I thought this would be a good thread for beginners like myself or anyone looking for ideas on a daily wear piece that is still top quality. So I am asking this question to the comminuty at large. What is the best possible quality dress watch new or vintage that regularly goes for $300 or less? No junk allowed, and please no fake diamond bezels and 60mm dials.
It's just possible to find the odd "deal" on Ebay on old '50s stainless steel Omegas as long as one understands that any auction purchase is a "pig in a poke" and it's possible to go bust on a worn out clunk. That has happened to me a couple of times, purchasing watches that, while they would wind and run, were really too far gone to be worth rehab'ing. These two have been purchased within the past year for just over $200 each. Given a rehab at the watchmakers put them just about in the ball park of your $300 target and they make good-looking daily wear watches unless one has to have "garganto-diameter" looks. Have other watches on hand but I'd rather wear either of these than many new ones that could be mentioned. These come off looking far better than my crummy photographic attempts show and take their turns for occasional office wear. Before (auction photos) After Before (auction photos) After
Bulova or Benrus. Bulova for straight manual wind 3 hand watches, Benrus for calendar / complications. Do NOT get anything after the 1960's to be safe.
There won't be much in the "no junk" dress watch category for under $300. I'd take a look at the Orient Bambino or a Seagull.
I looked back through my ebay purchase history since posting a moment ago and the first watch was $212.00 with $4.50 for shipping. The second was 214.50 with $1.93 shipping. The first watch cost $85 to service and the second watch cost $115 to service (requiring a replacement crown which the watchmaker says is the proper crown for that model). It really isn't always a happy ending. I have an IWC I've had for many years with a C89 movement that is almost toast. The present watchmaker rectified some bad fixes of a nature too technical for my ken but says it's on its way out as being too worn and neglected in a former life (probably in it's life with me since I ran it for some years before wising up to regular service). I've had it for 16 years now, it also being an Ebay purchase out of Israel. Haven't determined how to deal with it yet when it does quit. A 1956 Zenith that struck my fancy was inexpensively purchased on Ebay and was "cleaned and oiled" to run a couple of years. My current watch man took a look at it, closed it up and returned it, saying it was a terminal case and there was nothing left that could be done for a movement that had been neglected of any service for its entire life. It quit for good a while back and I'm at a loss as to what to do with it. All "real deals" on Ebay aren't really deals. Sometimes a blind hog finds an acorn though and its fun to take the gamble. I live way out in the hinterlands of Texas and have little other source to feed the vintage watch fancy ... other than the classifieds on our fine Forum, something I'm sure I'll take advantage of sooner or later since there are some appealing watches showing up there constantly.
Hmmm I always considered "dress" a notch or two higher than "daily wear"... but it would not be the first time I missed the boat..
I was recently obsessed with Longines Grand Prize (early-mid 1960's) in stainless steel. Many are 33mm, so they wear small (by today's style). I sold all but my 34mm date-at-six model (uncommon for the Grand Prize).. Here as some pics of models I sold: And the "keeper" that I'll probably sell when I find the next one I can't live without! So in terms of vintage under $300, I don't think you can beat Longines. The Omegas seem to exceed $300 for similar models. I'm not really qualified to comment on contemporary pieces under $300. My Go-To new/contemporary choices have been Hamilton. They are over $300 but 4 of the five I own were $700, $600, $500, and $350. Best bang for that buck.
I may not have a clue what is a "dress watch." I like straps on watches and always subscribed to the notion that straps trump metal bracelets as "dress" attire. I "dress" my watches up in various different straps that appeal to me and wear them to office or board room as "dress watches." It's hard to dress up in this day and age of dressing down and office casual.
Well fellas I just lucked out and got this gem of a dress watch for under $200. Here is the item description: HAMILTON BRANDON CLD 1950 Here is an excellent prime example of a Hamilton Brandon model wristwatch. These watches were made from 1948-1951 and are 10KGF with 18K solid-gold numerals on a silver-color dial. This particular watch is a wonderful, very clean example with an original dial. Note from my pics how crisp and clear the dial is - especially the "cld" and the seconds sub-dial. Dial restorations do not replicate the "cld" as well as this original dial from 65 years ago. This Brandon has the original gold hands which are in perfect condition. There is no pitting anywhere on this watch. Of particular note is that this watch was completely serviced (disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt and timed) by Rene Rondeau, the world's foremost expert on vintage Hamilton watches, who has recently retired. The last 2 pics were sent to me by Rene as he was working on this watch. He noted how nice the dial was (he also concluded it is original) and that the cal 980 17 jewel movement was also very clean. Indeed, this watch runs strong and accurate as a wind-up vintage wristwatch!
I'm flipping this 14k solid gold Hamilton watch for 265 euro (not sure if I'm allowed to post this here, if not apologies). http://www.horlogeforum.nl/t/tk-14-karaat-gouden-hamilton-dresswatch/41561 Edit: it's sold
I should think that any "off brand" with a fully-jewelled movement wouldn't be a horrible start. For example, the 60s Waltham watches were made with decent Swiss movements and sell for approximately nothing. Bulova is a good choice as well. Swiss Hamiltons are worth a look too. Honestly, there are too many to list. Stay away from the big names and you'll get a watch that is (arguably) as good and it'll be a lot less expensive. Tom
For new my vote also goes to Orient http://orientwatchusa.com/collections/mens-watches/classic/er2400bw
