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Anyone Else Polish Their Watches With A Dremel?

  1. DLT222 Double D @ ΩF Staff Member Mar 20, 2013

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    Im putting this one out there because i polish all of my watches that have polished stainless on them.

    Im daring enough because i spent 14 years detailing private jets, helicopters & exotic cars to a very high standard, so i'm quite used to polishing chrome etc.

    The items i use are....

    Cordless Dremel 8200 with variable rpm with polishing pads
    Swissvax Metal Polish - This stuff is amazing!! Click here to Order
    Swissvax Car Bath 100ml - For washing the watch after. 100% PH Balanced Click Here to Order
    Super soft microfiber cloths - For removing the residue left over and general polishing.
    A little water - lubricant for the polish.
    Scotch Tape - This is used to tape the brushed parts on the watch.
    Quetips - For water and polish application.

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    Before Pictures...

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    Step 1: Tape over the brushed areas with the scotch, wrap it under the bracelet so it stays firm. The bracelet will be ridged when done.

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    Step 2: Apply a tiny bit of metal polish on the the watch or the polish head with the que tip, dip your other que tip in the water and put it on the part to be polished, you only need a little.

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    Step 3: Set the RPM to between 7-10000 on the Dremel and polish away keeping your eyes on the polishing as you go, keep adding the droplet of water as it will help with the lubrication and the metal polish will do its job nicely. For heavier scratches step up the RPM a little



    Step 4: When you think the piece you are polishing is done, stop and clean the watch off with the cloth.

    Step 5: Repeat steps 2 - 4 till all the polished parts on the watch are done. REMEMBER TO TAPE THE BRUSHED AREAS AND THE DIAL WHEN WORKING ON THE CASE!

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    Step 6: Providing the watch is water proof, fill a bowel with warm water and use a soft bristled tooth brush to clean the residue off the watch from the metal polish using a PH balanced soap. If your watch is not water proof use the water and bowel with the wash solution on the bracelet only but do not submerge the case obviously, i prefer to use the brush and water away from the bowel just in case it slips and drops in the bowel - Then you would be gutted!

    Step 7: Dry the watch throughly and re-polish with a clean micrfiber cloth.

    After Pictures.

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    Step 8: Put it back in the box or wear it.

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    Then follows the Brushed part...

    Boston Watch Exchange do the pads used to refinish the brushed parts of the watch, i've saved that for another day as i needed to go out.
     
  2. woodwkr2 Mar 20, 2013

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    Whoa whoa whoa WHOA there. Polishing at 7-10,000 RPMs is a recipe for disaster!!! My advice: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS.

    You're welcome to use a dremel, but you have to use one with a variable speed switch or pedal. And I'm not talking about the built in "variable speed" dremels, I'm talking about buying a single speed dremel and hooking it up to a speed box. Do NOT hook up your variable speed Dremel to a speed control, you'll burn up your motor. You want the RPMs down around 1,000-2,000 RPM.

    The jewelry/watchmaking trade use nicer versions of the dremel made by a company called Foredom. They also use dental drills.

    And what is that nonsense polish that you're using and probably paid a fortune-per-ounce for? If you're going to do this right, look at real jeweler's rouge and polishes. Fabulustre and Dialux make good stuff.

    DLT222, I'm glad that you're pleased with your results, and it sounds like you have some good hands based on your other hobbies, but the name of the game in polishing is taking off the bare minimum of material to achieve a nice polish. Burning up your nice steel watch at 10,000 RPM is going to create so much heat that you're lucky you didn't change the temper of the steel.

    There's no problem with polishing at home for the DIY types, but stick to the Cape Cod cloths while you do your research rather than jumping right to the power tools.
     
  3. DLT222 Double D @ ΩF Staff Member Mar 20, 2013

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    I have never had a problem in all the years I have polished my watches. I am used to polishing different metals like steel, chrome, nikel, brass and even gold.

    I have been polishing leading edges on aircraft for a long time.
     
  4. ulackfocus Mar 20, 2013

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    Well, it definitely meets the "oooooo, shiny!" requirement. ;)
     
  5. woodwkr2 Mar 20, 2013

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    DLT222,
    My intention wasn't to offend. Indeed, it looks like you obtained some nice results. But it also sounds like you have quite a bit of experience with this that the typical watch owner does not--and regardless, 10k RPM is going to produce a helluva lot of unwanted heat on your fine steel (think about the difference in surface area on a watch vs. a bumper or airplane wing!) So my recommendation is two-part: 1) I think you could seriously up your game with a small investment in some proper polishing equipment (and some Bergeon sanding sponges, or a Scotchbrite pad, no need to mess with Boston Watch Exchange's markup) and 2) I think the average reader would be well served to do their homework before following your lead.
     
  6. DLT222 Double D @ ΩF Staff Member Mar 20, 2013

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    No offence taken! Luckily I do have experience. It's not always whacked on 10k it's reduced down most of the time.

    i would rather have the thread deleted than cause someone to damage their timepiece.

    I will however take your advice also as the last thing I want is to damage mine!

    this is why I love this forum Its full of amazing advice and genuine people.
     
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  7. woodwkr2 Mar 20, 2013

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    Leave the thread for the next person that wants to use their Dremel on their watch--a great idea in theory, minor tweaking needed in practice.

    For not a lot of money you can get a sweet polishing setup. I'd look at the cheapest Dremel SINGLE SPEED version that you can find, and then search ebay for the old Dremel speed controls or for a router (woodworking) speed control.

    You've already got the right little felt polishing pads for it, just be sure to devote a single pad to each grit or polish that you use.

    Next, read up a bit on the correct polishing compounds to use for different metals. Eg. red and green rouges for gold, blue for stainless, special compounds for super hard platinum. Get a couple bars of polishing compound (Fabulustere, Dialux, etc.)

    Next step: realize the difference b/t polishing and scratch removal. A polishing compound is not what you want to get rid of deep scratches. And honestly, that's not something that you really want to use a power tool for. While it's quicker, you also run the very serious risk of over doing it and ruining the edges and profile of the case. Instead, splurge on $20 worth of 3M sanding fabric in every grit from 400 to 8000. For the deep scratch removal, do it by hand using the 3M stuff. Then progress to your rouges and polishes, then finally, buy a little chamois "bit" for the dremel (like your felt pad, but literally a little buff made of leather/rawhide) and use that with your final "bright" polish.

    For the bracelet, there is a special kind of polymer tape that is used in the trade to seal off the brushed part. Frankly if you're getting good results with the scotch tape, keep with it. The real stuff is pricey.

    The biggest danger in using a dremel is the small diameter of the polishing wheels. You run the risk of creating a concave surface, that's why pros use large diameter bench polishers with dust collection (wear a N95 mask when you're doing this btw, you do NOT want to suck in any of this polishing compound that goes airborne). But if you've got a loupe and good lighting to periodically check your work, I think the risk is overblown.

    Total investment <$100. Doing things the right way the first time=priceless
     
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  8. DLT222 Double D @ ΩF Staff Member Mar 20, 2013

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    Thanks for all the info!

    i will look in to all you have suggested!
     
  9. woodwkr2 Mar 20, 2013

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    Maybe we'll sticky this thread for later... as long as we're giving away trade secrets, this is also how you polish the scratches out of acrylic/plastic watch crystals. You use a dedicated buff with a different compound called crystal klear. Really turn the speed down or you'll melt your crystal! But with this same setup you can spare yourself the trip to the jeweler/watchmaker and take the scratches out at home in less than 10 minutes.

    This is one of the beauties of vintage watches. For modern sapphire crystal, there's nothing that you can realistically do except buy new glass.
     
  10. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Mar 21, 2013

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    Interesting thread and some interesting methods - in every watch factory I've been through, any service center I've been to, or in any brand training I've received, no hand held polishing tools (Dremel or Foredom) were ever used. Using these at all can create uneven surfaces and this is something you really don't want to do. On a SMP Bond bracelet where you have many small surfaces, I would never use a handpiece on the bracelet. It can make properly refinishing the bracelet down the road much more difficult - spent about an hour on one yesterday that some one had "home refinished" and it was a mess.

    Polishing is a skill that is only recently being taught in watchmaking schools, and it is a skill unto itself. Quite different than working on a movement for example.

    I agree that scratch removal and polishing are different things, but of course powered tools (a variable speed bench mounted polishing motor to be specific) are used for all these functions in a professional setting. Each brand has it's own preferences, and in particular Rolex was very picky about the various materials and equipment used when I went through their training. They will tell you what buff to use on what material for what application, right down to the specific Rolex Menzerna compound to use (they have them specially formulated for their watches) and also will dictate the rotational speed of the buffing motor for different applications.

    They recommend using an Artifex wheel for removal of deep scratches, then progressing through the various buffs (from hard felt to unstitched muslin) with various compounds for final finishing and colouring. For brushed finishes they use a Bufflex wheel, which is what I use also.

    Omegas training was less focused on specific tools, and more on techniques. I found the tips they gave me were quite helpful in shaving time off the process of refinishing many of their products. I used to dread doing a Bond bracelet, but with the exception of the ones that are hacked up like the one I mentioned above, they don't take long at all to refinish now.

    It's very possible to refinish a watch case or bracelet using a variable speed polishing motor and not lose the sharp corners and make uneven surfaces (I do it several times per week), but you have to know what you are doing. One of the key things is not trying to remove every last ding and dent - you have to know when to stop. Even the brands don't do this, so most people get into trouble trying to remove all traces of any damage. It's the wrong approach in my view - if you focus on bringing back the contrast between the brushed and polished surfaces, the watch will look 99% new, but will maintain the case shape and sharp edges.

    And I gree using a powered motor for removing scratches on acrylic crystals is dangerous. I always do these by hand.

    However sapphire can be polished out using diamond pastes of different grits. I've done it a few times, but it takes a very long time to do and it's usually cheaper to replace the crystal than pay for the labour - of course that is if you can get a crystal.

    Cheers, Al
     
  11. Kringkily Omega Collector / Hunter Mar 22, 2013

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    Just curious almost everything I ever see used to polish a polished surface, if not using a cotton wheel and rouge, it always leaves behind some very micro level scratches than can be seen under a x10 loupe. How is the surface when examined under bright fluorescent lighting and a loupe? I know Rolex finishing is hard to get to a perfect factory mirror finish.
     
  12. porschefan Mar 22, 2013

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    I brush my teeth with a Dremel. A couple of cavitities at 14 yrs old, a couple more at 24... now 57 and haven't had any since. ;-)
     
  13. alam Mar 22, 2013

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    what happened? lost all your teeth? :p
     
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  14. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Mar 22, 2013

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    Refinishing is not usually a "one step and done" process. Different types of rubberized abrasive wheels, and different polishing compounds, and also buffs of different materials and different stitching are used in a progressive manner to get a proper refinish done.

    With a high polish, the last step is sometimes referred to as "colouring" (coloring if you are in the US), and that is the step that gives that final shine you are talking about - usually done with a specific compound for this purpose and an unstitched muslin/cotton buff.

    Cheers, Al
     
  15. X350 XJR Vintage Omega Aficionado Mar 22, 2013

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    Hi Al -

    How would you restore (refinish) the sunburst brushing like on the top of a Flightmaster?
     
  16. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Mar 22, 2013

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    I would not - you need a lapping machine for that I don't get enough call to juustify the expense - here is a video at the Swatch service center in NJ showing how the lapping is done:



    Cheers, Al
     
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  17. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Mar 22, 2013

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    Is that a G-Shock on his right wrist and another watch on the left? :cautious:
     
  18. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Mar 23, 2013

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    Yes it is. He is the manager of the refinishing area....
     
  19. woodwkr2 Mar 23, 2013

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    Methinks you can only get away with wearing two watches if you make your living working on them or making them.
     
    atone likes this.
  20. ulackfocus Mar 23, 2013

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    In public - us weirdos can go double barrel around the house and at GTG's whenever we feel like it.