Classic Vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter Date cal. 218-2 Microtor Automatic

Up for sale is this ultra-stylish vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter Date featuring a beautiful original black "tuxedo" dial and UG’s proprietary automatic caliber 218-2 Microtor movement. This handsome watch dates to circa the early 1960s based on the movement iteration and serial number, I believe, and also has the iconic all stainless steel 2-piece twisted lug screwed case made by Huguenin Freres of Speedmaster fame. Said to be one of Gerald Genta’s early design successes, this iconic Polerouter is in Excellent overall vintage condition. Whether one believes the Genta mythology or not, and I think at this point there is solid anecdotal evidence from the late great man himself to back it up, this beautifully designed vintage watch has a classically elegant yet sporty look with a wonderfully aged original gilt-gloss dial that is magic on the wrist.

The asking price for this classic UG Polerouter Date is $1250 USD OBRO, which includes fully insured FedEx shipping worldwide. Bank Wire is always appreciated but Paypal is also OK on this watch with split fees (+2% to the buyer). Other payment options upon application. Watch will ship upon full clearance of the funds, as well as any necessary bank vetting. Payment must be made in US DOLLARS.



CASE & BACK: Wonderfully proportioned gent's dress size measures 35mm wide (not including crown) by 45mm long by 10mm thick to the top of the crystal. The all-stainless steel 2-piece case features the trademark twisted lugs of this era with stepped bezel and water resistant heavy polygon screwed back. The case has marks from the years and also appears to have been lightly polished to my eyes. Still the lugs are very thick, the edges are still sharp enough, the sides remain flat and the bezel distinct. There are certainly some nicks & scratches, as this watch was clearly worn and enjoyed throughout its life, but the case is still in Very Good+ vintage condition. The caseback is in Excellent+ and apparently unpolished condition with only minor marks and very sharp Polerouter logo engraving. The small model number of 204607-1 and 2.1 million serial number are typically lightly stamped but perfectly legible on the exterior (though a loupe helps!). The inner case has negligible corrosion and all Universal nomenclature of the period is present, including Huguenin Freres' "HF" case maker’s signature.

DIAL & HANDS: Lovely 2-piece black crosshair dial with applied logo, framed oblong date window and textured silver exterior hour track. These Polerouter gilt/gloss dial are notorious for deterioration and this one has some crazing to the lacquer surface, a few light age spots and one small area of flaking between the center post and POLEROUTER DATE. However, all the original factory gilt printing is crisp, the machined outer track is very clean and bright and the dial itself registers as nice and black to the eye. So not perfect but still a very attractive and Excellent unrestored vintage Polerouter dial. This is an uncommon non-luminous version, as well, so there are no luminous dots. Original matching non-luminous Alpha-style white metal hour and minute hands also show a bit of age with a slight kink towards the end of the minute hand — likewise Excellent condition, as is the baton sweep seconds hand. All that said, on the wrist this Polerouter dial is a classy stunner with timeless vintage appeal.

MOVEMENT: Beautifully finished rhodium plated UG cal. 218-2 Microtor automatic movement with a whopping 28-jewels and shock protection. Along with Buren, Universal pioneered the concept of a micro-rotor winding system to save height, one that was revived by Patek Philippe in the modern era to obviously great acclaim (and expense!). I never did get around to servicing this watch so its history is unknown to me. However, the watch has always run well since I’ve owned it and it keeps very good time with strong power reserve and correct date changeover, both semi-quick when setting and near midnight when running normally. This is guaranteed to be the case at the time of shipping.

CROWN: Correct (I assume) Universal-signed knurled steel crown is very clean and in Excellent cosmetic condition. It sits flush within its little cutout in the case side, winds smoothly and pulls out to the non-hack time setting position exactly as it should.

CRYSTAL: This thick high-sided acrylic crystal does not have the UG logo in the middle so I assume it is aftermarket, although it might just pre-date that practice for all I know. It is very clear and shows only minor light marks with no chips or crazing — easily Excellent+ condition. There are a few visible fibers that have stuck to the underside, which should be a quick cleanup for a qualified watchmaker.

BAND: This great Polerouter comes on a high quality and lightly used deBeer Paris black leather strap with lizard grain in Excellent condition with generic steel buckle. This lug width is a bit strange in that it is essentially between 18 and 19mm but not precisely either. I found it expedient to put on an 18mm strap but you can make a 19mm work, as well.

As a matter if policy I make NO guarantees for the water resistance of this watch in any way, shape or form.

This classic vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter is offered with a 3-day inspection period from the date of receipt and may be returned for a full refund less any shipping costs incurred by the buyer. This refund is unconditional and once I get the watch back in exactly the same condition as it was sent to you, your money will be refunded. Of course, once the 3 days are over the sale will be considered FINAL.

Thanks for looking,
T.
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