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Calling all Pocket Watch Buffs

Canuck
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Circa 1917-18, so well over 100 years old. A quite substantial movement, very reliable, but not highly adjusted. 15 jewel model, plenty of them made, and they appear frequently here on the pocket watch thread. The dial is vitreous enamel, and as is often the case, it shows some hairlines, the result likely of falls, or major bumps. It would look a lot better with a cleaning while you have it off the watch. I am confused by the case colour shown in your photos, but I assume it is nickel silver. A copper/nickel alloy, with no silver content in the alloy.
 
TexOmega
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I wouldn't be surprised if that is an original moon hand
 
JimInOz
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I agree with your conclusions, the lack of keyless works on the dial side indicate a NN.
Brevet 26513, "Advanced pendant winding and time setting mechanism" was issued to Societe Anonyme Louis Brandt & Frere in September 1903.

The movement number and case number date the watch to ca 1918.
 
JimInOz
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TexOmega TexOmega
I wouldn't be surprised if that is an original moon hand
I agree, however Omega referred to them as "Empire" hands, as they also did with the "Empire" numerals on this dial.
 
Rune
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Canuck Canuck
Circa 1917-18, so well over 100 years old. A quite substantial movement, very reliable, but not highly adjusted. 15 jewel model, plenty of them made, and they appear frequently here on the pocket watch thread. The dial is vitreous enamel, and as is often the case, it shows some hairlines, the result likely of falls, or major bumps. It would look a lot better with a cleaning while you have it off the watch. I am confused by the case colour shown in your photos, but I assume it is nickel silver. A copper/nickel alloy, with no silver content in the alloy.
Yes its a nickel/copper alloy i think looks green/grey.I will shine it up after i get the right hands.And not a original moon hand(dond`t know what that is but its just one i had laying around and it`s to big anyway😅)
 
JimInOz
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Rune Rune
And not a original moon hand
Close match to an Empire hands, maybe of a smaller caliber?
 
Canuck
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I’ve also heard that hand style called “Breguet”.
 
JimInOz
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Canuck Canuck
I’ve also heard that hand style called “Breguet”.
I think Breguet was the original user of that style and many references use this term.
I suspect Omega wanted to avoid using another watchmakers terms and came up with their own.

Although now that Swatch Group now own Breguet, Omega could use the term without fear.

😉

Screenshot 2025-02-03 at 13.40.36.webp
 
Rune
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It`s the crystal that`s all scratched up so the dial looks verry bad.It looks good,there is small chip on the top but not visible under the crystal
20250202_234617.webp
 
Rune
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This hand is the right one but not the right size.
 
JimInOz
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Good result. Vitreous enamel dials can be cleaned (taking due care, a new crystal and hands and this will be a looker.
 
Rune
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And its actually a hair on the dial😂
 
Rune
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Thanks for the replys its getting late here in norway😴🥱
 
JimInOz
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Rune Rune
This hand is the right one but not the right size.
As the watch dates to 1918 I would think Breguet/Empire hands would be contemporary.
The simpler leaf hands seem to appear around the late 1920 to 1930 or so.
However, AJTT shows both styles existing about 1930, so who knows.
 
Bernhard J
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Canuck Canuck
I think I inferred from your post that the subject watch was bought by Breguet from the named maker. If that is the case, I find it odd that the watch is not named as a Breguet, even with the name of the maker marked on the dial. Was this a common practice by Breguet?
Breguet had bought movements, both, finished and unfinished, from other makers, in particular Decombaz, and then "badged" these as "Breguet". This becomes evident from the Breguet records.

In this case this particular watch/movement had not been bought by Breguet, but was sold "directly" by Decombaz to a customer. And consequently signed "Decombaz". The cuvette has the additional signature "Repassee par Breguet" and I am unsure about the exact meaning. Some think that it means "as delivered to Breguet", but I am not sure about that.

Perhaps a French native speaker knows better?

Cheers, Bernhard
 
Bernhard J
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Canuck Canuck
The outer case…..vitreous enamel? Tortoise shell? Niello? My guess is vitreous enamel. Made during an era when watchmakers actually made watches. Cudos to Henry Jones, and to @Bernhard J for preserving it and bringing it to us.
The outer case is silver and is covered with tortoise shell. The decorative elements are silver inlays in the tortoise shell.
 
Canuck
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The grade 900 happens to be (in my opinion) probably the best looking 12-size Hamilton. Here is the pocketwatchdatabase listing of this handsome model of Hamilton. Gold train wheels, adjusted to 5 positions, (8 adjustments), pendant set. This one is from the first run of the grade 900, so an early one, the 307th one out of a run of 11,000. It has everything that the grade 952 (for example) has, but because it is pendant set and 12-size, it was not considered railroad grade. Generally, the hinged case was frowned on for railroad use, but Webb Ball got away with hinged cases, and he was the guru of railroad watch standards. A watch to be very proud of!
The pocketwatchdatabase listing shows the first run of the grade 900 being for 11,000 watches which I thought might be a misprint. The serial number/grade listing in the Hamilton records confirms it was a run of 11,000!

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/hamilton/1759306
Edited:
 
Guy0783
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I agree 100%. Another 19j, the 996 is my vote for most attractive 16s.
 
Canuck
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Guy0783 Guy0783
I agree 100%. Another 19j, the 996 is my vote for most attractive 16s.

I mentioned the grade 952 in my post. It too is a beautiful movement. And scarce! I recently had a chance to buy a Hamilton grade 996. I had waited for someone else who had dibs on it to make up his mind. He diddled and fiddled around while making up his mind. The seller tired of waiting and shipped it off to auction!

P2258584.webp
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