Hello,

there's been quite many 105.012's for sale lately. Perhaps due to the 50th anniversary.
How does my watch stand against them in value?

Here's a thread about the watch with more pictures.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/assessment-of-my-105-012-64-please-help-me-fill-the-gaps.94016/

Pictures taken today


Reference: ST 105.012-64
Serial no: 2208 7xxx

Case: Unpolished, Asymmetrical case, Twisted lugs, HF Huguenin Freres
My opinion: Not sure of polished or not...

Caseback: A3 double step with Speedmaster engraved on rear
My opinion: should be correct, Seahorse quite visible, same damage after being opened

Bezel: B1 Dot diagonal 70, BASE 500, DOT over 90, DOT next to 70 (lower right), accent over the E
My opinion: should be correct, blueish and in good condition

Movement: Cal 321, A3 – 2nd generation, fully serviced February 2019
My opinion: should be correct and in great condition

Crown: Original, A1 24 teeth, narrow flat feet
My opinion: Hoping it's original, some have told me that it is, matches A1 in MWO, some damage to it

Dial: B2 – Close T, Original stepped dial, Applied Metal Logo, Professional text, SWISS MADE with close spaced T marks, Tritium indices
My opinion: is correct and in good condition, not as sure on lume

Hands: C1 – Baton Drop, Original baton hands and spear chrono hand. Drop end chrono hand. Tritium
My opinion: should be correct, some miscoloring, mostly on the minute hand

Plexi: Original with Omega logo etched
My opinion: correct, not polished in my possession

Pushers: Type 3 Wide & short, Original pushers.
My opinion: looks short and fat necked, but i'm not 100% confident on these

Bracelet: Original 1506/16 with the correct ’16’ endlinks (date stamped) 1 65 means 1st quarter 1965.
My opinion; Is correct, both bracelet and end links, in good condition and with all pieces i believe

Appreciate all possible feedback!

 

blue-reflected light on the crystal makes it very hard to judge the dial and lume. it even looks brown in those pics, but you don't state it is. So I would say better pics required.

 

I'm not a good photograph. hard time getting good shots of the dial. Here's an attempt indoors.

 

If you want to sell it I'd suggest you do some research yourself and list it with an asking price of your own making, you'll know soon enough if you have valued it correctly.

As I'm sure you're aware vintage watches ( and yes, even Speedmasters ) don't have a set, specific price, but generally a price range, with of course outliers both above and below.

IMO the market for average examples has been quite inflated for a while, so even historic data may give a misinterpretation of the current value of your watch.

 

If you're looking for an honest appraisal, I will say that it looks like a nice watch, and it has a lot going for it, but the color of the lume on the dial, and the mis-matched lume colors of dial and hands, will detract from the value a bit. I'm not implying that there's anything incorrect about the watch, just a personal observation that dials with darkened lume are not as desirable to most people, all things being equal.

Ultimately, you have to come up with your own asking price, and I'm certain that you will find a happy buyer at the right price.

 

You may want to bring the watch back to the3 watchmaker who performed the service last year, as it either has chronocreep or the hour subregister hand was put back misaligned. And pics of the movement and inside/ outside of caseback would be helpful for an assessment.

Bezel and case seem to be in pretty nice condition overall. Both are amazingly free of bumps, scrapes and nicks. But the moldy lume on the dial and the odd lume appearance on the hands are detractors, unfortunately -- if they were in a condition similar to the case and bezel this watch would be a showstopper to me (assuming movement looks good, etc.).

Without the additional photos I would pay midway between 'running' and 'good' pricing. Someone who has one with a banged up case but good dial and hands may be willing to pay a little more.

 

You've got some good advice from these guys.

This thread is very close to the one noted in the first post where condition/values were given. Are you expecting it to have changed in condition in a few months?

Cheers, Chris

 

Yes it almost reads like a stealth sakes post which is odd as the OP has full selling right.

My 2p worth? It’s a rare year iteration in mostly good condition so is desirable to some and of interest to many but personally I would be put off by the dial lume and state of the hands. I don’t think it’s the best one out there so the value is likely somewhere between Running and Good, maybe nearer Good if it’s been serviced well, nearer Running if not. The obvious chrono creep perhaps suggests the latter.

 

Thanks guys, i appreciate the honest answers.
I have done some research myself. However from time to time i don't fully understand the difference in prices from piece to piece.
It's hard to tell how much to detract for some details.

My own research (with help from here and others) tells me the parts are all original. The case (even after possible earlier polishing) and the bezel are in really good condition. The dial is good, except the lume. Hands are not so good due to miscoloring. Also having original fat neck pushers and original crown are plus. The bracelet is in real good condition with good stretch and all pieces included. With correct end pieces.

I haven't noticed that i'd could suffer from chronocreep. I did reset it now and it aligns perfectly. How do i make sure if i (the watch) has the disease or not?

The history of this watch is not documented or in other ways confirmed. However the gentlemen i bought it (15 years ago) from told me he bought it in Sweden in the sixties. Atleast the Sweden part is documented in the EoA. I believe it's a "two-owner" watch. But don't really think this adds any value. Oh boy, do i regret not asking more when i bought it. I had no idea it could be nice/valuable information.

Here's some additional photos of back/inside.



On top of the observed downsides of the watch there's one more thing. Something inside of the start/stop pusher is worn. The button doesn't work/click correctly all the time. You'll have to "wound" it a bit to find a good spot. When you do, it "clicks", starts and stops. I decided to not have it fixed coz the pusher is original.

 

If the watch has chronograph creep, then the hour recorder slowly advances even with the chronograph off. Just wind it, leave for 24 hours with the chronograph off and see if the hour recorder has moved from zero. It has already reset to zero so, the hand seems to have been fitted in the correct place.

So, what do you value the watch at? Bear in mind it has a movement and pusher issue, if you want.

Cheers, Chris

 

If you're not selling it then I still don't understand why you would want to analyse and put a value on your own watch on the forum?

Isn't it enough to just appreciate something for what it is without having others hang a price card on it?

And let's not forget when valuing anything there are always two prices; the price I'd be happy to pay for it and the price I'd be happy to get for it, rarely are they the same number!

 

@DotOverNine
Insurance appraisal or what you can sell it for? Different numbers.

 

All in all, as i said i've seen so many in price range between 6500 EUR and up to 14000EUR not counting Buzz signature editions etc. So i was wondering where in this range is my watch. And yes, for right price i'd be ready to sell it.

It's only fair that i share my valuation of it. (in the condition the watch is in, a possible chronocreep will be fixed)

Head-only 7000 EUR i wouldn't sell
11000 EUR, id sell it today
at 9000 EUR i would think about it

If i'll end up keeping it. i will do something with the lume and hands. And chronobutton eventually.

 

Weirdest sales thread I've seen.

 

I would think 9k-10k EUR would not be out of line considering the dial/ hand lume, chronocreep and pusher issue. The buyer will need to put some $ into this.

 

I am pretty sure you saw the FS topic I posted but just in case you haven't seen it it will help you in your process... still unsold at that price

https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-speedmaster-105-012-64-with-extract.97952/#post-1279030

 

I wouldn’t touch the lume. I’m no expert, but a long time observer and that era lume often tends to turn that color and is original and honest...today, people don’t like that greenish/brown, but tomorrow can be different. My 105.012-65 wasn’t ever serviced before I obtained it and is that color. When I serviced it, I told them not to touch the dial or hands...I just wear it and enjoy it without altering it (except to save original DON, caseback and 1506 bracelet in storage). People want the perfectly yellowed lume like you see on 145.022 and resume to match that, but I’d rather keep all original.

See mine here https://omegaforums.net/threads/pg3-apollo-11-with-105-012-65.99102/