I recently bought a 62 Seamaster that is turning into a nightmare.
One of the problems I inhertited was a cracked crystal that was seated totally unevenly. When I went to replace it today, the darn thing also wouldn't seat evenly and on try 2, cracked in the same gd place. So much swearing.
I get my calipers out to measure the case opening to figure out why this is happening and find it isn't perfectly round. The case opening is 30.55mm at 12 and 6, 30.29 at 3 and 9 and about 30.42 between.

Is this normal? What size crystal would you order? It is a shame, but I have $100 in cracked Omega crystals sitting on my bench, so this guy is going to get a generic crystal.

Keep in mind, I just got it back from the watchmaker as I discovered on delivery the watch had water damage and the stem was rusted almost through. After charging me $400, I popped the back off today and see he put a new crown on the rusted stem and put it back in the watch. So, I'm a hair away from rampage.

Halp!!

 

When you say you popped the back off to see the stem, are you trying to mount the crystal with the movement in the case? By the way, if it's a 55x calibre, then stems are easily available and cheap. I'm assuming it's the 166.0010 you posted about?

Does the case sit flat on the bench when it's resting on it's lugs? Also, what tool are you using to install the crystal as it's more likely that you're breaking the crystal using a poor or incorrect tool. With the correct tool, these usually just press in without trouble. I can't understand why your Watchmaker didn't do this as it would be easy for him.

Any pictures?

Cheers, Chris

 

Not trying to mount with the movement in place. The lugs do not sit flat now that you mention it.
I am using ye olde generic crystal press. I have never had trouble seating a properly sized crystal. It is a 14779.

Why didn't he replace the crystal AND the rusted stem? Why didn't I return the watch $400 ago?

 

It can be disheartening when these things don't go well so, best to walk away for a day. That's what I try to do but am not the best at following my own advice.... Nearly everything can be fixed. You could go back to your Watchmaker and discuss the rusty stem and see if he can see why the crystal won't fit.

It could be the case is slightly deformed so worth checking the top of the bezel is flat and that the groove for the crystal is completely clean and there are no burrs there or on the bezel. Keep that Omega crystal as you should at least use the tension ring from that rather than a generic one. If you order generic, get the same diameter as the Omega crystal as it's likely there is a different fault stopping it seating. How big is the Omega crystal?

I'm not one for believing all these digital caliper measurements to 2 decimals as it's not that easy to get consistent readings. Your case seems to be from 30.3 to 30.5 which is not a big variation.

Late here now but good luck with finding the issue.

Cheers, Chris

 

You need to see my watchmaker. She has the proper tools to straighten out your problem.

 

The watchmaker will be dealt with Tuesday. 2/10mm out of round is significant. I have no expectations for this being waterproof. I wonder if I removed the tension ring (which also split), if it would let the crystal deform enough.

 

The proper fix is to repair the case, not jury rig an improper crystal to fit...

OOR cases can often be made round again...I've done it before. It takes patience though, which I'm not sure you have right this moment...as Chris suggested, walk away for a while. The chances of something good coming from working on a watch when you are tired or upset are slim to none in my experience.

Cheers, Al

 

As Al says, frustration is a killer for most watch parts - I've learnt that the hard way... Nowadays, I do walk away.

I do think it's hard to measure internal diameters with calipers, you only need to be slightly out to generate a big error. One tick mark out and you've generated a 0.2 mm error so, I wouldn't be sure it's out of round.

I'd take it to your Watchmaker who can remove the bezel and see if there is an out of round problem. If you want to press on yourself, measure the Omega crystal and let's say it's 30.8 mm, buy some generics of 30.2, 30.4, 30.6 and 30.8. Then try fitting them from the smallest going up - hopefully this will help with identifying the problem and show you if it's out of round. I'm not recommending fitting a crystal smaller than Omega supply but it might help to see what the problem is.

The tension ring will be split anyway so, I assume you mean it got further damage? Here's a new Omega crystal and ring from this era and they're made this way.


If this is the watch I think it is, it will be nice when finished. I'm not sure but there may have always been a problem that no-one noticed before - huge photos show far more than you see with the eye. I hope your Watchmaker solved this as it looks like you can see the movement here so the movement is not sitting correctly in the case with the tension ring. Perhaps something else to discuss with him?


Regards, Chris

 

Thank for all the advice and for making me feel better about this. I did walk away once the crystal popped. I have no more parts to break.

I have spent $$ in excess of the value of this watch, so I am reluctant to spend more with this watchmaker other than to get the stem installed that I paid for. My confidence in him is toast. I think he owes me a shot at the crystal, too, for trying to get one over on me.

I am not at liberty to say much about it, but I work in an extremely high precision manufacturing facility. I am confident of the measurements and little else. For conversation's sake and to keep me preoccupied, I am curious how one would fix the case. My hypothesis is it was smooshed in a vice. It could be remachined.

And yes, Chris -- same watch. In that photo with the as-sold crystal, the tension ring is in upside down (as sold). Also, it shows the movement exposed at the top of the case, which reinforces the measurements.

 

I never know how deep people's knowledge is so good to hear that you work in a high tech industry. Forty years now for me in Aircraft Engineering but, not much longer

Tension ring upside down I think I see that in the photos. Most of the collectors here wouldn't know about that. I am wearing a 354 bumper at the moment bought on here and when it arrived, likely due to old lume and poor handling, there was dust everywhere and the hands were almost skeletons. Not a major issue but the movement was missing a case clamp and the pin that holds it on the other side. Those were the good parts as the movement was shot. All fine now but it owes me a lot of money I shan't see again. I would say I find major issues with about 10% of those vintage I've bought so, let's hope this was your 10% in one go.

Regards, Chris

 

That depends on why it's measuring OOR. Is it a pure oval, or has the watch been dropped and only a small segment dented? If the case back screws on without any problems, then I would be looking for a dent from a drop, rather than ovalling of the case. I've not had to remachine one yet, and I'm not sure I would take that approach really - sounds like a bad idea to me - you would now have thin spots on the bezel, which won't look very good.

So an oval case is the easiest to fix - simply compress it the long way until it's round again. When I say "simply" of course it's not that simple, but it certainly can be done, and I have done it successfully on several occasions. How you do this depends on the strength of the case to begin with, and how severe the oval is, and what kind of "feel" you have when using tools. I would not recommend a vice, and I personally use a small watchmakers hammer. Although it sounds less precise, it isn't really - I can vary the force applied by the hammer almost infinitely, from a decent whack to very light taps. Take your time, don't support the case on the lugs but on the case ring (or you may end up with a rounded square result), and it's not all that complicated.

Where the watch has been dropped and essentially a flat has been created on one side in the ID where the crystal seats, that one is tougher. I have been successful grinding custom punches, and tapping the spot from the inside with them to open up that spot...think of how a dapping block is used and that gives you the basic idea. It requires a lot of patience and frequent checking, and maybe a little clean up of the ID with abrasive paper and repolish lightly after, but I can assure you it works.

Cheers, Al