Fine Vintage ULYSSE NARDIN Automatic

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As seasoned vintage collectors know, Ulysse Nardin is widely held in high regard. This is due in no small part to the company's long, successful history with marine chronometers and high-class pocket watches. Their wrist chronographs also tend to command high prices in the vintage markets, and for good reason.

UN's more simple wristwatches were generally not in the same class as the above-mentioned model lines, though they do often bring strong prices thanks to the overall reputation of the manufacturer. There were, however, certain models that were of higher quality than UN's standard fare, and this automatic falls into that category.

It is a classic, elegant, understated watch, a style that was typical of the '50s and early '60s. It is fully original to my knowledge, with the possible exception of the crown, and is in very good to excellent condition throughout.

The 35mm stainless steel screw-back case features an uncommon and pleasing design. Underscoring its water resistance, there are fish engraved, but what makes it special is that they overlap two different planes! This was a rare design feature for any manufacturer, given its relative complexity when compared with the typical engravings found on the flat part of the case backs. The case also features pleasing chamfers which extend from lug tip to lug tip. This design cue really sets the case apart from more ordinary cases, as the metal catches light in more interesting ways. Note that there are a few light scratches on the case back, but no deep gouges.

The cal. N 1633 is based on an A. Schild ebauche, probably cal. 1700. It has 21 jewels, and was finely finished with a circular Côtes de Genève pattern. It is in excellent condition, but as I do not know the last date of service, I would strongly advise one for regular wear.

The silver soleil, or "sunburst" dial is attractive, and features applied steel indexes. It also features an applied steel anchor, which is the iconic UN logo. There are a couple of small scratches that can be seen through a loupe, but to the naked eye I would say that they are trivial. There is some oxidation on the hands, but I would characterize it is a minor flaw as well.

The crown is definitely a correct style, but I am not certain that it is original. I say that only because it is unsigned, though I have owned similar era UN watches that also had unsigned crowns.

Note that an almost identical watch, but with a refinished dial, sold recently on eBay (Italy) for €1300! The serial number of the watch was only three digits from the one that I am selling. Frankly, that strikes me as far too high of a price for a non-original dial, but here is the link for anyone who may be interested:

https://www.ebay.it/itm/Ulysse-Nard...503813?hash=item5d97309c05:g:Zm8AAOSwCXBd0l8K

I offer this UN with an original dial for a much more reasonable $850, which, in my view, is terrific value for a really nice, classic automatic from a high-class manufacturer, and from the golden era of 20th century watchmaking. I will include registered shipping from my home in Portugal, or can ship EMS express with insurance for an additional $50. I can accept either PayPal or a bank transfer.

Finally, note that when referring to the classic dial design, I never once used the other "C" word! 😁

Feel free to ask any questions!


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New Year's Eve bump, and all the best to everyone for the new year!
 
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Sold! Thanks to the new owner, and the support of the forum owners and members!