BoR bracelet markings

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I recently was bidding on a BoR bracelet on ebay and had second thoughts due to the lack of bracelet marking on it (i.e. 1037, 1503). Seller seems reputable and has other marked bracelets. So my question is - how to explain the no markings? Were there authentic bracelets made with no markings?
 
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Indeed there were - here are two examples:



Both very early sliding clasp BoRs. A few more pictures of the one in question would sure help us to determine wether yours is actually correct. Most fake ones I know say 1502, by the way, but not all of them.
 
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My BOR is the same as yours and I got it from a very reputable member here. It’s legit
 
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Perfectly legitimate to see them without reference numbers.
 
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I ended up not buying it, but here are a few other photos. Everything else looked good to me.
s-l1600.jpg s-l1600.jpg s-l1600.jpg s-l1600.jpg
 
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Not at all.
The unmarked (number stamp) ones tend to go for less becuase people think they may be fake. They can be a bargain.
 
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I was watching that, too, but didn't bid. I had my fingers crossed that it would stay very inexpensive due to not having a reference in the listing title. Still a good price. I got my 1502 from that seller for a good deal, but I had to work a little when I got it. I had to tighten the links a bit, and I still can't get the end links just right.
 
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I was watching that, too, but didn't bid. I had my fingers crossed that it would stay very inexpensive due to not having a reference in the listing title. Still a good price. I got my 1502 from that seller for a good deal, but I had to work a little when I got it. I had to tighten the links a bit, and I still can't get the end links just right.
What end links are they? 11’s and 12’s are the common ones of that era but they fit a bit differently. If one doesn’t fit properly, the other may fit better.
 
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They're 11's. One of them fits pretty well, but the other has been bent so that the top edge is too far back. I made some progress with it, but it still falls in sometimes instead of resting against the case. It's entirely possible that 12's would fit better. I gather the 11's are typically used for the beefy lug Seamasters. The folded edges of the 11's give me a little peace of mind that they won't scratch the case, but that's probably just me being unnecessarily cautious with my first nice watch. I'm sure well-fitting 12's would do less damage than poorly-fitting 11's.
 
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They're 11's. One of them fits pretty well, but the other has been bent so that the top edge is too far back. I made some progress with it, but it still falls in sometimes instead of resting against the case. It's entirely possible that 12's would fit better. I gather the 11's are typically used for the beefy lug Seamasters. The folded edges of the 11's give me a little peace of mind that they won't scratch the case, but that's probably just me being unnecessarily cautious with my first nice watch. I'm sure well-fitting 12's would do less damage than poorly-fitting 11's.
I started my other thread because I’m a crank who wants to figure this stuff out for myself, but you don’t actually have to go it alone. Watchmakers have offered to adjust endlinks on the house when I’ve brought a watch in for other kinds of service.
 
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Yeah, I enjoy trying to tinker with them myself as well. It's a fun challenge.