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Ferik
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does anyone have any information about this model?
Help ID “1937 Art Deco” Omega pocketwatch
does anyone have any information about this model?
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DaveK
·If one is to believe the inter webs, the serial number dates it to circa 1923. I think it looks badass, your project doesn’t involve explosives or steampunk does it?
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OMEGuy
·This watch looks like a very well preserved family heirloom... Incredible clean condition in and out.
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Dan S
·If one is to believe the inter webs, the serial number dates it to circa 1923. I think it looks badass, your project doesn’t involve explosives or steampunk does it?
Perhaps I'm reading it wrong, but I am seeing 8.6M on the movement and 8.8M on the case, which is probably early-30s, or maybe closer to the middle of the decade. You need to be careful reading those charts as well, since the standard ones have some notorious typos, where years are transposed from line to line.
This PW is not only authentic, but in very nice condition, and should not be part of any project that involves modification.
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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaWow, you have a very nice watch. I agree with @Dan S , I would date the watch to around 1930 or so.
It shares many design cues with 1930s models such as Etairos, Lampros and Fengos which were primarily for the Italian market.
Movement is a 37.5 L 15P which was introduced in 1928 and later became the 140, 141,142, 143 series so if you need parts then look for them as well. Dial is original, standard Arabic markers and blued steel Plume hands. Is it missing the case screws or is the movement held in from the front?
I'm sure our resident "Queen of Art Deco" (@Syrte) would definitely approve.
It shares many design cues with 1930s models such as Etairos, Lampros and Fengos which were primarily for the Italian market.
Movement is a 37.5 L 15P which was introduced in 1928 and later became the 140, 141,142, 143 series so if you need parts then look for them as well. Dial is original, standard Arabic markers and blued steel Plume hands. Is it missing the case screws or is the movement held in from the front?
I'm sure our resident "Queen of Art Deco" (@Syrte) would definitely approve.
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OMTOM
·Hi Erik,
Good to see that you’re still ticking.
Aren’t these pocket watches lovely? It comes from a wonderful period for Omega (and others).
I think the movement is a 37.6L (which started life in 1928). The movement is very similar to the 37.5L apart from the thickness (the 37.6 was 4.95 mm thick, the 37.5 was 3.75 m). The 37.5L started life in 1931 (also with 17 jewels) - and a 15-jewel version arrived as the T1 in 1940.
From the numbers, I would guess that this dates about 1933. The title of your thread shows 1937 - maybe you know more than we do?
For all these pocket watches in the 1930s (not just 37.5 and 37.6 but also the 35M, 38M, 40.6 etc), there were many varieties of cases, bows, dials - and the case material varied from stainless steel (as here) through silver to gold. Some beautiful examples.
In summary Erik, I think your watch is a calibre 37.6 (possibly 37.5) dating from about 1933.
Good to see that you’re still ticking.
Aren’t these pocket watches lovely? It comes from a wonderful period for Omega (and others).
I think the movement is a 37.6L (which started life in 1928). The movement is very similar to the 37.5L apart from the thickness (the 37.6 was 4.95 mm thick, the 37.5 was 3.75 m). The 37.5L started life in 1931 (also with 17 jewels) - and a 15-jewel version arrived as the T1 in 1940.
From the numbers, I would guess that this dates about 1933. The title of your thread shows 1937 - maybe you know more than we do?
For all these pocket watches in the 1930s (not just 37.5 and 37.6 but also the 35M, 38M, 40.6 etc), there were many varieties of cases, bows, dials - and the case material varied from stainless steel (as here) through silver to gold. Some beautiful examples.
In summary Erik, I think your watch is a calibre 37.6 (possibly 37.5) dating from about 1933.
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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaEdit
Was meant to be a PM. Better have another coffee.
Was meant to be a PM. Better have another coffee.
Edited:
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DaveK
·Perhaps I'm reading it wrong, but I am seeing 8.6M on the movement and 8.8M on the case, which is probably early-30s, or maybe closer to the middle of the decade. You need to be careful reading those charts as well, since the standard ones have some notorious typos, where years are transposed from line to line.
This PW is not only authentic, but in very nice condition, and should not be part of any project that involves modification.
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OMTOM
·Jim’s post was a PM to me to point out that you can actually see the end of the 37.5L marked under the balance! He was too polite to correct me on the thread.
Well done Jim: quite right, it must be a 37.5L. I think we’re agreed on the other details.
Hope that helps Erik.
Well done Jim: quite right, it must be a 37.5L. I think we’re agreed on the other details.
Hope that helps Erik.
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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaJim’s post was a PM to me to point out that you can actually see the end of the 37.5L marked under the balance! He was too polite to correct me on the thread.
Well done Jim: quite right, it must be a 37.5L. I think we’re agreed on the other details.
Hope that helps Erik.
Aw shucks 😟.
I think discussions about differences over anything are best done face to face.
Be it in a sales post, or a query about the actual tiny bit of minutia that only our confirmed WIS group understand.
That's why I like this place.
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Ferik
·So very helpful, all. These are the photos and title from eBay so I don’t know much more. The watch looks exactly as advertise though I have yet to open it. How do you open those? With a rubber ball?
i am glad I did well, it’s lovely. The project doesn’t involve doing anything to the watch, only designing, 3D printing and painting/staining a pocketwatch stand for my desk.
thanks again, all.
i am glad I did well, it’s lovely. The project doesn’t involve doing anything to the watch, only designing, 3D printing and painting/staining a pocketwatch stand for my desk.
thanks again, all.
Edited:
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Dan S
·The case-back will pop off using a case knife. If you look at your photo of the inside of the case-back, you can see the indentation at the upper left of the photo. When the back is on the watch, this will appear as a small opening into which you can insert a small blade. Using a magnifier, look at the seam between the case-back and the case all around the watch, and hopefully you will see it.
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Ferik
·I’ll try that. FYI, it’s about 48mm in diameter
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Darko
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DON
·Always better to start a new thread rather than dig up an old one.
I would check Ebays completed auctions. You can also check auctions from various companies such as Christies and Sothebys on completed sales
