I bought a very basic Omega Seamaster last night at a vintage market in Bangkok for about US$120. I had it opened at a watch shop near my house this afternoon and learned its a 501, 17 jewel with serial number 28816756. I've been searching the 501 movements of the Seamaster series on the Omega Vintage Watches Database without being able to find it, which - combined with the excellent condition of the dial - has led me to believe it was probably redialed at some point. Can anyone help me identify this watch more accurately? This was intended to be a learning exercise for me. I recently had my 1969 Speedmaster Professional overhauled at the only authorized repair shop in Bangkok and the exercise has promoted my interest in collecting and learning more. At this large vintage market there were 5-10 different stalls with various vintage watches - mostly Omega and Mido - with prices varying between about US$120 to about US$760. I would like to develop sufficient understanding to identify the key characteristics of vintage Omega watches of this sort in order to make informed decisions and negotiate skillfully with vintage market vendors. Can anyone provide me with a short list of - 5 to 10 - questions I should be asking myself about any given vintage Omega to help identify it, its quality and valuation? This is new for me, and my first time joining a watch forum, and any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Dial isn't original, its been re-done, case looks like a monocoque in gold plated. The first thing to know is that 90% of the time the guy you're buying off doesn't really know that much about what he's selling, and often even if you ask the right questions, he'll guess or outright lie to you anyway. What you need to do is help yourself develop a critical eye for vintage watches such that you go into the deal knowing more about the watch than the guy you're buying from. The first step is to pick the direction, are you keen on Omega dress watches?
Thanks for the prompt reply and sound advice. Another challenge for me is I don't speak the language in Thailand, where I live and am looking for watches, so there is very limited discussion with the seller. The benefit is that there is a much higher instance of sellers who don't know what they have, giving special advantage to an informed buyer. My work regularly takes me to Myanmar (Burma), where the offering is largely the same with many vintage watches left over from the era of British rule but where the sellers speak significantly more English. I hope I'm not coming across are neo-imperialistic here... I agree with you regarding developing a critical eye for vintage watches, which is what the second part of my post is about; identifying a handful of criteria by which to evaluate a vintage watch on sight. Any guidance here? I'm still familiarizing myself with all that Omega has done but in principal, yes, I'm more fond of the dress watches than sport. Thanks again for your post.
Your starting point is the Constellation Collector Blog, we've all read it, there are a pile of .pdf form essays written by Desmond, who's the most prominent authority on Omega dress watches, the website is here: http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com.au/ Look down the column on the right hand side and download and read through them all as you get time, its brilliant information. In terms of buying, there's a lot of rubbish floating around Asia, and this watch you purchased I'm afraid qualifies. If you're thinking of going a better quality, all original dress piece, have a look at our For Sale forum here and ask people what they think. eBay's also a great resource, I'd look in those two places online before rolling the dice at a Thai watch flea-market again.
I'm on it. Thanks for the link. About yesterday's purchase, I was prepared for that reaction. Though, you need to start somewhere and I'm happy to have the occasion to join the Omega blogosphere. Thanks for the advice.
but that shouldn't stop you enjoying the hunt. So much joy can be had in wandering the stalls looking for that diamond in the rough. it will also help (as Ash has said with the quality of the watch you purchased) your learning to identify the really crap and not so crap.
Agreed. Can anyone else provide further guidance on 'first points of inspection' that I can use to make a preliminary judgement about the quality, veracity and value of Omega watches I come across in the future? For example, when you look at a buying a used car you might ask, how many miles are on the odometer? how many previous owners has the car had? Had the car ever been in an accident? What kind of criteria can I use to evaluate vintage Omega's
Just ask yourself Quite right. We all got bloody noses when we started out. I still get 'em with some frequency, mostly because I have a gambler's heart - they are self-inflicted. Always easier to discuss a specific watch than to speak generally. Post a few watches you are considering here and let the experienced members critique 'em. I've found that very educational. Just ask yourself, "What would Dennis (ulackfocus) do?"
Just read an interest article in an old Popular Science magazine someone shared by someone else on another thread I posted about vintage fakes. Wondering if I've gotten my nose more bloody than I realize! I had a watch repair shop open the case for me today and was satisfied with the markings indicating 501, Omega and the serial numbers etc. But maybe it's a fake? Can anyone comment on this watches authenticity without having a look at the inner workings? I'll try to get a shot with the case back off ASAP. Best, Josh
If the movement is marked 501 and has a visible serial number that pretty much guarantees its genuine. The caliber 501 is not something which anyone would bother counterfeiting, since its a common Omega movement. The case looks genuine as well, its just from a much later watch. There must have been something which initially attracted you to the watch, so just enjoy it. We've all bought a few duds. The great thing about this forum is that are so many people willing to share their collective experience and knowledge.
Actually, one key point; FONT. Redials never get the font correct. So look carefully at how Seamaster, constellation, etc are written. That is usually the biggest flag.
One thing about this whole story that seems odd is I can't figure out how a caliber 501 movement would fit inside a case that would otherwise house a cal.10XX movement. There is a relatively large difference in the height of the movement of over 1mm: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_501 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_1010 I just don't think there is any way the larger movement would fit inside the more modern case. In order for us to help, we need to see pictures of the inside of the back cover and the movement. My guess is that all is correct under the hood (bonnet) and that only the dial has been refinished. Hope this helps, gatorcpa
Thanks everyone for the help. I'm amazed by how active and helpful so many users are on this forum. Appreciate the guidance to a newbie like me.