Gold Rolex Submariner 1680/8 Black nipple dial - mid 70s

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Hi everyone,

I am looking to buy a 1974 gold submariner black with nipple dial. The serial number is 2,530,000 or so.

I presume all gold submariners from this era had the nipple dial and they all have plexiglass. I don't think that they have quick date function either. The caliber is 1570 (but technically it should be 1575 but Rolex stamped this era of watch with 1570) and is 26 jewels .

I am looking at chrono 24 and the values of these watches have shot up in value.

Is black dial from this era more rare than blue dial? Or is any gold submariner with a nipple dial worth more than a 90s version without the nipple dial?

I have a 1991 gold submariner and I love it. I like the blue and gold combination and I also like the Bluesy as a two-tone. I don't like the Blacksy as a two-tone but I do like the muted look of the pre-ceramic black and gold submariner.

What things do I need to look out for to make sure that the watch is authentic apart from matching the serial numbers to the papers etc. Is the gold bracelet from this era stamped with any particular numbering that I should look out for?

There is not much on the internet about this style of watch? How many Black Gold Nipple dial Submariners did Rolex ever make? Is this why they have shot up in value?

Any advice or pointers would be appreciated.
 
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Chrono24 asking prices are not a valid way to determine value. You will need to hunt down some auction sales, or just use your best judgement/experience. I don't think we can answer hypothetical questions, there is no short list of simple things to look for to judge authenticity, it requires knowledge and experience. But if you want to post photos and asking price of one specific watch you are considering, you might get some feedback. However, what you are shopping for is an obscure and unpopular model and if you aren't confident in your ability to authenticate a watch, perhaps you should contact a dealer and ask them to source it for you.
 
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Would definitely start looking local and work out from there. Jewelry shops are great as they always get trade-ins where someone might have inherited it and put it towards price of jewelry purchased..

Most reputable jewelry shops usually have contacts if you're looking for a particular watch, they can source it for you. They will make sure everything is good since their reputation is on the line and looking to establish a relationship for future business and referrals.
 
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Chrono24 asking prices are not a valid way to determine value. You will need to hunt down some auction sales, or just use your best judgement/experience. I don't think we can answer hypothetical questions, there is no short list of simple things to look for to judge authenticity, it requires knowledge and experience. But if you want to post photos and asking price of one specific watch you are considering, you might get some feedback. However, what you are shopping for is an obscure and unpopular model and if you aren't confident in your ability to authenticate a watch, perhaps you should contact a dealer and ask them to source it for you.
I am told that only 5000-6000 Gold 1680/8 Submariners were produced. People seem to go crazy over the stainless steel 1680 versions where most likely 100,000 were produced. I am trying to find a good investment piece that I can wear and which will appreciate.
 
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TBH those numbers are meaningless. Of course Rolex made very few gold Submariners. It’s a gold dive watch, come on, it’s ridiculous. For me, it’s hideous. It may appreciate or it may not, but it will never be easy to find a buyer. Personally I’d rather bet on a popular model than an unpopular model.

But there’s no accounting for taste, if you love the watch you should buy it. But not as an investment.

And if investment is your goal, you will need to be a very knowledgeable buyer to find a good one at a bargain price. Good investments are made at the buying stage. If you pay too much, you’re done.
 
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Maybe I am in the minority but I am a big fan of the nipple dial Subs and GMT’s. I have long thought that they have been undervalued but can’t speak to where the market is today. As Dan points out, there are a lot more buyers for steel Subs than for gold ones. Hard to know where they will go long term so thinking of a purchase as an investment may not be a great idea.
 
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I have about 18 pictures of the watch that I am looking at. Should I post them on here or start of new thread?
 
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There is no need for a new thread, IMO.
 
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Here are the photographs that I have been sent. The watch was purchased in 1974 but I think it was made in 1971, the serial number is 2,500,000. The watch probably needs a new crystal and the bracelet has stretch. Are there any glaring issues with the watch and band? Has it is polished? It has had 1 service in 1981 from the inside of the case back. I welcome people's critique. Thanks

 
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That is a badly abused example. What is the asking price?

The case is awful. Nubby crown guards, lugs completely misshapen, original finish totally gone, cratered lug holes, bezel ring also badly over polished. There are no brushed surfaces remaining at all on the case or bracelet. The bracelet is totally thrashed, stretched, polished, and bent. If you had to ask if it was polished, I would suggest using google to find some good examples to train your eye.

I imagine it would take a couple thousand minimum of laser welding and refinishing by an expert to fix the case, and another thousand or two to restore the bracelet. The bezel insert is also obviously not correct. You'd need to replace that. Needs a new bezel ring also (not cheap), and obviously a crystal. Plus whatever service/repairs are needed for the movement. There are severe signs of rotor rub inside the case-back, which is not surprising given how the watch was treated.

As it stands, it's not a watch for a collector, but assuming the dial is correct and original, it could be restored. In your place, I'd budget $8k-$10k to get it right.

That's just what jumped out at me immediately. The condition of the dial and handset looks decent at first glance, but I really don't know the nuances of the nipple dials well enough to tell you if it's correct. If you're seriously considering this watch, you really need to know if that dial is legit and correct, and you need to study it with that crystal out of the way. I think that might mean finding someone who is an expert in this reference. Paying a consultant might be a good approach.
Edited:
 
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This might be the worst gold bracelet I’ve ever seen.

My gawd…
 
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Wow. That is one terrible case and a worse bracelet. I wouldn’t look twice at that watch unless it was barely above gold price.

The cost, time and effort needed to make it acceptable will far outweigh its value
 
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Echoing the above - this one likely is not worth bothering with, and will always have too many issues to be a likely candidate for any store of value. I was looking for one of these recently, and if you want a half decent one it’s going to be in that 30k area ( a couple of good ones I was considering went for slightly above that). The Bob’s one does look fair, and you know there shouldn’t be any issues with it from that seller. Please post a few pics of your 1991 blue boy!