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From 7077 to 1171... 18 vintage Seamaster and Speedmaster Bracelets

  1. uwsearch

    uwsearch Sep 19, 2016

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    Hi guys, I want to share some information I collected over the years about vintage Speedmasters and Seamasters bracelets.



    Let's start with the oldest with 19mm endlinks:

    [​IMG]

    The first one looks like a 7077, it was fitted on a 14364-2 Seamaster chronograph from the begining of the '60 with no7 endlinks (18mm). On the picture it's on replacement no6 endlinks. 7077 has double spring links and some are missing on this one. Buckle is 22.5x16.5mm. As there is no date nor model number on clasp, I'm not sure that it's a 7077, but it looks very much like it.

    The second one is dated 1 61 but doesn't have any model number. It looks like a 7912 anyway.. It was fitted on a Seamaster 300 with double 14755-62165014-62 references with no6 original endlinks. Buckle is 29.5x16.3mm.

    The third one is a 1035 dated 3 67 and was on a 105003-65 Speedmaster produced in august 1967. Endlinks are 506 (19mm) and bucke is 29.5x16.6mm. It's in better condition than the other two.



    Other older bracelets with 20mm endlinks:

    [​IMG]

    The first is a 1506 3 66 in an incredibly perfect condition (without my fingerprints). It was on a Seamaster 300 165.024 with papers from July 1966. No16 endlinks. Buckle 29.6x16.5mm.

    The second one is a very rare 1035 1501 4 66 found on a Seamaster 300 165.014 produced in December 1966. Buckle 29.5x16.8mm.

    Third one is a 1039 2 70 that is common on Seamaster 300/Speedmaster from the end of the '60 till 1972. This one was on a Speedmaster 145.022-69 produced in june 1970. 516 endlinks. 29.8x16.5 buckle.





    Omega started producing a new style of bracelets with 5 links at the end of the '60:

    [​IMG]

    First one, 1098, is designed for 19mm endlinks. It was found with 540 endlinks on Seamaster 60 "big crown" 166.062 or with 547 endlinks on Seamaster 120 165/166.027. This one is on 20mm 575 endlinks that are obviously too wide for this bracelet.
    EDIT 1098 was fitted on:
    Seamaster 165022 166022 166035 166045 with 144 endlink
    Seamaster 165026 166026 166036 with 526 endlink
    Seamaster 135027 136027 165027 166027 with 547 endlink
    Seamaster 168022 168023 166028 166032 166062 with 540 endlink

    The 1116 with 575 (20mm) endlinks was fitted on Speedmaster 145.012 145.022 and Seamaster 300 165.024 166.024 too. This was came on a 145012 68 from november 1967.
    1116 was fitted on 145.006 and 145.016 Seamaster chronographs with 548 endlinks.

    The 1117 is even wider to fit 22mm endlinks: 549 endlinks on Seamaster Soccer chronograph (145.019 and 145.020) and on the big Seamaster Chronostop (145.007 and 145.008) or 627 endlinks on Seamaster 120 "deep blue" 166.073 or 619 endlinks on Seamaster 200 Banana/Poppy/Shom 166.068.

    All 3 references 1098, 1116 and 1117 have the same grooved cover 30x16.5mm and all the ones I know have an 11 in a circle (11). That (11) is found in the earliest 1125 1162 1168 1170 and 1171 bracelets too.

    1159 is an other similar reference with 154 straight endlinks (20mm) that fit Speedmaster MKII 145.014. Mine is out for service, so no picture.. Flightmasters and Memomatic had similar bracelets too: 1159/155 with 22mm straight endlinks.

    The smallest of that family is the 1118 with 18mm. Fitted on small Chronostop 145009 146009 145010 146010 with 123 endlinks and other watches with 18mm lugs.




    Here are two smaller models with 19 and 18mm endlinks:

    [​IMG]

    1125 is the modern replacement to all 19mm straight lugs seamasters and speedmasters. To me, it doesn't look good as 1125 is not vintage enough. 1125 / 617 is a good bracelet option for the recent FIRST Omega In Space Speedmaster "FOIS" though.

    What about 1168 ? Was it produced for the very limited 1976 Apollo Soyuz Speedmaster ? No!! 1168 was produced for the small diver Genève "Ancoretta" 165.054 166.054 135.054 136.054 since 1970 on the 18mm 638 endlinks. The bracelet in the middle was sold in Italy in April 1970. The third one has a 2nd generation clasp cover.

    EDIT:
    Here is a picture of the 18mm 1168 for the Geneve "Ancoretta" Diver and 638 endlinks on top, and the 20mm 1168 for the Apollo Soyuz Speedmaster and 633 endlinks below.
    Buckles, covers, middle links are the same.
    The only difference is the outer links that are wider on the extremely rare 20mm Apollo Soyuz version.
    Many 18mm bracelets were sold on ebay as "Apollo Soyuz" for the past year for over $600... not fair...
    True 20mm Apollo Soyuz never show up... or maybe once a year.

    Capture.JPG



    Here are the straight endlinks bracelets... start with 1162 172 with 22mm lugs:

    [​IMG]

    The first is the oldest with (11) 1162 on the clasp, 172 on the endlinks and Ω in a trapeze on the clasp cover.
    The second one is more recent with (32) a1162/1/172 on the clasp, nothing on the endlinks and Ω in a square. Both have 33x16.5mm buckle.
    The third one, modern replacement with laser engraving (32) 1162/172 on the clasp, nothing on the endlinks and Ω in a square. Buckle is 34x17mm on that modern one.

    These were common on hooded lugs cases as Seamaster 200 "pilot case" 166.091, Seamaster SHOM 166.0177, Seamaster 120 baby ploprof, Seamaster 120 Big Blue Chrono,... It is now considered as the only replacement for most 22mm lugs such as 1170, but look quite ugly on non-hooded lugs.





    Two more 1162: 20mm 173 and 24mm 162:

    [​IMG]

    First is a 1162 173 with 20mm endlinks, that was on a Speedmaster Mark II 145.014. 34x17mm buckle.

    Second is an old 1162 162, with a very early grooved clasp (30x16.5mm).

    The third one is an old one too, but with different clasp engraving and the correct 33x16.5mm buckle.

    This bracelet can be found on the Seamaster 600 PloProf 166.077




    1170 for 22mm endlinks:

    [​IMG]

    On top, a rare 30x17mm cover and (30) on the clasp.

    Second and third ones with Ω in a square (older) or a trapeze, (11) on the clasp and 32.7x17mm buckle

    1170 can be found on Seamaster 200 banana/poppy/shom 166.068 with 631 endlinks, on Seamaster 120 deep blue 166.073 with 634 endlinks, on Seamaster chronograph 176.007 with 653 endlinks,...

    EDIT: Ofrei did list 1170 with some other references: endlinks 604 for 166.064, 166.065, 168.034, 168.035, endlinks 618 for 168.072, endlinks 625 for 145.007, 145.008, 145.019, 145.020, 165.066, endlinks 626 for 166.092, endlinks 631 for 166.068, endlinks 634 for 166.073, endlinks 653 for 145.029, 176.001, 176.007







    The most common: 1171

    [​IMG]

    Produced from 1970 till today, it's made for 20mm endlinks Speedmaster and Seamaster 300 on 633 endlinks. It does fit the small blue Seamaster 120 166.088 with 650 endlinks.
    Some 1171 Novolink show up from time to time on Ebay from Japan and Korea. These were fitted on Seamaster Cosmic 2000 166.0128 (676 endlink), 166.0129 (676 endlink) and 166.0130 (677 endlink). 677 endlinks are very similar to 633 and fit Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster 145.022 too. 676 endlinks don't fit.

    From the top to the bottom:

    - The oldest (11) 1171 clasp, 633 engraved endlinks and very rare oldest buckle cover (29x15mm)

    - Old (11) 1171 clasp, 29.5x15.2mm buckle with Ω in a trapeze. This is a typical first generation 1171.

    - More recent (32) 1171/1 clasp, Ω in a square, but buckle size 34x17mm

    - Recent replacement (32) 1171/633 laser engraved, nothing on the endlink, Ω in a square, 33.6x16.8mm.

    - Recent replacement (32) 1171 laser engraved, 633 laser engraved endlink, Ω in a square, 33.6x16.8mm.






    Last but not least: 1175 and 1184

    [​IMG]

    1175 was produced from the begining of '70 till mid-'80. Look from the '60 with square links but no spring links. 30x17mm buckle. It was fitted to Speedmasters 145.022.

    The first one was made in 2-71, 1175 (No12) engraved clasp and with 640 endlinks.

    The second one has no 1175 on clasp. It has 47 endlinks and is absolutely new old stock from 5-83.

    This is my favorite bracelet to put on modern Speedmaster to give then a vintage look. It's less noisy than 1171 and very comfortable.


    Last one, 1184 is probably the rarest bracelet I've seen. It looks very much like a 1170, the only difference is the 34x16.5mm buckle cover. This one comes from a Seamaster 120 deep blue black version (34'M serial number) that was sold in september 1973 in Israel and that 1184 bracelet is mentionned in the extract of archives. I found an other one on a 176.007 with a 34M serial number too from august 1973.


    Thanks for reading, I hope it was useful



    EDIT: Added bracelet sizes:

    000 bracelet size 2.jpg
     
    Edited Oct 5, 2018
  2. fibonacci086

    fibonacci086 Sep 19, 2016

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    Thank you very much for this amazing work !
     
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  3. spin_transistor

    spin_transistor Sep 19, 2016

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    Bravo!! :thumbsup:

    Excellent reference points.
     
  4. pascs

    pascs Sep 19, 2016

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    Some great info and pics there, thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

    Interesting about 1184, I have an 1184 clasp with some attached links but can't remember where it came from. At least now I know it could go on my 166.073 :D
     
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  5. LiquidSolid

    LiquidSolid Sep 19, 2016

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    Thanks for the info, especially on the latter bracelet references :thumbsup:
     
  6. oddboy

    oddboy Zero to Grail+2998 In Six Months Sep 19, 2016

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    Awesome reference post! Thank you!

    ....maybe a guest submission post for speedmaster101?
     
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  7. bvertz

    bvertz Sep 19, 2016

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    Your springbar tool got a workout. Good job!
     
  8. uwsearch

    uwsearch Sep 19, 2016

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    This post is in fact more about vintage Seamasters bracelets...
    About speedmasters bracelets, nothing better than Moonwatch only book pp 187-198
     
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  9. Andy K

    Andy K Dreaming about winning an OFfie one day. Sep 19, 2016

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    Fantastic! Bookmarked. Thank you for sharing this.
     
  10. Andy K

    Andy K Dreaming about winning an OFfie one day. Sep 19, 2016

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    Oh, and I respectfully disagree, I think the 1162 with straight ends looks good on a cushion cases like the 176.010 as well. I have been guilty of wearing it on 007 too, if only because these are really easy to work with. :)
     
  11. uwsearch

    uwsearch Sep 19, 2016

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    You're correct, it's not ugly... it's shouting at me "you don't have the correct bracelet!!!" and it's painful, not ugly, painful ha ha
     
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  12. Interstellar

    Interstellar Sep 19, 2016

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    Thanks for sharing, a very resourceful post


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. dialstatic

    dialstatic Oct 14, 2016

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    Excellent post, bookmarked! In addition to the straight, fixed end link bracelets that feature in your 1162 section, there are a few others that I came across while researching correct bracelets for my watches. Might be useful for reference:

    - 1171/175 (20mm fixed, straight end links. I believe these were for the 176.005 'TV dial' Seamaster).
    - 1116/148 (20mm fixed, straight end links - bracelet tapers to 20mm at end links. I believe these were for the 145.024 'Flat Jedi' Seamaster)
    - 1116/154 (20mm fixed, straight end links - bracelet tapers to wider than 20mm at end links to connect with the lines of the case of the 145.014 'Mark II' Speedmaster).
    - 1159/154 (20mm fixed, straight end links - same as 1116/154 but with wider center links).
     
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  14. uwsearch

    uwsearch Oct 15, 2016

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    Thanks for the input... I did mention 1159/154 that I have on a MKII 145.014 that I didn't picture. ButI didn't know that it was supposed to be a 1116/154 on it. Mine was originaly on that 1159/154 I guess.
     
  15. dialstatic

    dialstatic Oct 15, 2016

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    I think both the 1116/154 and the 1159/154 are correct for a MKII (but different periods). They both taper to the same width (>20mm). I'll dive back into the books to make sure.
     
    Edited Oct 16, 2016
  16. KeepTheSpeed

    KeepTheSpeed Oct 16, 2016

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    Superb information. Thanks for sharing
     
  17. omitohud

    omitohud Oct 16, 2016

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    Thank you.


    I blame it on the autoconnect.
     
  18. Nactex

    Nactex Oct 17, 2016

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    Thank you for including the No. 12 marked with 47 ends(1175), it is normally left off most Speedmaster bracelet charts.

    "1175 was produced from the begining of '70 till mid-'80. Look from the '60 with square links but no spring links. 30x17mm buckle. It was fitted to Speedmasters 145.022.

    The first one was made in 2-71, 1175 (No12) engraved clasp and with 640 endlinks.

    The second one has no 1175 on clasp. It has 47 endlinks and is absolutely new old stock from 5-83.

    This is my favorite bracelet to put on modern Speedmaster to give then a vintage look. It's less noisy than 1171 and very comfortable."
     
  19. dx009

    dx009 Oct 17, 2016

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    The world of horology needs people like you. :thumbsup:
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Enzo

    Enzo Oct 17, 2016

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    Fantastic work, very well done :thumbsup: