From a dead stop: wind first, then set? Or the reverse?

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Or doesn't matter one bit? What about hand-wind vs. auto?
 
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I always wind then set- even with Auto- but I don’t think it makes a difference. I do always make sure the hours are before 9 or after 3 to change the date on quickset though- don’t want to bungle the works when it’s in the date change cycle.
 
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If you want to hack the time accurately, wind first then set is the only way to achieve accuracy. Otherwise if you set the time first followed by winding, the second hand will probably not start moving at the precise moment needed for accuracy.
 
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I usually set time about 1 min fast and then wind.
 
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I usually set time about 1 min fast and then wind.
Your OCD is very weak 😀
 
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Ah when it comes to that, yes, on my Speedy.
If I can't hack it, f*** it.
Hah!
You should see me setting my digital clocks though!😉
 
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Is it considered safe to use the 'slight back-pressure on the stem method' to synchronize the seconds hand on a non-hacking vintage watch?

What I have been doing is adjusting the watch only when the mainspring is unwound or nearly unwound. The idea being to avoid stripping or damaging gears in the gear train. I haven't done this with the watch case open to verify that I am actually stopping the movement so there remains some doubt in my mind whether the practice may be damaging long-term.

I stop the seconds hand with a bit of back pressure on the stem while carefully avoiding allowing the seconds hand to run in reverse.

To date, over the course of a couple of years, I haven't ruined any watches while employing this method. 😉

But there is always a "first time" to avoid.
 
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I stop the seconds hand with a bit of back pressure on the stem while carefully avoiding allowing the seconds hand to run in reverse.

Does it really run in reverse, or just stall the movement? If it's truly running backwards, I'm not sure that's such a good idea.
 
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Is it considered safe to use the 'slight back-pressure on the stem method' to synchronize the seconds hand on a non-hacking vintage watch?

What I have been doing is adjusting the watch only when the mainspring is unwound or nearly unwound. The idea being to avoid stripping or damaging gears in the gear train. I haven't done this with the watch case open to verify that I am actually stopping the movement so there remains some doubt in my mind whether the practice may be damaging long-term.

I stop the seconds hand with a bit of back pressure on the stem while carefully avoiding allowing the seconds hand to run in reverse.

To date, over the course of a couple of years, I haven't ruined any watches while employing this method. 😉

But there is always a "first time" to avoid.

You do not want the watch to run backwards. This is why I suggest winding the watch first if you are using this method.

The backpressure "pseudo hack" method uses the friction between the cannon pinion and the center wheel to stall the movement, and it can cause the movement to run backwards if the tension in the cannon pinion is high enough, or the torque from the mainspring is low. You are more likely to cause it to run backwards when it's not fully wound.

If the watch has a hacking movement, you obviously want to wind it first, let it run until 12, then hack it and set the time.

If you are not hacking the movement then it doesn't matter if you wind it first or not from a technical standpoint.

Cheers, Al
 
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If the watch has a hacking movement, you obviously want to wind it first, let it run until 12, then hack it and set the time.
Given what you said above, does this include "pseudo" hacking?
 
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Given what you said above, does this include "pseudo" hacking?

You do not want the watch to run backwards. This is why I suggest winding the watch first if you are using this method.

Cheers, Al
 
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Al,

Thank you for your response. I had you in mind as I was composing my question and describing my current method.

You fell right into my carefully constructed trap! 😀

I read elsewhere sometime ago that allowing the seconds hand to run counter clockwise (or anticlockwise if you prefer) would damage the movement and fortunately, I have always avoided allowing the seconds hand to run in reverse.

What I have noticed though on my Valjoux 72 and EP40 based watches is that, when I fully wind the watch, the seconds hand is either harder to stop or impossible to stop, especially after the watch has received a full service and the amplitide is strong.

So I guess the 'sweet spot' may be to wind the watch a bit, then stop the seconds hand to allow synchronization, and then complete the winding process.

I appreciate your guidance.

~ Joe
 
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You do not want the watch to run backwards.

I remember I had 2 different older Rolexes that were prone to running backwards when first picked up from sitting in our storage drawer. I can't recall whether I was setting the time or just fiddling with them but it surprised the hell out of me at the time. one was a 1680 and the other a later sapphire 5513.
 
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Does it really run in reverse, or just stall the movement? If it's truly running backwards, I'm not sure that's such a good idea.

It can truly run in reverse.

Now it is time for me to fess up!

I once allowed this to happen just the one time with my first Valjoux 72 based watch and for perhaps as much as two seconds - just enough to horrify me!

I am not an expert on mechanical watch movements , but I do have experience with many things mechanical in nature and I am aware that a gear train that is designed to run in one direction only can be seriously damaged if permitted to run in the opposite direction. At the very least, the gears have been 'broken in' and have a soft side and a hard side. Trying to run a ratchet in reverse is going to ruin the ratchet. I had visions of chipped teeth.

I immediately Googled the subject and the results confirmed for me that allowing a watch movement to run in reverse, even for just a couple of seconds, can damage the gear train.

Of course, watchmakers have seen the result of this sort of abuse and know infinitely more than I do, based on education and experience.

~ Joe

Edit: Al's post helps to allay any lingering fears I may have had in simply stopping the movement to "pseudo hack."
 
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Al,

Thank you for your response. I had you in mind as I was composing my question and describing my current method.

You fell right into my carefully constructed trap! 😀

I read elsewhere sometime ago that allowing the seconds hand to run counter clockwise (or anticlockwise if you prefer) would damage the movement and fortunately, I have always avoided allowing the seconds hand to run in reverse.

What I have noticed though on my Valjoux 72 and EP40 based watches is that, when I fully wind the watch, the seconds hand is either harder to stop or impossible to stop, especially after the watch has received a full service and the amplitide is strong.

So I guess the 'sweet spot' may be to wind the watch a bit, then stop the seconds hand to allow synchronization, and then complete the winding process.

I appreciate your guidance.

~ Joe

I realize that if the watch is fully wound, it may not hack this way. Safety of the movement trumps setting accuracy for me...
 
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I realize that if the watch is fully wound, it may not hack this way. Safety of the movement trumps setting accuracy for me...
Agreed. Nobody here is synchronizing bombing raids over Berlin (as far as I know), so if you’re a few second off..... And if you need to be that precise, a watch that has a hacking complication would alleviate stress of missing the end of the eBay auction you were watching.