Hello All -

After diligently wading through the wealth of hard-won wisdom here, I'm hoping I don't illicit eye-rolls in regards to my beginner's questions... The background: my real obsession is fine vintage and antique jewelry, but have recently made my first foray into watches. My parents wanted to present me with a watch for graduate school, and left it to me to pick one. My dear mother is very satisfied with a retail Bulova she just bought herself, so I'm grateful for the free reign. I took my time and did quite a bit of research - I read articles on Omega, GQ, Hodinkee, AskMen, eBay, GentlemensGazette, aBlogtoWatch... (I found the under-representation of women in this collecting field completely unexpected; there are some beautiful fine dress watches for ladies out there!). Being more of an expert in jewelry, the advice [for novices] I got made sense: buy something you like (not just for investment), do your research (for authenticity), when in doubt gold/plat/rhod is better than plastic, gold plate or fill, consider how/when/where you plan to wear the piece, and finally, factor in possible repair/restoration/maintenance costs.

I chose Omega because I was surprised at the competitive prices of quality women's vintage pieces were relation to Cartier, PP, Rolex, etc. I also wanted a piece with the backing of an established, respectable house. I ended up settling on the watch pictured, purchased through an experienced, 100% rated eBay seller. I did match up the serial number, model and case numbers, as well as cross reference numerous pictures beforehand. The only thing I asked about was the crown - I noticed it did not have the Omega symbol, which my reading says most likely changed to an aftermarket crown during past maintenance/repair. The seller admitted the crown was probably aftermarket, but that he did not touch the watches he bought - he does not do repairs or cleaning. I felt the purchase was a safe one, with the numbers all corresponding and more importantly, the purchase price being very reasonable considering the gold weight.

The watch is a 17 jewel 481 from the 1950's (1958?), and has a solid 14k YG case and bracelet. It is said to "run and keep time" (hasn't arrived yet), though I plan to get it serviced anyway (Omega's website designates this a Cat. 4, "Very Old Calibre"). I always take newly acquired antique jewelry to my jeweler to ensure there are no loose stones, cracked links, etc. I'm sure watches are the same!

Keeping in mind I plan to wear the watch daily and not sell it for profit, my questions are as follows:

1) I know my research said the dial is the most important and sensitive part, and not to alter it at all/redial if possible. Based on the pictures, should an attempt be made to clean the dial?

2) Is it important to replace the crown with an corresponding one from Omega now, if ever?

3) Would it devalue the piece to add a 14k YG safety chain?

4) Where should I go for service? This is the final thing I haven't been able to figure out. Some say only Omega After-Sales Service, others say an authorized dealer, some say a reputable watchmaker/professional.

I know my situation is a bit different than the majority of posts here, since this is a woman's watch and has one foot in the watch world and one in the jewelry world. Any advice or even opinions would be welcome - I've definitely wandered into unfamiliar territory here, but even though I don't see myself as a watch collector (yet?), I do love the value and history of older pieces, and don't want to cause careless destruction. Apologies for the lengthy dissertation, and thank you!

 

I just hate it when these newbies roll up in the quest for information and then just vanish <end joke>

Congrats on a well structured first post.

Your little Omega is a ladies "Saphette" model and should come up very nicely after a service.

The dial may be able to be dusted off, I wouldn't try anything more aggressive than that. You could check supply houses like Cousins UK, Otto Frei (US) or Boley for a replacement crown.

We have one or two members here who know a little more about these and may be able to offer more info.

Cheers

Jim

PS: And since this is a great first post, you earned a like from me.

You are now one of the only people on the forum with an equal post to like ratio

 

The dial looks like it might have tobacco residue on it. Sometimes that can be cleaned off. It's also possible Omega might have one to replace it.

As for the safety chain, that won't devalue anything. Nice big rings holding the clasp where it can be attached.

Hope you enjoy wearing your new watch!

Tom

 

Welcome

Tons of ladies sized Omega watches out there, and not much competition for them, even the nicest examples.

Happy Hunting!!

Show pictures of what you buy.

 

I would hesitate to recommend someone that you haven't had personal experience with, but for my requirements, Swiss Time Services/Swisstec in the UK have always come through. I don't think they're the cheapest option though

 

The crystals on the Sapphette series Omega are made of synthetic sapphire, not glass. They generally survive for decades with little or no marking. The facetting on them was done the same way as the facetting was done on gemstones. As to age of the watch? I worked for an Omega dealer during the 1960s, when the Sapphette series was huge in the Omega product line. I think your watch is likely not as early as the late 1950s. As to the dial? If Omega can supply one, and if you don't mind adding the expense of a new dial to the cost of repair, maybe go for it. IMO, re-done dials are almost never as nice as an original dial, but if you are happy with a re-finished dial, you might go for that, as well. My better half has four Omega watches, two from the Sapphette series. One in particular (with re-finshed dial) is her favorite.

 

Re: dials off eBay. If you go that route, make certain the dial you buy is off the same calibre of Omega as the one in your watch. And don't buy one if the listing has a crummy picture. The dial you buy will have to be round, because Sapphette dials came in a numbers of different shapes. And buy a dial with yellow indexes, because they also came in white colour.

 

I found OF via Hodinkee, and he was right when he said it was a friendly resource - thank you all for your wisdom!

- JimInOz: I read through lots of posts to make sure I knew the rules and followed the existing protocol; never expect to get good advice if you blunder about in the asking!

- VetPsychWars: That's what I was thinking; I was pretty sure I could add a safety chain without causing any damage.

- TexOmega, Canuck, + dsio: So glad to hear the women's jewelry/dress watch arena is as far, untapped. Sad to hear about so many being scrapped for gold, but as a passionate rescuer of antique jewelry (particularly Georgian and Victorian), I can't say I'm surprised. Looks like I've opened an entirely new can of worms for myself! This being my first purchase I was more concerned about being duped, and didn't let myself be distracted by the "extras", like diamonds (I have enough experience to know the value of diamonds on a ladies watch this small are inconsequential, but many women fall for them, regardless of what name is on the dial and a "stretch" base metal band. Yuck.). After this watch gets the recommended TLC, I'm sure I'll be diving in for more!

- Mouse_at_Large: I feel the same way. It took a while for me to create my network of jewelers to help me with my usual obsession (they have different specialties, and it's so hard to find an experienced, knowledgeable hand-engraver these days - such a shame), but no one has any expertise in watches. One jeweler I use who specializes in Art Deco jewelry always has a few vintage Cartier Tanks in her cases, so perhaps I'll ask to see who she outsources to... I'm in the US, but travel often and may be in Paris soon, so if all else fails...

I'll be taking everyone's advice and just submit the dial to a gentle cleaning by a professional once I settle on one. The more I think about it, I would like to avoid a redial at all costs on a older piece, since even in my jewelry life I think machine-engraving a handmade piece is sacrilege. If it makes any discernible difference I'll be sure to post it! Sounds like a replacement crown can wait, so I suppose I'll just keep my eyes peeled for the right time/opportunity.

Thank you all again, and I'm glad to have joined!

 

Very delayed update - I went to a [Omega Authorized] jeweler I've used before and he had my watch serviced ($125) and cleaned. Thankfully nothing was damaged or needed replacing, and this little thing is ticking away heartily on my wrist. A happy ending - thank you to all for your advice!