M'Bob
·Or doesn't matter one bit? What about hand-wind vs. auto?
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Is it considered safe to use the 'slight back-pressure on the stem method' to synchronize the seconds hand on a non-hacking vintage watch?
What I have been doing is adjusting the watch only when the mainspring is unwound or nearly unwound. The idea being to avoid stripping or damaging gears in the gear train. I haven't done this with the watch case open to verify that I am actually stopping the movement so there remains some doubt in my mind whether the practice may be damaging long-term.
I stop the seconds hand with a bit of back pressure on the stem while carefully avoiding allowing the seconds hand to run in reverse.
To date, over the course of a couple of years, I haven't ruined any watches while employing this method. 😉
But there is always a "first time" to avoid.
You do not want the watch to run backwards.
Does it really run in reverse, or just stall the movement? If it's truly running backwards, I'm not sure that's such a good idea.
Al,
Thank you for your response. I had you in mind as I was composing my question and describing my current method.
You fell right into my carefully constructed trap! 😀
I read elsewhere sometime ago that allowing the seconds hand to run counter clockwise (or anticlockwise if you prefer) would damage the movement and fortunately, I have always avoided allowing the seconds hand to run in reverse.
What I have noticed though on my Valjoux 72 and EP40 based watches is that, when I fully wind the watch, the seconds hand is either harder to stop or impossible to stop, especially after the watch has received a full service and the amplitide is strong.
So I guess the 'sweet spot' may be to wind the watch a bit, then stop the seconds hand to allow synchronization, and then complete the winding process.
I appreciate your guidance.
~ Joe
I realize that if the watch is fully wound, it may not hack this way. Safety of the movement trumps setting accuracy for me...