http://articles.latimes.com/2008/jun/28/local/me-wunderman28

I heard stories about what happened after Wunderman's license to manufacture Gucci watches was not renewed by Gucci. Anybody know the truth?

 

I rarely give this brand any thought...until Friday when an old work colleague showed up with a plastic bag full of parts. It was his wife's Gucci that he tried to change the battery in.

Broke the stem off flush with the crown (currently in an alum solution solving that problem), and of course he could not get the case back on without a press. Damaged the hard plastic gasket with his attempts, so once I replace the stem I need to find another gasket that will fit.

At least it has a decent ETA quartz movement inside and not some no jewel junk movement...

Those are my thoughts on Gucci.

 

Gucci is not a major focus of mine, either. I just thought the story behind the genesis of the Gucci watch, might be of interest. Gucci lovers might not be the sort that haunt this forum. But there are a lot of Gucci owners out there.
I keep an assortment of the hard red gaskets that Gucci (and many Omegas, and others use) on hand. They are usually easily replaced. It is common for these gaskets to be destroyed in the hands of those who are unfamiliar with the right way to handle them.

If you Google Severin Wunderman (of Gucci watches), you will see that he was also a movie actor. Interesting guy!

 

Like the kind the ingenuity. Nice reading.

 

I have a gasket or two (or a few thousand) in my gasket drawer, so I'm not too worried about finding one that works...



Cheers, Al

 

All the way down to the last paragraph.............oh, he was married 5 times

 

Hi Archer: What's the 'trick' with getting that case back on (installed) 'Without' damaging the new RED GASKET?
"yes, I admit it. I've failed at this 2 times now. and at $4.50 plus shipping, these gaskets are getting pricey.)

I've used 2 different types of case back presses and no luck. It's almost impossible to keep the case back 'square' (true) with the gasket and 'case body' so that the pressure is even all the way around. seems that something always 'tilt's'. once that occurs. then the case back will NOT go flush and the RED Gasket starts to get damaged. (Ridges form on the edge. When you try to press again, those 'ridges' prevent the gasket from 'sliding' into place properly).

I 'searched the internet to find out the 'proper' method to replace these (I think they are used a lot on Omega's as well) but I can't seem to find any 'good/clear' instructions.
(my luck, I'll need to purchase a $500 press... to install a $4.50 gasket.)

 

If the gasket stays in the case when you pop the back off, you MUST remove the gasket from the case, and carefully clean the gasket and the case back (and case if necessary). Then the gasket is fitted around the flange of the case back IN THE SAME ORIENTATION AS IT WAS when the back was removed! Then the case back can usually be refitted without using a case back press. But it is a good idea to use a case press to assure the back is firmly seated. If you leave the gasket in the case, and then try to fit the case back, you'll destroy the gasket every time. Archer says he never re-uses these gaskets. I do, if the gasket is in good shape. Right or wrong.

 

Thanks for that. The 'old' (or original) gasket was pretty messed up (by previous repair people replacing the Battery I suspect)
so I purchased a new one from Esslingler. On their website they provide the ID and OD of each size they carry. I needed a
28.35 (ID) x 29.5 (OD). the Case back measures 28.5 and the case measures 29.5 (exactly 0.5mm gap). looking at the gasket size
the 'thickness' would be (29.5 - 28.35) / 2 or 0.575mm. the gasket I received measured 0.6mm thick. just too thick.
yes, I put it on the case back (not in the case) and very carefully placed it on the case. (so it was a 'true' to the case as possible )
then applied pressure with the case press. NADA! this is NOT going to press on. there is just 'not' enough room (between the case back
rim and the case). I need a gasket thickness just a bit smaller (closer to .5mm) for this to work. otherwise, It won't fit, the gasket will get damaged
and then it really won't press in.
I suspect that GUCCI has their 'own' red gaskets which are slightly thinner AND they use some special press that perfectly aligns the
case back with the case when 'pressing' thus assuring 'even' pressure is applied all the way around the case back and gasket.

anyway, that's my 'theory'. maybe other have some 'tricks' they use to get these things back on?? if so, please share.

I've placed another order for some additional gaskets. this time I've also purchased 1 size smaller. My thinking.. 'stretch'
the smaller one around the case back, thus making it 'thinner' (as the material deforms and stretches, it gets 'thinner' like a rubber band) and hopefully it will slide into place. ?? maybe not. the risk is, 'it will break, as it's not 'that' elastic. but I'm running out of ideas.
(I also bought replacements from CAS-KER this time, maybe they source from a different supplier and the thickness will be closer to .5mm?)

 

I have run into the same problem when replacing these red gaskets. It helps to have an assortment. When I run into the problem you had, I use the next smaller i/d gasket, lube it with silicone, and stretch it on over the case back flange. This causes to o/d of the gasket to reduce a bit, and they will then usually go on. Sometimes you have to go to the next smaller gasket, as well. I have always succeeded getting them on.

 

If anyone can save it Archer can.

 

For fitting a compression gasket like this, keep in mind that it is an interference fit, so this is why they are one time use only. Certainly you can use them over again, but if you can press the case back in with your fingers this tells you that the gasket is not sealing the way it should - these should require a press to install if they are fitted properly. Using one again will result in less water resistance, so that is why I don't use them over. What I will do is clean up and use the old gasket temporarily during my timing checks after I've serviced a watch, and then once I have made all my adjustments and won't have to open the case again, a new gasket is installed before the watch is returned to the customer:



Canuck is correct that the gasket is fitted to the case back, not left in the case. In addition these have an orientation - typically there will be a chamfer on the leading edge - that has to face up when on the case back so it is down when you flip it over and press the case back on:



A good press is a must - I use a rack press and it's very rigid and very well aligned as the dies must remain parallel. Pressing the case back in is usually very straightforward, so finding an appropriate die to cradle the watch, and the right size and type for the case back. Dies made for pressing in snap back cases will be sold as such, and are different from those for pressing in tension ring crystals, pressing on bezels, or pressing in flat mineral/sapphire crystals. Here I have the watch lined up in the press:



And here the case back has been pressed in using one shot of the press. For watches where the case back is not as rigid as this one is (Speedmaster date automatic) I will sometimes press in stages, so lightly press on the case back to just barely seat it, then rotate the watch say 30 degrees and press a little more, and keep rotating and pressing (checking to ensure the case back is level) until you have pressed it all the way in:



These gaskets do not require lubrication - that would be partially defeating the friction fit that is needed to keep the case back in place and provide a proper seal.

I usually leave the watch in the press for a while, and after 15 minutes go back and give it another press - often the gaskets will push the case back out slightly over the first few minutes so this is just making sure it's seated. I do the same when installing thick dive watch crystals using a hard plastic gasket.

The last piece of advice I can give you is not to order just one gasket - I will always order a minimum of 3, just in case one gives me trouble.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Al

 

EXCELLENT! Thanks AL. you've now educated 'the masses' once again, on proper technique. (and helped me a lot).
By the way, while I was waiting for the replies here, I sent a message (on the outside chance, that one of the bigger distributors (who sells
these) could offer some advise). Esslinger replied and said "order 1 size smaller and 'stretch it' over the case back (ever so carefully).
This will 'elongate' the material and thus make it just a bit 'thinner' so it will press down".
Fitting with your tutorial as well.

Yes, the part about having the chamfer 'down' (toward the case) is a good point. Unless you're looking under a loop, it's difficult to see that
and the 'untrained' will put it in upside down (causing even more problems.)

Where did you get your 'rack' press? I don't have one of those and that's a great suggestion. I 'was' thinking about a screw type press, but a rack makes more sense. (but I'm guessing since your a certified Omega Watchmaker, it's an Omega? and unavailable to the masses, yes?)

(ps thanks too for the pics. great stuff. )

 

oy @Archer make and model of the press please if you could be so kind Im looking for one with a high lift

 

is it 6173?
never mind thats 6173 why did i not see this before? yay shopping!

 

Found it! FOR AUCTION on eBay (1 day 18hrs to go, as of May 18, 10PM MST).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bergeon-rack-press-6173-with-black-base-/122489329719Purchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network


buy is now for $575 (so it says).
too rich for my budget right now.

 

Glad this helped. Yes 6173, and well worth the investment if you use a press very often. It is particularly good for installing thick dive watch crystals, as those tend to be a very tight fit and the gaskets are easily deformed if the press is not rigid and 100% lined up. I used to use a Horotec press that was actually not much cheaper than this Bergeon is, and it would deform gaskets like crazy - now it rarely happens with this press.

I mentioned the second go in the press after initial installation - this is critical with thick crystals in particular. I took this video a while back, so this is after pressing the crystal into the case, and the letting the case sit for 15 minutes or so:

You can hear the very distinct "click" of the crystal seating on the case - sounds like something snapped but it didn't. If you don't hear this, the crystal is not seated properly. You won't hear this with a case back, but the same idea happens that the gasket will "relax" a bit and it should be pressed in a second time to be sure.

Cheers, Al