second picture.
    gatorcpa
     
  5. ulackfocus Jul 23, 2013

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    Possible? Anything is possible, but it's so unlikely that I'd never bet on it no matter how high odds I was given. I've never seen one, and neither has the InvestiGator as he mentioned above. Front loading cases didn't come around until near 1960 AFAIK, and not offered in two tone.
     
  6. X350 XJR Vintage Omega Aficionado Jul 23, 2013

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    Looks like a snap back to me too.

    They can be very tight from many years of accumulated gunk!
     
  7. JimInOz Melbourne Australia Jul 24, 2013

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    As the gurus have picked up on, it's a snapper.

    WARNING!
    If you are technically inept or have Homer Simpson coordination, read no further, take it to a trusted watchmaker.

    1. Remove the bracelet first.
    2. Get a small block of soft wood and drill a 10mm hole big enough to sit the crown in.
    3. Hold the watch upright on the wood with your left hand with the crown in the hole.
    4. Use a Gem razor blade and gently insert it into the seam opposite the crown.
    5. Use a gentle seesaw movement to work the blade into the seam and slowly move around the top part of the case.
    6. When you see a gap opening, get a case knife or even a fine table knife and continue to work the gap.

    It should start to open from the top side and you can use a thicker blade to pop it off.

    Good Luck with it.

    Cheers
    Jim
     
  8. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jul 24, 2013

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    I'll just add one more thing - DON'T PRY....ever....

    Sorry....pet peeve of mine is cases hacked up by people prying the case backs off...

    Cheers, Al
     
  9. Submerged Jul 24, 2013

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    Thanks for the help everyone. I will try the gem razor idea...

    "Don't pry....ever...."

    this thing's really really on there, going to be tough, but I certainly have the tools and finesse. I service all my other omega's with screw backs

    The movement almost sounds like it's loose in this case, though. I almost feel as though it's not an authentic case. I am eager to get the back off to see what the movement is.

    The case back has a ton of scratches already from someone who tried to pry it off and slipped. What's the best way to smooth these out? I've seen professional watch makers, use a grinder. Can someone give me some more insight into these types of procedures?

    Again, thanks so much! Very helpful!

    Also, it should be noted that the crystal DOES pop off this -- quite easily in, fact. There's a gold bezel attached to the crystal and it just pops right on. Does this sound weird to anyone? That's why it seems the case is not an original. It doesn't seem consistent with Omega quality
     
  10. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jul 24, 2013

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    It does not matter how tight it's on, prying is not necessary to remove a snap on case back like this. You use a thin blade (backed razor blade is a good place to start) and the then work that in, and around the case. Increase the thickness of the blades as the crack opens up, and eventually it will pop off. Most people are too impatient to do it properly, so they jam a blade in and pry as soon as they can, and cause damage to the case.

    For removing scratches, I'm not sure what you mean by a "grinder" but on steel I would likely start with either a hard felt wheel with stainless compound, or an Artifex wheel, on my polishing station to remove the heavy damage, then polish with finer abrasives and muslin buffs as normal.

    Cheers, Al
     
  11. Submerged Jul 24, 2013

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    I meant a machine as in grinder haha with interchangeable wheels

    Not something like this haha [​IMG]

    Thanks for the help Al :)
     
  12. citizenrich Metal Mixer! Jul 24, 2013

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    The dissimilar metals probably glued (froze) themselves together.
     
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  13. UncleBuck understands the decision making hierarchy Dec 10, 2015

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    Quadrophenic Schizophrenia
     
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