Breaking News: The New Steel Speedmaster With Caliber 321 “Ed White”

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I doubt the chrono24 sellers actually have the watch. Why would you not use photos of the actual watch in the listing if it’s legit?
The U.K. seller does have it apparently. it’s in the vault and ready to ship. The cheeky sods then sent me a purchase offer straight after.....
 
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The cheeky sods

I love that. Can’t wait to use it with my American buddies, just to hear them say, “What?”
 
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So I promised to write a few more words on my recent pick-up, the 321 Speedy. Here we go:

As a disclaimer, I will not go too much in the technical details of the watch, as most of it has been said by far more knowledgeable and Omega-savvy fellows already. Also, my photography skills are very limited, I tried my best to come up with few, nice-to-look-at pictures. Impossible to beat Yokozuna's beauty above 😀.

However this will be a bit more than just about the 321. As ‘coincidence’ – or luck – has it, I was able not only to pick up this top-end model from Omega’s Speedmaster lineup just yesterday, but two weeks ago I was called by my AD that my White Dial Rolex Daytona 116500LN has finally arrived.

Both watches I have been looking for very much for a long time, both watches were not clear when they would finally arrive, and – surprise – both did in the span of two weeks. Luckily, and I understand how privileged I am, I was also able financially to get both in such a short time span. And while writing these lines, I think we all learned more than ever before this year that there are for more important things in live to be grateful about than some pieces of expensive steel.

While these watches in real life could not be more different, on paper they are very similar: Steel case with bracelet, ceramic tachymeter bezel, chronograph, no date, similar price tag, racing inspired history. Further, both I believe are the ‘Halo’ pieces of the two leading (by volume) luxury watch brands currently out there. Hence, I will give it a go and contrast them.



First of all: what’s my story with watches?

I am a complete Speedmaster fanatic. I discovered this model, and even more Omega itself, when buying a used Gemini IV speedy years ago, at times where prices were much lower than today.

Having worn a panda-dial Breilting Navitimer as my first luxury watch until then for many years, I fell in love with the blue panda-dial of the Speedy Gemini IV and acquired a used one from a nearby second-hand store (vintage was not really a word back then).

Many other Speedies followed. I would say I am a collector of modern-era, limited edition (or rare) Speedmasters. However, I was always very open to other brands as well, especially JLC or older models of some out-of-fashion brands such as for example Ebel. Rolex was special for me in a different way: the Daytona is the first Rolex I own. While I was tempted to buy others, maybe a Datejust 41 or a ‘simple’ Oyster 39 (precursor of the Stellas), I knew always that these would be a mere bridge to make the wait for a Daytona easier. Other sports models (BLNR, Hulk, Kermit) do not really fit my wrist somehow. I actually turned down the offer to buy a Pepsi at retail 2 years ago. I buy my watches to keep them, so I only buy what I like. That in turn also improves my relationships with my AD and the OB I buy Omega from.

So how could I get these sought-after models after all?

“He must be spending a lot of $$$ on other watches and jewelry at his AD and OB” you might think. Both is not true. While with the OB I have indeed purchased a fair number of Omegas over the past years (i.e. SpeedyTuesday I and II, a CK2998, the 60th anniversary Speedy), I am sure there are MANY other customers who have higher total revenue there. I never bought anything in PM for example. Similarly, I got to know ‘my’ AD when searching the market for a NOS Apollo-Soyuz Speedy years ago, and luckily, he had still one. He was keeping it to either buy it himself some day or sell it to a real Speedmaster fan. This single purchase turned into a good (non-commercial) friendship of two likeminded people who are passionate about watches and allowed me to pick up the Daytona recently. So if you think “I will never be able to get hands on either of those”: I strongly believe that if you build good, honest relationships with dealers, that share your passion for watches, and have no habit of flipping what you buy – this will allow you to get access to these much-wanted pieces much more easily.

Which watch is more special to me (if any)?

Very difficult to answer. Both are iconic in their own way. Let’s start with the Daytona.

The 116500LN was, as said, my first-ever Rolex. And I must say, it feels VERY special, and while the brand itself I perceive as way less innovative than Omega, the build quality of the watch is just stellar.

It feels robust but at the same time refined. The Oyster case with its beautifully round shapes feels so nice in your hand. The bracelet is beautifully polished, very precise (the clasp!) and feels super solid. Few things will be able to destroy this watch it seems.



The overall result of buying the Daytona was that I am already looking forward to a second one, the White Gold version with silver Panda Dial. In my opinion this is the most beautiful dial in the Daytona range and on the Oysterflex (or Alligator strap, as I would wear it) a completely different watch than the steel version.

The 321 on the other hand caused a different reaction altogether. It is very simply a piece of art. Clearly the most ‘refined’ Speedmaster I own. It feels much more fragile (it isn’t for sure) to me than the asymmetric shaped Speedies but also compared to the 60th anniversary model that has a similar design arguably (but feels much less refined). Build quality is stellar: the strap is slim but sturdy, the dial wonderfully executed (the font is SO crisp) and the enamel-ceramic-bezel very luxurious and special to look at.

Finally, as RJB has pointed out in his review, Omega got the Sapphire Cristal right this time. I would not want this watch with a Hesalite, while I usually prefer it on other Speedmasters.



To me it feels like build quality and precision on the new cases (this 321, or also the 50th year anniversary Steel Speedy) is even better than on the 'old', soon-to-be-replaced 1861 models. Maybe this is just subjective or my quest to justify the prices of these newer models, but everything from case to bracelet just feels great



The movement… nothing to add more but that it looks stunning in the flesh. Archer would maybe object that also on my watch the regulator is not centered coming from the factory. Well, I don’t care too much, as long as it looks that nice. The anti-reflective coating on the see-through sapphire case back is stunning and it seems that you can touch the movement almost.



Now while the Daytona has immediately drawn me to think about when to buy another white gold model on top, the 321 is so good that I am not sure if I ‘need’ many more 3861 Speedmasters. If I would believe in the concept of exit-watches, this 321 could well it. It is not flashy, will not be recognized on the street (compared to a Daytona) and yet it is a beauty from both sides for those who know.

Both the 321 and Daytona are – for me – perfect and unique in their own ways. True keepers, for sure, that deserve their places in the “hall of fame” for mechanical timepieces.
 
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So I promised to write a few more words on my recent pick-up, the 321 Speedy. Here we go:

As a disclaimer, I will not go too much in the technical details of the watch, as most of it has been said by far more knowledgeable and Omega-savvy fellows already. Also, my photography skills are very limited, I tried my best to come up with few, nice-to-look-at pictures. Impossible to beat Yokozuna's beauty above 😀.

However this will be a bit more than just about the 321. As ‘coincidence’ – or luck – has it, I was able not only to pick up this top-end model from Omega’s Speedmaster lineup just yesterday, but two weeks ago I was called by my AD that my White Dial Rolex Daytona 116500LN has finally arrived.

Both watches I have been looking for very much for a long time, both watches were not clear when they would finally arrive, and – surprise – both did in the span of two weeks. Luckily, and I understand how privileged I am, I was also able financially to get both in such a short time span. And while writing these lines, I think we all learned more than ever before this year that there are for more important things in live to be grateful about than some pieces of expensive steel.

While these watches in real life could not be more different, on paper they are very similar: Steel case with bracelet, ceramic tachymeter bezel, chronograph, no date, similar price tag, racing inspired history. Further, both I believe are the ‘Halo’ pieces of the two leading (by volume) luxury watch brands currently out there. Hence, I will give it a go and contrast them.



First of all: what’s my story with watches?

I am a complete Speedmaster fanatic. I discovered this model, and even more Omega itself, when buying a used Gemini IV speedy years ago, at times where prices were much lower than today.

Having worn a panda-dial Breilting Navitimer as my first luxury watch until then for many years, I fell in love with the blue panda-dial of the Speedy Gemini IV and acquired a used one from a nearby second-hand store (vintage was not really a word back then).

Many other Speedies followed. I would say I am a collector of modern-era, limited edition (or rare) Speedmasters. However, I was always very open to other brands as well, especially JLC or older models of some out-of-fashion brands such as for example Ebel. Rolex was special for me in a different way: the Daytona is the first Rolex I own. While I was tempted to buy others, maybe a Datejust 41 or a ‘simple’ Oyster 39 (precursor of the Stellas), I knew always that these would be a mere bridge to make the wait for a Daytona easier. Other sports models (BLNR, Hulk, Kermit) do not really fit my wrist somehow. I actually turned down the offer to buy a Pepsi at retail 2 years ago. I buy my watches to keep them, so I only buy what I like. That in turn also improves my relationships with my AD and the OB I buy Omega from.

So how could I get these sought-after models after all?

“He must be spending a lot of $$$ on other watches and jewelry at his AD and OB” you might think. Both is not true. While with the OB I have indeed purchased a fair number of Omegas over the past years (i.e. SpeedyTuesday I and II, a CK2998, the 60th anniversary Speedy), I am sure there are MANY other customers who have higher total revenue there. I never bought anything in PM for example. Similarly, I got to know ‘my’ AD when searching the market for a NOS Apollo-Soyuz Speedy years ago, and luckily, he had still one. He was keeping it to either buy it himself some day or sell it to a real Speedmaster fan. This single purchase turned into a good (non-commercial) friendship of two likeminded people who are passionate about watches and allowed me to pick up the Daytona recently. So if you think “I will never be able to get hands on either of those”: I strongly believe that if you build good, honest relationships with dealers, that share your passion for watches, and have no habit of flipping what you buy – this will allow you to get access to these much-wanted pieces much more easily.

Which watch is more special to me (if any)?

Very difficult to answer. Both are iconic in their own way. Let’s start with the Daytona.

The 116500LN was, as said, my first-ever Rolex. And I must say, it feels VERY special, and while the brand itself I perceive as way less innovative than Omega, the build quality of the watch is just stellar.

It feels robust but at the same time refined. The Oyster case with its beautifully round shapes feels so nice in your hand. The bracelet is beautifully polished, very precise (the clasp!) and feels super solid. Few things will be able to destroy this watch it seems.



The overall result of buying the Daytona was that I am already looking forward to a second one, the White Gold version with silver Panda Dial. In my opinion this is the most beautiful dial in the Daytona range and on the Oysterflex (or Alligator strap, as I would wear it) a completely different watch than the steel version.

The 321 on the other hand caused a different reaction altogether. It is very simply a piece of art. Clearly the most ‘refined’ Speedmaster I own. It feels much more fragile (it isn’t for sure) to me than the asymmetric shaped Speedies but also compared to the 60th anniversary model that has a similar design arguably (but feels much less refined). Build quality is stellar: the strap is slim but sturdy, the dial wonderfully executed (the font is SO crisp) and the enamel-ceramic-bezel very luxurious and special to look at.

Finally, as RJB has pointed out in his review, Omega got the Sapphire Cristal right this time. I would not want this watch with a Hesalite, while I usually prefer it on other Speedmasters.



To me it feels like build quality and precision on the new cases (this 321, or also the 50th year anniversary Steel Speedy) is even better than on the 'old', soon-to-be-replaced 1861 models. Maybe this is just subjective or my quest to justify the prices of these newer models, but everything from case to bracelet just feels great



The movement… nothing to add more but that it looks stunning in the flesh. Archer would maybe object that also on my watch the regulator is not centered coming from the factory. Well, I don’t care too much, as long as it looks that nice. The anti-reflective coating on the see-through sapphire case back is stunning and it seems that you can touch the movement almost.



Now while the Daytona has immediately drawn me to think about when to buy another white gold model on top, the 321 is so good that I am not sure if I ‘need’ many more 3861 Speedmasters. If I would believe in the concept of exit-watches, this 321 could well it. It is not flashy, will not be recognized on the street (compared to a Daytona) and yet it is a beauty from both sides for those who know.

Both the 321 and Daytona are – for me – perfect and unique in their own ways. True keepers, for sure, that deserve their places in the “hall of fame” for mechanical timepieces.
I don’t think you need much more than those 2 really! Fantastic pieces
 
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Both the Daytona and Speedmaster set at 10:10 you can see which is the easiest of the two to read the time on.😗
 
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@angschte thanks for the writeup.

This question might seem unusual. Whould you consider purchasing a new Snoopy?

I am curious how a collector such as yourself feels about the snoopy. Perhaps I shouldn't compare the Ed White with the Snoopy but the price point and difficulty in getting one begs for comparison, even more so for a limited budget.

Thanks again.
 
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@angschte thanks for the writeup.

This question might seem unusual. Whould you consider purchasing a new Snoopy?

I am curious how a collector such as yourself feels about the snoopy. Perhaps I shouldn't compare the Ed White with the Snoopy but the price point and difficulty in getting one begs for comparison, even more so for a limited budget.

Thanks again.

You're welcome. Good question: I really like the Snoopies in general and I likely will also get the new one. Likely as my general rule is to see a watch in the flesh and then decide.

On availability however I expect Snoopy III to be much easier to get than the Ed White in the near future. Time will tell, but I think Omega will make Snoopy III quite widely available also for their own commercial benefit.

Being a collector and luckily having had good access to limited edition models, I appreciate that Omega nowadays launches fewer limited editions. It was becoming a joke on how many different LEs they launched (Tokyo 2020 being the peak) and flippers 'taking away' allocations from people who actually wear the watch.
 
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I picked mine up this week (Northern CA) and was going to write a few words about it, but I think they’ve already been said well here. @angschte nailed it by saying “it’s the most refined speedy”. The Crystal, case and bracelet are excellent. I was not one of the people going crazy about the 321 when it was announced (I’m more interested in the future- the 3861, in my Apollo 50th), but I’m glad I got a chance on this, because I think it’s a simply wonderful execution of a unique idea.
 
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While I'm more than satisfied with my 3570.50.00 and won't be buying another Speedmaster, I must say, I love the photo of the movement and prefer the bracelet style of Ed White.
 
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I picked mine up this week (Northern CA) and was going to write a few words about it, but I think they’ve already been said well here. @angschte nailed it by saying “it’s the most refined speedy”. The Crystal, case and bracelet are excellent. I was not one of the people going crazy about the 321 when it was announced (I’m more interested in the future- the 3861, in my Apollo 50th), but I’m glad I got a chance on this, because I think it’s a simply wonderful execution of a unique idea.

Congratulations!!!

If you don't mind, please share how many watches you had previously purchased from your OB to get this allocation? Any precious metal? Trying to make sense of out what they mean by VVIP allocations in the US.
 
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Congratulations!!!

If you don't mind, please share how many watches you had previously purchased from your OB to get this allocation? Any precious metal? Trying to make sense of out what they mean by VVIP allocations in the US.
Thanks! Yes, well... I probably fit the bill. I have a very good relationship with the boutique and have bought quite a few watches over the last 7 years, including a platinum globemaster and the moonshine Apollo 50th. I haven’t really been following the roll out, I just came back to this thread after picking it up mostly to say that it really exceeded my expectations. Hopefully they start to roll them out more steadily soon!
 
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Thanks! Yes, well... I probably fit the bill. I have a very good relationship with the boutique and have bought quite a few watches over the last 7 years, including a platinum globemaster and the moonshine Apollo 50th. I haven’t really been following the roll out, I just came back to this thread after picking it up mostly to say that it really exceeded my expectations. Hopefully they start to roll them out more steadily soon!
This will definitely put you in the VIP club. Any platinum Omega model will do that since they don't sell very well.
 
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Thanks! Yes, well... I probably fit the bill. I have a very good relationship with the boutique and have bought quite a few watches over the last 7 years, including a platinum globemaster and the moonshine Apollo 50th. I haven’t really been following the roll out, I just came back to this thread after picking it up mostly to say that it really exceeded my expectations. Hopefully they start to roll them out more steadily soon!

Thank you for your reply. Makes sense to me...

It is a lovely watch. Can't wait to see one in person!
 
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Is that a Casio on Mr.Forster's left wrist during the review? ... 😀
 
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Just posted the following on another forum as someone was trying to compare the 321 to the latest Snoopy.

To me they are completely different animals. Whilst I respect the fun/tribute aspect of the Snoopy's, I have always found them a bit "gimmicky". Don't get me wrong, these are nicely executed watches and highly collectible, yet I don't find them classy - in particular the latest one. I know this is not intended to be a dress watch, but I would not wear this blue thing on a suit at work.

On the other end, the 321 is almost a grail watch to me. Compact size, low thickness, legendary movement, comes with a bracelet, less flashy yet timeless and much more versatile. I own quite a few watches, but strangely since I picked up my 321, now is the first time I am considering selling a few of them, keeping only the ones that truly matter to me, e.g. my father's vintage JLC. And this 321, as it is clearly something special.
 
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Nice - is that the stock bracelet. Looks almost all brushed in that photo....

Yes, OEM bracelet. Probably the lighting.