Breaking News: The New Steel Speedmaster With Caliber 321 “Ed White”

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I was under the impression that column-wheel systems were more complex than cam-actuated - both in the actual design / deployment as well as servicing... or am I wrong about that... 🤔

Speaking of which - for those above wondering why even bother with revisiting the 321; well aside from the historical perspective, I'd really like to have a column-wheel based chronograph* in my humble collection... 🥰

Sidebar:
*Some in current-production I know of and like (in SS only): Vacheron Constantin 2019's Cornes de Vache 1955 in SS (€40K), Blancpain's 2019 Air Command (€19K and limited to 500pcs), Zenith El Primero (€7.5K), Breitling Navitimer B01 (€8K), Tudor Heritage BB Chrono (€5K), Sinn 910 SRS (€4.5K, heavily modded 7750), Longines Single Push-Piece (€3K).

Aside from of course, the new Omega 321, what other current-production column-wheel-based chronographs (in SS only) have caught your attention...?
Column wheel chronographs are not that rare, they used to be the standard construction for a chronograph mechanism. Besides the ones you mentioned there is the Rolex 4130 and the Frederic Piguet 1185 iterations. And the Breitling B09 (manual version of the B01).

El Primero's and F. Piguet's can be easily found on the used market for not too much money under various manufacturers. And you can find really nice ones with supremely finished Lemania movements (VC, Dubuis, Breguet and others) in gold cases from the early 21st century for about what the new Ed White is going to cost you. The finishing on these watches blows Omega's finishing into the weeds.
Edited:
 
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Column wheel chronographs are not that rare, they used to be the standard construction for a chronograph mechanism. Besides the ones you mentioned there is the Rolex 4130 and the Frederic Piguet 1185 iterations. And the Breitling B09 (manual version of the B01).

El Primero's and F. Piguet's can be easily found on the used market for not too much money under various manufacturers. And you can find really nice ones with supremely finished Lemania movements (VC, Dubuis, Breguet and others) in gold cases from the early 21st century for about what the new Ed White is going to cost you. The finishing on these watches blows Omega's finishing into the weeds.


What about the seagull movement in the 1963, cost you about 200 bucks and scratch the column wheel itch
 
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Aside from of course, the new Omega 321, what other current-production column-wheel-based chronographs (in SS only) have caught your attention...?
The 9900 co-ax found in the Racing 44 has a column wheel, vertical clutch and is METAS certified.
 
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T T3F
I’m pretty bummed because I had a few totally unrelated things come up that took my focus off of watches for a few days, and it stinks that a 48-hour delay in putting down a deposit might cost me a year as far as getting this watch, but it is what it is with these things.
If you haven't yet, make sure you subscribe to the Omega newsletter. When I saw the email, I went on here and this thread had 4 replies.
There might be a couple more Speedmaster releases of your interest coming up in the coming month, so it might be worth subscribing now.
 
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I was under the impression that column-wheel systems were more complex than cam-actuated - both in the actual design / deployment as well as servicing... or am I wrong about that... 🤔

Yes, you are wrong about that. The added labour to service a column wheel v a cam is pretty much non-existent.

Cheers, Al
 
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Amazed at all the folks giving Omega an interest free loan for an indeterminate period of time. ::facepalm1::
 
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Perhaps also worth pointing out that many of the modern automatic column wheel chronograph movements such as the B01, 4130, 9900 also have a vertical clutch, which does not suffer from the jarring start of the chronograph hand.

The 321 is a column wheel movement that works with a lateral/horizontal clutch, so will still have the jumping hand when you start the chronograph, similar to the 1861. I would argue that the only functional gain from the 1861 to the 321 movement is having to use less force to engage the chronograph...well beyond the heritage factor, I really can't see the price justification for the 321 movement either from a performance factor or movement finishing perspective.

The 3861 from a functional perspective is superior to the 321, offering hacking seconds and the anti-magnetism of the Si14 balance spring. I would take both of these "features" over having to apply slightly less pressure on the chronograph button for the 321.
 
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Discussions of value as it applies to luxury watches make zero sense to me — all luxury watches are innately a terrible value when evaluated from a practical standpoint. If you want one, have the money, and are willing to pay the price Omega is asking, then go for it, and if not, then don’t.

Pretty bloody obvious that if you want something and have the money to purchase it, well you should just go ahead and purchase it.

However, it is clear that there is a significant amount of hubris in the way the Omega marketing machine is justifying the cost of the 321 SS. I certainly don't think it is worth the price point asked for by Omega, but I don't think they have any obligation to lower their price point either.

My opinion, which is subjective, is that there are much more interesting watches from other brands at the US$15K value.

If you think the heritage of the 321 movement in a modern Speedy case with a ceramic bezel is so significant, well I am sure you will get much enjoyment of the watch, whenever you receive it.😀
 
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If you think the heritage of the 321 movement in a modern Speedy case with a ceramic bezel is so significant, well I am sure you will get much enjoyment of the watch, whenever you receive it.

'Significant' may be a tad harsh.

All of your points, to me, are rationally unarguable. However, the decision to make a purchase, especially a high-ticket item, is often mired in very complex emotions and psychology. For me, a purchase of this watch makes no objective sense at the price point offered, given all the legitimate, objective points you raise. But...I still want one.
Edited:
 
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I really like this watch, and toyed with placing a deposit for one. My issues are, of course, the price, but also the sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel composition. That said, the cal 321, while arguably not any better than the 861/1861, is still the movement that was in those Speedmasters that were worn during all of those incredible feats in space (Schirra's Sigma 7 flight, the Ed White space walk, Apollo 11, etc.), and that's just incredibly cool.

The FOIS isn't exactly the same, but I bought mine for approximately 1/5 of what this one would cost. With a few swaps (dial from the '57 Replica, hands, and some sort of flat-link bracelet) I can have a pretty good Ed White riff for well under half the price. But yeah, if I had the cash, I would be on the list.
 
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Can you hack the 321?
You can hack the watch by applying backpressure to the crown when it is pulled out (i.e., slight torque CCW, more than zero but less than the torque it takes to move the hands backwards), which will stop the movement. The movement will resume when you release the backpressure.

The 321, 861, and 1861 all behave the same in this regard.

None of these movements have a separate crown position that stops the movement indefinitely, say for example how an Omega Planet Ocean does.
 
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It's in the ballpark I think. About 10% of the Apollo 11's came to the US, about 700 or so. Don't know how many of the SS ones will be made, maybe 1,500 a year? So I can see 100-150 coming to the US. I would expect production to be low to begin with in order to make sure everything is working.

I'm always a bit surprised of the ~10% allocation number for the US (I've heard that number before - however true it may be). For such a large economy, it seems the market for mechanical watches is just not as high as elsewhere in the world.
 
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For everyone surprised / disappointed / angry about the price point if this special cal 321 re-issue, please read about Veblen Goods.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veblen_good


Veblen goods are types of luxury goods for which the quantity demanded increases as the price increases, an apparent contradiction of the law of demand, resulting in an upward-sloping demand curve. A higher price may make a product desirable as a status symbol in the practices of conspicuous consumption and conspicuous leisure. A product may be a Veblen good because it is a positional good, something few others can own.

Veblen goods are named after American economist Thorstein Veblen, who first identified conspicuous consumption as a mode of status-seeking in The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899).[1] A corollary of the Veblen effect is that lowering the price decreases the quantity demanded.[2]

 
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For everyone surprised / disappointed / angry about the price point if this special cal 321 re-issue, please read about Veblen Goods.

I am not surprised / disappointed / angry with the pricing. Indeed I have to admit from a business perspective a certain admiration as to how well Omega is improving their relationship with their hardcore client base and are targeting specific releases at niche collectors.

I am familiar with Veblen goods price positioning, but I simply do not see the "status symbol" factor in the SS 321. It is clearly a WIS enthusiast watch, not a status symbol watch, and will fly completely under the radar as just another Speedmaster .

I can't really see any bragging rights on the SS 321 beyond a Red bar event, this is not a watch for someone who wants to show off conspicuous consumption. I think Omega have just put something together that is irresistible to a certain type of watch collector, and they know just how much profit they can get for that passion🥰

So I would argue that the SS 321 is not really a Veblen proposition, more of a "honey pot" watch, and it is fascinating to see how many intelligent and rational members of the OF have been "love struck" by this release.
 
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Got the same talk from the Houston, tx boutique. they dont' expect those at the top of the list (both in time and $$ spent at the boutique) to get watches before 2021!
Finally some honesty in expected delivery times!
 
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907192-1c29524fde67e6b8405263715a094e15.jpg

A modern replica of Gene Cernan's watch. I'm in. #1 on my AD's waiting list.
 
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...Sidebar:
*Some in current-production I know of and like (in SS only): Vacheron Constantin 2019's Cornes de Vache 1955 in SS (€40K), Blancpain's 2019 Air Command (€19K and limited to 500pcs), Zenith El Primero (€7.5K), Breitling Navitimer B01 (€8K), Tudor Heritage BB Chrono (€5K), Sinn 910 SRS (€4.5K, heavily modded 7750), Longines Single Push-Piece (€3K).

Aside from of course, the new Omega 321, what other current-production column-wheel-based chronographs (in SS only) have caught your attention...?

Column wheel chronographs are not that rare, they used to be the standard construction for a chronograph mechanism. Besides the ones you mentioned there is the Rolex 4130 and the Frederic Piguet 1185 iterations. And the Breitling B09 (manual version of the B01)...

Vix Vix
The 9900 co-ax found in the Racing 44 has a column wheel, vertical clutch and is METAS certified.

Perhaps also worth pointing out that many of the modern automatic column wheel chronograph movements such as the B01, 4130, 9900 also have a vertical clutch, which does not suffer from the jarring start of the chronograph hand.
The 321 is a column wheel movement that works with a lateral/horizontal clutch, so will still have the jumping hand when you start the chronograph, similar to the 1861. I would argue that the only functional gain from the 1861 to the 321 movement is having to use less force to engage the chronograph...well beyond the heritage factor, I really can't see the price justification for the 321 movement either from a performance factor or movement finishing perspective.
The 3861 from a functional perspective is superior to the 321, offering hacking seconds and the anti-magnetism of the Si14 balance spring. I would take both of these "features" over having to apply slightly less pressure on the chronograph button for the 321.

Thanks for your input, guys 😉 Regarding vertical vs. lateral vs. cams; a watchmaker suggested that as long as they are correctly adjusted, the start should be "relatively" clean. I was under the assumption the column-wheel solution would be harder to adjust / maintain, but according to Al (below) there seems to be no additional effort... .

BTW, I didn't mean to imply that my only interest in the 321 Ed White is the column-wheel system, but the 321 is certainly the main point (of a handful of points) that makes this reference exciting (to me) ::psy::

~~~

I was under the impression that column-wheel systems were more complex than cam-actuated - both in the actual design / deployment as well as servicing... or am I wrong about that... 🤔

Yes, you are wrong about that. The added labour to service a column wheel v a cam is pretty much non-existent. Cheers, Al
Thanks for clearing that up (for me) 👍

~~~

...taken from another thread...
Other than cool points, which is as good a reason as any, I have found one other reason why the 321 is better than the 861/1861 in the Moonwatch. It is debatable whether it is a good reason, but if you want your chrono hand to hit the 4 sub-second marks on the std Moonwatch dial, you need a movement that runs at 5 or 10Hz, the 861/1861 runs at 6Hz so only ever hits the full second mark, it misses the rest by design. They fix this on other Omega models by utilising either 2 intermediate marks for the 1861 and 3 marks for the 3313 and 930X/990X movements which run at 8Hz (as used in the Speedmaster '57/Racing) but the 1861 Moonwatch still uses an incorrect 4 mark pattern. See below for a comparison:

Current 1861 Moonwatch, wrong number of marks for 6Hz movement frequency:

904123-729fefc91fd5effebf01218893f51055.jpg

Silver Snoopy using correct 2 intermediate marks for the 1861

904124-e93605415743ff37b7388dfb57d23ff4.jpg

Speedmaster '57 using 9300 8Hz movement with correct 3 intermediate marks.

904122-5334e25291de2e818be36b9f0e5ab96f.jpg

So much for the Speedmaster Moonwatch being a precision timing instrument, it hasn't been able to accurately time to a finer increment than 1 second since the 1969 movement change 😉

There you have it. If you want a watch with the std Moonswatch dial which can accurately measure elapsed time to within a quarter of a second, you need the 321, the 861/1861 are only giving an approximation. QED.

Thanks for the info 👍 - tbh, I never realized this. Not that I need to measure anything down to less than a second but still, I find this mismatch of interest.
 
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I’m probably the only guy one here who’s never been a Speedy fan, but this one looks fantastic. I’m really glad it’s so pricey, otherwise I might have been tempted....
I would LOVE to see more of that lovely bracelet...as compared to the Trilogy bracelets, the 3 parts of the links are more even in size. I’m very curious about how the clasp looks....