I have my vintage Datejust at a local watchmaker, who tells me he is positive the crystal is aftermarket. The problem, according to him, is that these are usually just a hair larger than OEM, and thus cause the gold bezel, which holds the crystal, to enlarge, or stretch ever so slightly.

Then, if you put back an original crystal, the enlarged bezel won't hold it well. He said there is a device both to tighten the bezel, and enlarge it as needed.

So my questions are: is bezel stretch really a thing, and are devices used to open or close these bezels an acceptable watchmaking method to alleviate the problem? Many thanks.

 

I’ve never run into that problem. Typically, if a generic crystal for a Rolex is larger than the original crystal you are unable to get the bezel on over the crystal. Had he tried the bezel on over the replacement genuine crystal, the result being it was a loose fit? Or was he guessing?

 

Thanks. Apparently, when I got the watch, someone had already fitted an aftermarket crystal, which is easy to tell from the profile, according to him. So he is theorizing that, before he starts mucking with it, the bezel will likely need closing down.

 

Short answer...yes.

 

Thanks. So there’s a longer answer as well?

 

No, that’s pretty much it.

 

I know that my watchmaker has a Rolex tool like this (and obviously it can be used on non-Rolex bezels), but I'm wondering if there also generic bezel adjusting tools made by third party manufacturers (e.g. Bergeon)? I'm just curious, since this doesn't seem to be something that every watchmaker has in his shop.

 

There are a number of ifs involved here.

-IF the crystal is generic.
-IF the bezel has stretched.
-IF the bezel is too loose when a genuine crystal is fitted.
-IF the bezel can be shrunk to permit a genuine crystal to be used.

Sounds like you live with the generic crystal, or approve the use of a genuine crystal, and shrink the bezel.

 

I would ask for pictures but.... maybe that’s rude?

 

This would be another reason for the OEM crystal replacement versus Generic.

“Told you so” = marked for future reference

 

Rolex Service Costs, developed by the same consultants that BMW used to come up with their charges.

 

I’m assuming you’re referring to the watch in question. Would be happy to, but it’s with the watchmaker, it’s an old one that I recently dug out with too much time on my hands, and the pics of it are on a Windows 95 computer that long ago crashed.