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Scarecrow Boat
··Burt Macklin, FBII’ve been trying to understand what it’s going to cost me to get a watch from overseas to the US, I’m curious what was the customs fee on your purchase?
Filling Out A watch Form For US Customs
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Archer
··Omega Qualified WatchmakerType of movement: Analog vs. Electronic. Confused me at first.
And if it were an auto-winding mechanical movement, how would you divide the value between Movement and Power? 🤦
I have seen some other versions of this form that are less confusing, e.g. this FedEx form.
I have used this hundreds of times, shipping watches to the US. Never had an issue with this form, so IMO this is all you need.
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gostang9
·For anyone curious as to 'why' some (most?) shipping companies require this type of form, it has to do with determining the appropriate Harmonized Tariff Schedule code (HTS code). Based on the type of watch, movement, country of origin, different duty rates will apply. For watches, different rates are also applied on the value of the case and strap.
Below is the page showing the related HTS code for a typical Speedy. Note there is $1.53 fixed amount of duty, then 4.2% on the case and 9.8% on the strap/band/bracelet. If most of the value is assigned to the movement, small amount on the case and very low amount on the strap/band/bracelet, it will result in the lowest duty owed.
Below is the page showing the related HTS code for a typical Speedy. Note there is $1.53 fixed amount of duty, then 4.2% on the case and 9.8% on the strap/band/bracelet. If most of the value is assigned to the movement, small amount on the case and very low amount on the strap/band/bracelet, it will result in the lowest duty owed.
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Evitzee
·I can't recall ever being hit with duty on watches coming into the US. I've bought three watches in the past year or so and all sailed through the Customs process unmolested and with no issues. The last one was 'pre-cleared' before it even got to the US, and then spent about 90 minutes from arrival until it departed Customs on its final journey to my front door. US Customs just isn't that concerned with collecting duty on individual shipments, just not worth their time. I once walked 48 bottles of high end Australian wine through LAX Customs, fully declared in the 'red' line, they fiddled with their Customs manual for a minute, closed it, stamped the card and said 'have a nice day'. If you enter the US now from a cruiseport in Florida you don't even fill out a Customs Declaration any more, just present yourselves to Immigration for passport check and move on, no obvious presence of any Customs people, and the Carribean is a huge market for high end watches and jewelry, most of it entering the US in Florida. They have bigger fish to fry, ie drug and cash interdiction. Watches, not so much.
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frasatriani
·Hi guys, i'm following the topic because i like also to know more about it. would love to buy an omega from US but i don't know how much to pay in import taxes. I'm a private, not a reseller. Based on what i understand, declaring a value of the watch (for ex. 10.000€) and breaking it down in different components, gives you an estimate of the total fees you are willing to pay. For es. 7000 movement, 2000 case, 1000 bracelet. Does anyone have any experience with that? also resellers answers are more than welcome. thanks. Francesco
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gbesq
·The rule of thumb is to always allocate most of the value to the movement as that is taxed at the lowest rate. Avoid high value precious metal cases. Platinum = bad. Compared to virtually all of Europe, importing a luxury watch into the U.S. is a breeze. As long as you’re honest, U.S. Customs is generally very reasonable in their assessment of duty.
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frasatriani
·The rule of thumb is to always allocate most of the value to the movement as that is taxed at the lowest rate. Avoid high value precious metal cases. Platinum = bad. Compared to virtually all of Europe, importing a luxury watch into the U.S. is a breeze. As long as you’re honest, U.S. Customs is generally very reasonable in their assessment of duty.
thank you but do you know if there is any document where i can read the fares from different states for import/export? i imagine every state has different laws. Just to understand if there could be a convenience sometimes importing from us to eu. thanks
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Evitzee
·If you are importing into the EU from a US seller there are no tax or duty implications from the US, duty will be dependent on EU regulations.
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frasatriani
·If you are importing into the EU from a US seller there are no tax or duty implications from the US, duty will be dependent on EU regulations.
Sure, each country has it's own percentages
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frasatriani
·Sure, each country has it's own percentages
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Zman4eva
·Just to add another data point to this thread. I just bought a watch from the Netherlands shipping to the US. It's shipped via DHL. Value of the watch was $1,342 (in USD). Duty was 5.30% plus receiver fee. Total tax/fee was an extra $89.
I paid the $89 on DHL's website before they would deliver it.
I paid the $89 on DHL's website before they would deliver it.
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dsio
··Ash @ ΩFSorry for bumping such an old thread but, for a Rolex 1680 Submariner what is the most appropriate description and model number here?
Should I just say Description: Rolex Submariner Steel Watch Model: 1680
Or should I. say something more generic like Description: "Steel mechanical watch" Model: 1680
Or something else?
Should I just say Description: Rolex Submariner Steel Watch Model: 1680
Or should I. say something more generic like Description: "Steel mechanical watch" Model: 1680
Or something else?
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Archer
··Omega Qualified WatchmakerSorry for bumping such an old thread but, for a Rolex 1680 Submariner what is the most appropriate description and model number here?
Should I just say Description: Rolex Submariner Steel Watch Model: 1680
Or should I. say something more generic like Description: "Steel mechanical watch" Model: 1680
Or something else?
Personally, I would use the serial number there. That way you won't attract any attention from someone who knows what a 1680 is.
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gbesq
·I would probably include the manufacturer and reference number. Otherwise, it looks like you’re trying to hide something and that never goes over well with customs. Make sure that you note that it’s used (not “preowned” which sounds like it’s a Mercedes) and allocate as much value to the movement as you reasonably can (I usually allocate the movement as 60-75% of total value).
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dsio
··Ash @ ΩFPersonally, I would use the serial number there. That way you won't attract any attention from someone who knows what a 1680 is.
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gbesq
·Give all the paperwork to the courier and take it to them with the box open as they will inspect it. They’ll seal the box and attach the paperwork in the appropriate way.
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Archer
··Omega Qualified WatchmakerAhk, it’s still going to be pretty obvious though isn’t it given in the price breakdown I make it clear that it’s over $10k? Does this form get attached to the box where it can be seen or do you give it to FedEx and they fold it up in one of those plastic sleeves or something?
I give one copy to the FedEx agent when it's dropped off, and another copy goes into the pouch. They will scan it into the system, unless they lose the sheet (which used to happen a lot, but hasn't happened to me in many years now). I always provide a second copy just in case they do lose it, and I would have an electronic version available.
There's absolutely zero reason to put the brand name on any paperwork, unless it's on a bill of sale.
BTW I think the tariff code you want is this one...
WRIST WATCHES, AUTOMATIC - 9102210000
Give all the paperwork to the courier and take it to them with the box open as they will inspect it. They’ll seal the box and attach the paperwork in the appropriate way.
Sorry to disagree, but I would be packing that box myself (taking a video of it) and not letting anyone else open it or handle the contents.
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gbesq
·I give one copy to the FedEx agent when it's dropped off, and another copy goes into the pouch. They will scan it into the system, unless they lose the sheet (which used to happen a lot, but hasn't happened to me in many years now). I always provide a second copy just in case they do lose it, and I would have an electronic version available.
There's absolutely zero reason to put the brand name on any paperwork, unless it's on a bill of sale.
BTW I think the tariff code you want is this one...
WRIST WATCHES, AUTOMATIC - 9102210000
Sorry to disagree, but I would be packing that box myself (taking a video of it) and not letting anyone else open it or handle the contents.
