Has anyone used this to remove a Speedmaster bezel?

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I’m told this is not the tool Omega uses nor recommends for this, which has a plastic wedge, minimizing the possibly of case damage. That being said: has anyone used this widely available Horotec tool, at about $300 USD, versus the similarly-looking one on eBay about $50? Thanks.

 
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The metal parts fill me with dread at what they could do the a bezel or case, particularly in untrained hands.
 
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The metal parts fill me with dread at what they could do the a bezel or case, particularly in untrained hands.

Untrained hands would be the problem. If you know what you are doing it shouldn’t be a problem.
 
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I have used that tool to remove different types of bezels, where there is an indentation between the bezel and mid-case. It works very well there because pressing the sharp edge into the indentation pries off the bezel. Maybe I just don't know how to use it correctly, but it doesn't seem to lend itself to the Speedmaster bezel for me. However, fortunately the Speedmaster bezel just pops off so easily, it doesn't really matter.
 
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You could save some money and use a poker chip like @Spacefruit

The problem here is that the movement is out of the case. Not sure okay to do with movement in. Another issue…
 
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Untrained hands would be the problem. If you know what you are doing it shouldn’t be a problem.

Doesn’t look quite as refined as your similar tool, though.
 
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Would one want to lubricate the teeth with a light oil, to decrease friction?
 
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The problem here is that the movement is out of the case. Not sure okay to do with movement in. Another issue…

I’ve swapped a number of bezels without removing the movement. In my experience only a light sharp tap is required.
 
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I'm as hands-on as the next guy, but something about removing bezels makes me think, nope, time to see the watchmaker.
 
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I've used that same tool by Horotec, but I prefer the casino chip method more. Works a lot better for me. Once I didn't have a chip laying around and used a metal disc, huge mistake.
 
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I made that video years ago, when I lived in Bangkok and there was no one local I trusted to do this, and my choice was do it myself, or wait several months until I got to UK.

Why would an amateur need to remove a bezel? Spoiler alert - you don't. I liked to do it, so I could thoroughly clean the watch - I would strip the case parts down as far as I could go, including the pushers, and clean it all. This was about fifteen years ago when I found a lot of privately owned watches that my wife would label a biohazard.

I am not a watchmaker, just an enthusiastic amateur who has assessed the financial risks of my actions and ready to accept consequences, - which is why I now send any valuable bezel work away. That said, for service bezels or special bezels, or low quality bezels, it is fun to mess about.

Regarding the poker chip method. The tapping I use is very gentle. It is about finding the right angle and getting the chip right in the corner between the case and bezel. The poker chip is a deliberate choice, for its shock absorbing qualities it is a hard plastic, but it changes the nature of the energy transmission, and prevents scratching of the case or bezel.

I will attempt it myself if the bezel or watch is not pristine, but I am also ready to walk away and send it to Simon Freese if it does not release after a couple of taps.

To be honest, nowadays, it is rare I find myself needing to do this on a fine watch. However, if I am working on one of my less valuable specials, I am happy to change bezels.

As a comparison, Simon uses a watch knife and a cloth, and a simple twisting motion that still to this day I cannot see how he does it. Like a magician.

I have also learned that there is a minor variation in bezel size, and case size. Sometimes a bezel will not go on without "adjustment". In other situations, the bezel is too large, and it will not hold. This also requires adjustment that is outside my knowledge.

Ideally, when refitting a bezel, I hope for a click when I push the bezel on. The most important thing is that if after about four attempts (and strictly for me, four attempts) it does not go on, I send it to Simon. I have also had a bezel come off, then after I have cleaned everything, it will not re fit. Off to Simon.

The key, for me, is knowing my limits, and understanding the downside. I no longer need to take any risks removing or refitting bezels, as I am in the same country as a watchmaker. So I now stick to my specials or removing incorrect bezels.

If it is not easy, I stop, and call in the expert.



In the above picture is the press I use. It is important to find the right size die, or you will be pushing on the crystal, not the bezel. You will see I have marked it so that this idiot does not use the wrong one, or the wrong way round.

It has never ceases to amaze me how I can mess up what I thought was an easy, straightforward operation. So I try to minimize the risks, by either sticking to low value parts or giving it to someone else.

I have never seen how I can use the four bladed bezel tool without causing damage. (I am sure a reflection on me, not the tool).

All the watches pictured above are specials, and so the downside in playing around is minimal.

A fine DO90 bezel does not warrant the risk of me removing it or fitting it.
 
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I made that video years ago, when I lived in Bangkok and there was no one local I trusted to do this, and my choice was do it myself, or wait several months until I got to UK.

Why would an amateur need to remove a bezel? Spoiler alert - you don't. I liked to do it, so I could thoroughly clean the watch - I would strip the case parts down as far as I could go, including the pushers, and clean it all. This was about fifteen years ago when I found a lot of privately owned watches that my wife would label a biohazard.

I am not a watchmaker, just an enthusiastic amateur who has assessed the financial risks of my actions and ready to accept consequences, - which is why I now send any valuable bezel work away. That said, for service bezels or special bezels, or low quality bezels, it is fun to mess about.

Regarding the poker chip method. The tapping I use is very gentle. It is about finding the right angle and getting the chip right in the corner between the case and bezel. The poker chip is a deliberate choice, for its shock absorbing qualities it is a hard plastic, but it changes the nature of the energy transmission, and prevents scratching of the case or bezel.

I will attempt it myself if the bezel or watch is not pristine, but I am also ready to walk away and send it to Simon Freese if it does not release after a couple of taps.

To be honest, nowadays, it is rare I find myself needing to do this on a fine watch. However, if I am working on one of my less valuable specials, I am happy to change bezels.

As a comparison, Simon uses a watch knife and a cloth, and a simple twisting motion that still to this day I cannot see how he does it. Like a magician.

I have also learned that there is a minor variation in bezel size, and case size. Sometimes a bezel will not go on without "adjustment". In other situations, the bezel is too large, and it will not hold. This also requires adjustment that is outside my knowledge.

Ideally, when refitting a bezel, I hope for a click when I push the bezel on. The most important thing is that if after about four attempts (and strictly for me, four attempts) it does not go on, I send it to Simon. I have also had a bezel come off, then after I have cleaned everything, it will not re fit. Off to Simon.

The key, for me, is knowing my limits, and understanding the downside. I no longer need to take any risks removing or refitting bezels, as I am in the same country as a watchmaker. So I now stick to my specials or removing incorrect bezels.

If it is not easy, I stop, and call in the expert.



In the above picture is the press I use. It is important to find the right size die, or you will be pushing on the crystal, not the bezel. You will see I have marked it so that this idiot does not use the wrong one, or the wrong way round.

It has never ceases to amaze me how I can mess up what I thought was an easy, straightforward operation. So I try to minimize the risks, by either sticking to low value parts or giving it to someone else.

I have never seen how I can use the four bladed bezel tool without causing damage. (I am sure a reflection on me, not the tool).

All the watches pictured above are specials, and so the downside in playing around is minimal.

A fine DO90 bezel does not warrant the risk of me removing it or fitting it.

Thanks kindly, William. It’s rare that a post is so thorough and complete, and anticipates all possible peripheral questions. I appreciate the time you took to respond.
 
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wouldn't every watchmaker be happy to assist? i would preferr this instead of possible scratching the bezel...
 
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wouldn't every watchmaker be happy to assist? i would preferr this instead of possible scratching the bezel...

The skill level varies, just like in any other profession. I’ve consulted three watchmakers: one does it with the four-prong tool, but has no press that fits; one uses a case knife, is reluctant to do so, but has the correct installation die; the third told me, “ I don’t do partial jobs; have a nice day.”
 
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hmm... yeah indeed the skill level varies, i had to experience that on ma panerai, the titanium case does not forgive touching it with steel 😉
 
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I actually don't have any poker chips, so I use one of the nylon dies that came with a press (as shown by @Spacefruit). Honestly, removing the bezel is trivial, and once you have done it you will feel that all the hand-wringing in this thread is a bit silly. As noted above, re-installing the bezel can be the tricky part.
 
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I actually don't have any poker chips, so I use one of the nylon dies that came with a press (as shown by @Spacefruit). Honestly, removing the bezel is trivial, and once you have done it you will feel that all the hand-wringing in this thread is a bit silly. As noted above, re-installing the bezel can be the tricky part.

I sincerely hope removing it is as “trivial” as you say, but it’s worth nothing that in excellent condition, these can be valued at around $4000, so knowing one’s limitations to avoid possible damage and devaluation, is s good thing to keep in mind.