Help deciding in my first vintage watch

SMM · Jun 24, 2025

Hello gentlemen,

It seems I've caught the bug and now I am on my way trying to find my first vintage watch and hopefully not last.

I've been reading quite a bit around, including on this forum and I would like to take the opportunity to thank all of you for sharing your knowledge, expertise and help for all of us noobs who are starting this journey.

With all the research I've done for the past couple of months I've realised my eye is still untrained as I've not seen any vintage watch in person so I would need some help in deciding the first watch I would like to buy and therefore I've decided to ask for your assistance in order to make the best choice possible and to avoid overpaying for a watch that's not worth the money.

The first thing I've decided upon was that the watch should be gold as I really like the way it looks and I also see it as a long time investment. I could maybe be persuaded into a gold capped one but definitely not stainless steel or gold plated, at least not for now. I'm not really looking for something I could wear daily as I am a very active kind of guy and I am quite hard on my watches and it would be a pity to have such a beautiful piece destroyed by a neanderthal like me.

The second thing I've decided on is that the dial should be white. It could be silverfish or maybe champagne but definitely not gold. It would be a bit too vintage for me. I'm not into the "pie pan" models either, for some strange, unknown reason I like them simple. I'm not a big fan of numerals on the dial either so simple lines or a 'shark tooth' would be great.

In the beginning i didn't care at all if the watch was heavily polished (didn't even know the difference), or not, I just wanted it to look nice with no scratches etc. but then I've stumbled upon this forum so obviously my ideas have started to change and my search became more difficult as the prices started going higher and higher (initially I thought 1000 USD would be more than enough for what I wanted and was willing to spend, then 2000 and now I find myself looking at 3000 USD watches).

To cut the story short, bellow I've posted a link to what my perfect watch would look like. Model, shape, cal., etc. Apart from the colour if the strap everything about this watch is exactly what I've been looking for but the watch is a bit more than what I am willing to pay at moment. I've not really seen a lot of them that would meet my standards so if this is the one to be then I might as well spend the extra money and pull the trigger on it. Or maybe I should find one that would require extra care and servicing, even though that would be extra hassle for me trying to find a shop that would be able to do that, research their work etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2745168869...7ERCQH&hash=item3fea7b4585:g:ajMAAOSwPLhfdkez

As I realise we can't always get what we want and some sort of compromise must be made I will post bellow a few other links with other watches I would be interested in as a second choice (in no particular order).

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/seamaster-14770-18k-gold--1961--id37112270.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/vintage-14k-solid-gold-dress-watch--id40224214.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-constellation--id41050952.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...c---ref166001---cal562---1966--id41011643.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/seamaster-automatic--id40834928.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/const...oversize-14778-61sc-from-1961--id39379386.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...a-certificate-of-the-archives--id40212377.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...solid-gold-1963s-135020-sc-62--id34785776.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/seamaster-14770-18k-gold--1961--id37112270.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...solid-yellow-gold-34mm---1950--id39561100.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...automatic-watch-1960s-cal-561--id40164331.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/const...ect-condition-mint-ref-168004--id40516112.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-seamaster-de-ville-linen-dial--id40515854.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-seamaster-deville--id40515988.htm
https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-constellation--id40851712.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...-seamaster-automatic-de-ville--id38827422.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/geneve--id31064268.htm

I think this pretty much covers all the watches I've been looking at but if you have any other suggestions please feel free to post them and I will be more than happy to read your suggestions and advice.

I realise this type of thread must already be boring to read again and again for most of you but I would like to tank you all for taking the time to have a look at this and all of your suggestions and advice.

peterkirk01 · Jun 24, 2025

Much better if you post actual photos rather than links.

SMM · Jun 24, 2025

peterkirk01
Much better if you post actual photos rather than links.

Thought it would be too many of them to be posted and easier with the links. I will upload the photos as well.

Thank you

SOG53 · Jun 24, 2025

Welcome to OF
It looks like you are focused on a particular style, but if you’re considering 18 watches you’re not yet ready.
Showing so many options and asking for comments is a bit much- I suggest you narrow down your preference to 1 or 2 references and research those in detail to learn as much as possible about how they should look, how to determine originality etc. do you want constellation or Seamaster? Budget?
Take some more time to refine your taste and come back with couple of watches, not 18.
Lots of info here for research the advanced search function is very good.

Davidt · Jun 24, 2025

Agree. People are more than happy to help but we’re not going to assess such a large number of watches for you. I’d recommend cutting it down to 2 (3 at a push), posting a couple of pictures of each and giving an overview of what you like about each and what your concerns are.

Peemacgee · Jun 24, 2025

welcome to the fray @SMM

There are a lot of us prefer the elegant simplicity of a dome dial Omega - so you are in good company.

I'm going to echo the advice above and suggest you focus on a particular reference and style - and post only a couple of watches and with photos.

However, I'll pick one of the links you posted - the gold capped 168.004 - a potentially good choice, but not this one.
The advert says mint when in fact its one of the most over-polished examples I've seen in a long time and at £1744 / $2374 is so outrageously overpriced that it is offensive.

All this means is that you need to learn about what you are looking at so that you're not considering rubbish where the seller is trying to take your eyes out.

for reference- the heavily polished 'mint' 168.004

Fallout Boy · Jun 24, 2025

Hello and welcome! Support @Davidt . Give us up to five ideas and -> include the prices in $$ or €€.
And b) there is a big difference buying private or via dealer (return). And c) don t forget possible taxes.

I guess, you can meet someone of OF if you let us know your location.

good luck!

SOG53 · Jun 24, 2025

Some References that may help:

The source for all things Constellation:

http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/?m=1

Browse OF members vintage Constellations:

https://omegaforums.net/posts/2496362/

rudiculous · Jun 24, 2025

Electronic C-Shape Connie!

DaveK · Jun 24, 2025

This is a great thread that might be helpful for you https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603/

Dan S · Jun 24, 2025

Gold and daily wear for rough use … not a viable combination. Gold-capped has little gold, so not an investment in the sense that you probably mean. I’d suggest rethinking these aspects. If you want a gold watch because of the way it looks, that’s great. But recognize that the metal is soft and easily damaged by rough use.

SMM · Jun 24, 2025

Thank you all for your advice. It is greatly appreciated and a good opportunity for me to learn more.

Man, this is a difficult disease to have and I was hoping to avoid it as much as possible but you people are dragging me down to it's depths 😀)).

I've tried to edit my first post but the option is not available so I'll post the photos in this one (minus some ones that I want to rule out).

I know it was a long shot/ask and I will try to explain why my decision is made so difficult by my lack of knowledge and why I am going back in forth between different models. By now I can distinguish a bit between a polished watch or a painted dial but the biggest problem I have is that I cannot asses if the price asked is a fair one. As I am not a collector I don't mind if the watch has been polished a bit or if the glass has been replaced or not and price points are very confusing to me. I don't understand how a gold capped can be the same price as a full 18k gold watch, both of them in a condition that looks very similar to me especially when one is a seamaster and the other a constellation. (from my research I understand deville --> seamaster --> constellation is the order of the original price points, movements etc. with deville being at lower end of the spectrum and therefore it should be cheaper now and not in the same range price as a constellation (that I understand have a superior movement), when both are, let's say 18k gold case with similar dial). 🤯

My absolute choice would be the first link, this constellation chronometer cross-hair dial 14k solid gold, ref. 168.005, cal. 564.
The watch has been serviced and the dial has a slight patina so it makes me think it hasn't been repainted. From my little experience it seems the crown has been replaced and the case has also been polished at some point but nothing I am worried about or couldn't live with.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2745168869...7ERCQH&hash=item3fea7b4585:g:ajMAAOSwPLhfdkez

What I wanted to know is if the $3,480.00 the guy is asking for this watch is worth paying or not.

And now to make the example of why the prices are so confusing to me.

A second choice would be this Constellation gold capped, Reference Number: 14393, cal. 561, with a very clean looking dial, new crown and a polished case that I don't mind. Asked price is $3,582.

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-constellation--id41050952.htm

Please help me understand how can an inferior watch, the second one from my perspective, can have a similar price to the first. The second watch comes with a new omega box that you can get for max 100 usd, is gold capped not full gold and older caliber to name a few things. 🤯

I just wanted a watch why on earth is this so difficult, it's giving me brain cancer. 😂

SMM
Hello gentlemen,

It seems I've caught the bug and now I am on my way trying to find my first vintage watch and hopefully not last.

I've been reading quite a bit around, including on this forum and I would like to take the opportunity to thank all of you for sharing your knowledge, expertise and help for all of us noobs who are starting this journey.

With all the research I've done for the past couple of months I've realised my eye is still untrained as I've not seen any vintage watch in person so I would need some help in deciding the first watch I would like to buy and therefore I've decided to ask for your assistance in order to make the best choice possible and to avoid overpaying for a watch that's not worth the money.

The first thing I've decided upon was that the watch should be gold as I really like the way it looks and I also see it as a long time investment. I could maybe be persuaded into a gold capped one but definitely not stainless steel or gold plated, at least not for now. I'm not really looking for something I could wear daily as I am a very active kind of guy and I am quite hard on my watches and it would be a pity to have such a beautiful piece destroyed by a neanderthal like me.

The second thing I've decided on is that the dial should be white. It could be silverfish or maybe champagne but definitely not gold. It would be a bit too vintage for me. I'm not into the "pie pan" models either, for some strange, unknown reason I like them simple. I'm not a big fan of numerals on the dial either so simple lines or a 'shark tooth' would be great.

In the beginning i didn't care at all if the watch was heavily polished (didn't even know the difference), or not, I just wanted it to look nice with no scratches etc. but then I've stumbled upon this forum so obviously my ideas have started to change and my search became more difficult as the prices started going higher and higher (initially I thought 1000 USD would be more than enough for what I wanted and was willing to spend, then 2000 and now I find myself looking at 3000 USD watches).

To cut the story short, bellow I've posted a link to what my perfect watch would look like. Model, shape, cal., etc. Apart from the colour if the strap everything about this watch is exactly what I've been looking for but the watch is a bit more than what I am willing to pay at moment. I've not really seen a lot of them that would meet my standards so if this is the one to be then I might as well spend the extra money and pull the trigger on it. Or maybe I should find one that would require extra care and servicing, even though that would be extra hassle for me trying to find a shop that would be able to do that, research their work etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2745168869...7ERCQH&hash=item3fea7b4585:g:ajMAAOSwPLhfdkez

As I realise we can't always get what we want and some sort of compromise must be made I will post bellow a few other links with other watches I would be interested in as a second choice (in no particular order).

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/seamaster-14770-18k-gold--1961--id37112270.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/vintage-14k-solid-gold-dress-watch--id40224214.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-constellation--id41050952.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...c---ref166001---cal562---1966--id41011643.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/seamaster-automatic--id40834928.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/const...oversize-14778-61sc-from-1961--id39379386.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...a-certificate-of-the-archives--id40212377.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...solid-gold-1963s-135020-sc-62--id34785776.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/seamaster-14770-18k-gold--1961--id37112270.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...solid-yellow-gold-34mm---1950--id39561100.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...automatic-watch-1960s-cal-561--id40164331.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/const...ect-condition-mint-ref-168004--id40516112.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-seamaster-de-ville-linen-dial--id40515854.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-seamaster-deville--id40515988.htm
https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega-constellation--id40851712.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/omega...-seamaster-automatic-de-ville--id38827422.htm

https://www.chrono24.ph/omega/geneve--id31064268.htm

I think this pretty much covers all the watches I've been looking at but if you have any other suggestions please feel free to post them and I will be more than happy to read your suggestions and advice.

I realise this type of thread must already be boring to read again and again for most of you but I would like to tank you all for taking the time to have a look at this and all of your suggestions and advice.

SMM · Jun 24, 2025

Dan S
Gold and daily wear for rough use … not a viable combination. Gold-capped has little gold, so not an investment in the sense that you probably mean. I’d suggest rethinking these aspects. If you want a gold watch because of the way it looks, that’s great. But recognize that the metal is soft and easily damaged by rough use.

I specifically said I don't want a watch for daily use and I know the metal is a soft one.

DaveK
This is a great thread that might be helpful for you https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603/

Thank you very much, I have missed this great thread.

SOG53
Some References that may help:

The source for all things Constellation:

http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/?m=1

Browse OF members vintage Constellations:

https://omegaforums.net/posts/2496362/

rudiculous · Jun 24, 2025

Electronic C-Shape Connie!

Thank you, I've already gone through a great deal of posts on this blog already. Thank god for people like this guy and his knowledge.

SOG53
Welcome to OF
It looks like you are focused on a particular style, but if you’re considering 18 watches you’re not yet ready.
Showing so many options and asking for comments is a bit much- I suggest you narrow down your preference to 1 or 2 references and research those in detail to learn as much as possible about how they should look, how to determine originality etc. do you want constellation or Seamaster? Budget?
Take some more time to refine your taste and come back with couple of watches, not 18.
Lots of info here for research the advanced search function is very good.

I would have a budget of around 3000 USD but we all know if the watch is right it can go higher.
I really like the constellation calendar, the shape of it just talks to me but if I can't find the one I am looking for I wouldn't say no to a Seamaster either, I am just not willing to pay as much as I would for a Constellation and definitely wouldn't go above my budget (maybe even a bit lower 250USD, let's say).

Davidt · Jun 24, 2025

The first watch looks far too polished to me.

Just to give my view on certain points.

1. Gold cap is absolutely not the same value as solid 18ct gold. Gold cap is equal to or slightly less than steel.
2. I wouldn’t say a Seamaster DeVille is less valuable than a Seamaster in fact, Devilles are very popular and a DeVille 166.020 for example is generally slightly more expensive than a Seamaster 166.002.
When you get into later 70’s non Seamaster Devilles I agree, they’re slightly less valuable than a Seamaster.

I’d add that you really need to pin it down to a couple of references that you’re looking at. If you’re still considering a wide spread of references you’re going to tie yourself in knots deciding on a watch

Peemacgee · Jun 24, 2025

Other than intrinsic value (which is a problem at the minute) a vintage watch value is based on condition- hence all the talk about polished cases.

What you do and don’t mind in terms of condition only affects what you are willing to pay - not whether an asking price is reasonable or not.

unscrupulous dealers price sub standard watches at ‘collectors grade’ prices ( and above)

The dogleg is over polished and so, too expensive.
The gold cap 14393 is way more than twice its market value.

Hope that helps.

(A good tip would be to steer away from Chrono 24. )

Dan S · Jun 24, 2025

For a gold dress watch, I would be considering brands other than Omega. To be fair, I'm not a big fan of gold watches in general, but I tend to like rose/pink more than yellow, and deep yellow more than pale yellow. Finding rose/pink gold Omega watches is a real challenge. The color of gold in IWC and UG watches is so nice.

SOG53 · Jun 24, 2025

Not sure if you are aware of the two sales threads here-

Private Watch Sales is where OF members offer watches FS ususally with good accurate info and disclosures, usually at non-dealer "collector" prices. Sellers must have a minimum 200 posts and be approved to sell, and all sales posts are reviewed.

Watches for Sale is where OF approved dealers offer watches for sale. While I am not sure exactly what the vetting process is, they are considered reasonable/approved dealers by OF.

You may already know this, but a surprising number of new OF members are not aware. You can direct message any seller and purchase watch from either as a new member.

You will find good watch listings here and at more reasonable prices than Chrono24, and less uncertainty than EB. I just noticed a very clean Longines crosshair 14k dress watch on the Private Sales thread well within your budget- you may wish to have a look.

There is also the "Recommended Omega Watch listings on Ebay" at the top of the Vintage section, which is focused for new OF members like yourself where vetted Ebay listings are presented. Many new OF members buy there first watch using that thread.

Just dont rush, take your time and ask before buying , members will gladly help. Enjoy the hunt.

Fallout Boy · Jun 24, 2025

Peemacgee
(A good tip would be to steer away from Chrono 24. )

Interesting..... Your experience???

Peemacgee · Jun 25, 2025

Fallout Boy
Interesting..... Your experience???

Peemacgee
unscrupulous dealers price sub standard watches at ‘collectors grade’ prices ( and above).

The gold cap 14393 is way more than twice its market value.

I think I justified my statement with these lines.

Someone who is new to the game could easily be fleeced by some dealers on Chrono 24.

Fortunately, the OP came to OF for advice before buying a pig in a poke.

Davidt · Jun 25, 2025

Peemacgee
I think I justified my statement with these lines.

Someone who is new to the game could easily be fleeced by some dealers on Chrono 24.

Fortunately, the OP came to OF for advice before buying a pig in a poke.

I’d agree with this. Although I browse occasionally, in 13 years buying vintage watches I haven’t bought a single one from C24

Fallout Boy · Jun 25, 2025

It is the dealer (seller) who -if at all- cheats or is inaccurate. Not C24. C24 simply mediates. And this does not exempt the buyer from researching and informing themselves. Bought three times with C24 - everything is great!

Help deciding in my first vintage watch

SMM

peterkirk01

SMM

SOG53

Davidt

Peemacgee

Fallout Boy

SOG53

DaveK

Dan S

SMM

SMM

Davidt

Peemacgee

Dan S

SOG53

Fallout Boy

Peemacgee

Davidt

Fallout Boy

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