Case clamps for a 168.022

[GuiltyGear]

Hi all. I need a pair of case clamps and screws for an Omega Seamaster 168.022 (-67 if that makes a difference) with a cal 564. Have seen a few variations for that caliber and not really sure what's the right one. Would greatly appreciate some help.

 

[DON]

Best to post your location.

If you email a parts supplier and clamps not discontinued. Just mention the reference number on the inside case back and caliber

Jules borel, Otto Frei. Canada - W H Perrin and UK - Cousins

 

[kaplan]

mikeswatchparts on eBay is pretty awesome too, I think I got 20 pairs of clamps and screws from him

The indices can be restored too but you need a steady handed painter

 

[GuiltyGear]

DON

Best to post your location.

If you email a parts supplier and clamps not discontinued. Just mention the reference number on the inside case back and caliber

Jules borel, Otto Frei. Canada - W H Perrin and UK - Cousins

East Europe. Jules Borel and Cousins don't have any clamps for the reference. Otto Frei I know ships internationally, but that site is too hard to navigate.

 

[GuiltyGear]

kaplan

mikeswatchparts on eBay is pretty awesome too, I think I got 20 pairs of clamps and screws from him

The indices can be restored too but you need a steady handed painter

Sent him a message. He didn't have any listed, but just in case.

I was thinking about the indices when posting the photo. That is something I may see myself doing after a while and lots of practice on "trash" dials. If done right, would painting just the indices be considered fine? Or it's still considered a partial redial?

 

[DON]

Try Perrins. I helped a German member on another forum years ago and they shipped to him

however. If those two didn’t have. Parts could discontinued. Find one and get them made

 

[Archer]

Clamp is 72205501974

Case screw is 1072255

 

[GuiltyGear]

Archer

Clamp is 72205501974

Case screw is 1072255

You are a legend. Thanks a lot. I had the suspicion it was clamp 1974, but no clue what the screw may be.

 

[GuiltyGear]

kaplan

mikeswatchparts on eBay is pretty awesome too, I think I got 20 pairs of clamps and screws from him

mikeswatchparts had both the clamp and screw Archer pointed out. Saved the seller; thanks for the suggestion.

 

[kaplan]

GuiltyGear

Sent him a message. He didn't have any listed, but just in case.

I was thinking about the indices when posting the photo. That is something I may see myself doing after a while and lots of practice on "trash" dials. If done right, would painting just the indices be considered fine? Or it's still considered a partial redial?

I don't know about a redial but if done well, it will definitely improve the looks 10X - keep in mind that the original finish is matte

I've done it a 2 times however it was always singular tiny spots - you can technically replace those indices as well, or even replace the dial, so not much risk there compared to the case value - I suggest approaching the task dot by dot, as long as you don't go over to the sides (or wipe fast) it should yield a good result

 

[kaplan]

Actually thinking about it now, it won't be a redial, but rather a refinish - at endgame levels one could remove all dial furniture and refinish the top layer uniformly, or even come up with a micro printer to do it on the dial

One comparable task is gilt or matte black dials being relumed or re-lacquered, I think it's considered restoration in the case of re-lacquering

I think in this case it can be considered an aesthetic patch, since it's added material, it can always be removed and re-done better as well

 

[GuiltyGear]

You're right, it would be a restoration. Pretty much like paintings are restored with archival paint.

I have absolutely no experience in this department, but I can imagine that first removing the indices, if that's possible without ruining it, would make it much easier. Then patiently masking and applying paint. What kind of paint, if it needs primer or a clear coat layer, micro brushes, etc, is stuff I can probably figure out.

Very interesting. Research time!

 

[kaplan]

From experience I can tell you that the best course is just getting experience with a loupe and a tiny brush, it yields the best result

My first approach was using reverse dot masks, basically a small dot hole on a non-adhesive masking paper, and then using that hole to safely leave a dot in a singular spot

But ultimately just using surface adhesion and being careful yields a better result - you can't realistically mask such a tiny item even if you removed the furniture, and it looks so bad after you remove the mask

And on this specific dial, now that my brain kicked in, removing the furniture requires re-luming the dots too, it's a world of hurt

The chemicals around lume removal is as far as I know a trade secret, relumers do it safely but I haven't seen anyone tell what chemicals they use that doesn't affect the lacquer of the dial yet safely removes the lume binder

 

[GuiltyGear]

Really nice tips. I'm a long way to even think about attempting such a fix. In the meantime, I have some practice dials which I can try stuff on.