Hello, forum
Just a small enquiry regarding the bracelet links removal: are the little links by the clasp removable? And also, anywhere I can buy a screwdriver to remove myself the screws on my Omega Seamaster 300-2018. The ones I bought are scratching the screws.
Thanks

 

Looks like all the links with screws can be removed. I'd measure the slot width and look for a hollow-ground screwdriver to minimize slipping and marring the bracelet. Like this:
https://www.esslinger.com/horofix-screwdriver-for-rolex-watch-bracelet-link-screws/

 

These screws are often a bear to remove. Sometimes, they are crazy glued in. If you mess up the slot in the screw head by using incorrect or chewed up screw drivers, double jeopardy. You might try daubing some acetone around the screw and let it soak in. Probably try that several times. You might also consider finding an actual watchmaker to remove the links. Do not expect help at the watch repair kiosk in your nearby department store.

 

No matter what blade profile you buy, the blade of the screwdriver must be properly fitted to the slot. This means a snug fit in the slot, and not bottoming out in the slot, as that will lead to cam out.

If the screws have Loctite on them, (likely) then application of heat is the best way to break the bond.

Cheers, Al

 

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-96018-S...566692100&s=gateway&sprefix=omega+scre&sr=8-2

 

I had the same problem with the same bracelet. I bought a 1.6mm screwdriver from Nick Hacko, still couldn't turn the screws, applied heat from a soldering iron and eventually a precision blowtorch all to no avail. So I sent the bracelet to my mate Jiminoz who did this:
20 minutes in an ultrasonic at 80ºC followed by soaking the screw heads in acetone for an hour.
Then another dose of ultrasonic and into the soft jaws and a fitted screwdriver and a bit of "leverage".
Bless him he even got rid of the mess from the blowtorch. This was to fit a Micro adjustable clasp.

 

Be aware that the screws are only cap screws at each side of the bracelet holding a pin in the centre.
They are tiny so make sure your workplace is clean and well lit.

Or take it to your watchmaker.

 

How much heat do you need? I tried immersing the bracelet in boiling water for 30 sec, and blasting with a hairdryer for 60 sec to melt the glue / loctite, but I still wasn't able to turn the screws at all using an A & F 1.8 mm screwdriver.

 

Bought a 1.8 mm from Nick Hacko last week, thinking it would be straightforward to remove some links. I didn't think you would need to go this far. I work in a lab so might be able to find a sonicator, but this seems extreme! Does the acetone have any effect on the bracelet finish?

 

I use a small butane torch...

 

What is "cam out"?

 

GIYF...

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam_out

 

That one worked great for me. It fit the screw head snugly.
Oops, just realized I was responding to a year old inquiry. Sorry, I didn't need to hear mine to break the bonding compound.

 

Okay, so are you saying a screwdriver should be snug in the slot, but the tip not hit the bottom? How would one manage that with tiny screw? Press the tip into the bottom, and back it out?

And ideally, since the walls of a screw are parallel, should a properly dressed screwdriver be cut to have parallel walls too, as it would seem that a wedge shape would tend to exert more force on the top edge of the screw slot, leading to a greater chance of deformation there.

 

There are two types of screwdriver blades - V-shaped and hollow ground blades. I only use hollow ground blades for rounded screw heads, so for example on Panerai crown lock device screws:



Since these are installed using thread locker, and heat would damage seals, I use a torque sleeve on the screwdriver barrel, and the hollow ground blades are made of HSS (tool steel).





For flat head screws, I use the traditional V-shaped, or wedge profile. In order to fit the blade to the screw, you file it or use a stone to shape it. So if the blade goes in the slot far enough to touch the bottom of the slot, you file off the very tip of the blade. If the blade goes into the slot but doesn't go in far enough, you file off the sides of the blade.

Every screw is different, so for example modern screws in watch movements tend to have wider and shallower slots than screw in vintage watches. So I have more than one set of screwdrivers, so one set is dressed to fit more modern screws, and one more for vintage. They all need frequent dressing to fit specific screws. This is daily work for watchmakers, so if you do it enough it only takes a short time to properly dress the blade to fit the screw.

Ideally you would want the blade to nearly touch the bottom of the slot, but not quite, so maybe a 0.05 mm gap.

Cheers, Al

 

During the watchmaking 101 class I took, the first day was filing screwdrivers and working with tweezers. Many basic skills were required before we were allowed to touch a watch.

 

@Archer @Canuck

My watchmaker (independent with Rolex parts account ... yes, one of the few remaining) was telling me about a tool that applies heat (possibly through resistive heating) through the screwdriver blade itself. Or at least that was how I understood it. It is probably a Rolex tool. Does that ring a bell?

The context was that the local local Rolex AD was constantly damaging screw heads when trying to resize bracelets, and then asking him to fix their mistakes as a favor. So he convinced the AD to buy this tool, but they still weren't using it regularly.

Apparently Rolex does surprise inspections of him in his shop every year or two, and the inspector watches him service movements and do repairs and adjustments. They inspect the movement screws (and bridges) carefully for scratches.

 

Shop inspections are a part of life with a parts account.

I've not heard of the tool that you speak of, but if it's some sort of mandatory thing for Rolex, I hope it never becomes mandatory for Omega. Not really needed as you can just heat the screw with a small torch.