In other words, what is the correct name for the little round part that secures the subdial (bloody autocorrect) hands to the stem?

If you look at the photo below, the centre part of the hands on the seconds and minute registers is missing from the hand on the hour register. I have no idea what it's called (I'd have thought it was a collet) and so searching for it is proving impossible.



The thought has just struck me that it's actually part of the hand which may mean I have to find another one. Perhaps one of the watchmaker's here could weigh in or anyone else who's taken one of these apart?

 

The hands fit to the "cannon pinion" but not sure if it's called that on the subdials.

Your luck, the dumbest guy on the forum is the first to answer!

 

Hey, the words cannon and pinion point to the fact that you know more about this than me!

 

the hands are secuured to there pinions

 

You make me swell up with pride, big boy!
I've been here for 5 years and don't know Jack.
Some have 5 years experience and some have 1 year's experience 5 times over.

 

If I'm understanding correctly, you mean the little round part on the top side of the subdial hands. Visible on the seconds subdial here, but the hour one seems to be flat. Correct?

 

The hand is made of two parts. The flat part and a tube. The flat part is riveted to the tube, and the small ring is the top of the tube that has been spread to form the rivet. It's not a separate part, so it's part of the tube...

Cheers, Al

 

@Archer, I know the three hands have different pinion sizes, but is the hour hand typically different? Flatter?

 

Construction is all the same. The one in that photo looks like the round flat portion has been bent upwards when the hand was removed.

 

Ah ha! I won't quote each individual reply above but thank you - that now all makes perfect sense!

Given that I'm sure this thing left the spa in perfect working condition last week but the chrono hour Reg hand doesn't reset correctly now it's back home, I'm guessing that the hand no longer gives a good fit on the pinion and needs a replacement?

Sounds like I'm going to be posting another "WTB" in the near future!

 

I think your problem can be fixed quite easily using a method I've seen used in the past (by a certain eBay seller ).



Of course my post is in jest (can somebody whack a defibrillator on Al's chest PLEASE ).

The tube (or pipe as I've also seen it called) could be split or incorrectly enlarged but it may be salvageable, this is where youneed the skills of a competent watchmaker.

Good luck with it.

Cheers

Jim

 

The most competent of watch makers just returned the watch ... (no, not Al). It's not the end of the world. By rights I should let him know and give him the opportunity to re-repair but I get more worried having watches like this in transit than I am about the defect itself. I have a very good vintage watch repairer who is closer to me so I might just ask him to rectify it when he comes back from his holiday.

 

I was always under the impression that the pipe on the hour register hand on pre 63 Speedmasters was not as pronounced or totally flat.
Thanks, Michael

 

I don't know the answer to that without digging out lots of photos later today. I suppose that was part of the reason for asking here of those members that have been much more "hands on" with these early references.

 

Like all these things there are certainly variations, but the basic construction is the same with all these hands.

There are a number of problems with the hand that can cause this, but it depends on what you mean by doesn't reset correctly. If it resets to the same spot each time, but is not centered, then that's just an error in setting the hand on. If it resets to random places, it can either be the tube being too loose on the post, or the rivet is loose. The rivet being loose will cause the hand to flop around as you move the watch from side to side sometimes depending on how loose it is.

The pipe for the hour recorder hand is pretty robust, so it's not likely split. So it can be tightened and I typically use the lathe for this. I select the correct sized collet:



Place the hand in and slowly tighten the collet:



The lathe is never turned on - just using the collet to clamp evenly on all side of the tube to tighten it. You can also use a collet closing tool (and there are versions made just for closing hands as well), but I prefer the lathe personally. The most common hand I tighten is the chronograph seconds recorder as shown above...



If the rivet is loose, I use the staking set to hold the hand, and use a very sharply ground punch that comes to a fine point. That point is inserted into the hole in the tube at the top of the hand, and a very light tap (light tap with a pair of tweezers is plenty) will spread the rivet slightly and tighten the 2 parts back together.

These are very common fixes applied to hands...unless you work for a brand service center and there you just walk to a drawer and pull out a new hand...

Cheers, Al

 

@Archer - thank you for yet another very detailed explanation. In this instance, the hand resets somewhere between the 10 and 2 o'clock mark but does not flop around. I'll get her re-fixed in due course.

 

Everytime I think .... "ok another member is going down an OCD bunny hole..." ... our tech experts weigh in and I learn something new.

 

Your solution is a bit to permanent fro me, I prefer to fill the tube of the hand with Rodico.