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  1. MikeF Jan 10, 2013

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    My new (old, beatup) watch from Dad... can anyone help identify it? Ideas on how to spiff it up (without replacing parts)? I'll take it to shop in a week or so to open and investigate...
    [​IMG]

    back (sorry for not great pictures. flat topped A and certified is spelled correctly:
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    What you have there is a very cool, and rather nice SM300, its actually not that beat-up at all, the case is in great shape, the caseback doesn't look terrible, and the bezel is relatively good. This watch needs a new crystal, and a full service from a vintage specialist watchmaker, but the upshot is, the crystal is the worst part of this watch, and is also the cheapest thing to fix, its about $30-50 for a new one.

    The other nice thing is the movement in these is cheap to service and has excellent and cheap parts availability. If you like we can point you in the direction of a couple of good independent vintage specialist watchmakers that can take good care of you for a reasonable price.

    Well worth keeping in the family too long term, they're a great watch.
     
  3. pascs Jan 10, 2013

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    The watch looks pretty nice in that condition :)

    and just a replacement crystal will transform it......and maybe a replacement bracelet
     
  4. MikeF Jan 10, 2013

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    thanks for the reply!

    that's good to hear. Since it was Dad's, it has the sentimental value, so I like it as is. What does it do to the (other) value if it gets serviced and has original (beatup) parts replaced? And yes, I'm open to directions on where I can take it. I'm in the States but I travel all over them :)
     
  5. MikeF Jan 10, 2013

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    definitely getting a new bracelet. probably nylon for now but maybe and Omega mesh later.
     
  6. pascs Jan 10, 2013

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    I have an Omega mesh bracelet on my SM300 and it is a fantastic bracelet, a bit expensive but they are very comfortable and look great. I really like aircraft style buckle on them too. If you have big wrists you'll need to get the mesh extension piece too but these are pretty cheap
     
  7. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    The crystal is a replaceable part, the one on it could well already be a replacement, and because of that, there's no harm in changing the crystal, it will make a big difference on the watch and make that dial really show through, but not only that, the new crystal and seals will make it waterproof again, which will protect it.

    The bracelet its on now isn't original, its just some twist-o-flex cheapo thing, feel free to throw it in the bin, cloth NATO strap until you can go Omega Mesh is an excellent option.

    As for the movement, it might not even need any replacement parts, just a clean and oil, but even if it does, replacing movement parts isn't an issue originality wise as long as they're correct. The case, dial, hands, and bezel are the important parts.

    Steve is in New Jersey if that works for you, he's used by a lot of us and does very nice work at a very good price.

    His user profile is here if you want to send him a PM: http://omegaforums.net/members/n2fhl.493/
     
  8. flame Speedmaster Neil Jan 10, 2013

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    Hi Mike

    That is lovely....please do not over restore it ! Correct replacement crystal , stabilise the lume in the hands (do not replace) , full Service and perhaps a NATO , period Sharkskin or one of the new Omega rubberised leather straps with deployment ?

    Enjoy it....

    Best - Neil
     
  9. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    Maybe even an Isofrane, it really looks the part on an SM300

    [​IMG]
     
  10. MSNWatch Vintage Omega Aficionado Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    I would only have the crystal replaced and the movement serviced (with movement parts replaced as needed). I would however give strict instructions - not to touch the dial or hands (not even relume them) and not to polish the case (only clean it).
     
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  11. cicindela Steve @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    The advice given to you is very important. Replacing or re-luming the hands, replacing the dial or the bezel (the outer ring with numbers) or polishing the watch,
    will all drastically reduce the monetary value of the watch.
     
  12. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 10, 2013

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    Nice one - I agree keep it as original as possible.

    Cheers, Al
     
  13. tomvox1 Jan 10, 2013

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    Looks like a very nice original ref. 165.024 and even more special in that it comes from your father. Congrats!
    As others have said, originality is the key for most in the vintage watch world, so their advice is spot on for the most part.
    The one quibble I might have, and it might just be more of a clarification, is regarding the hands lume.
    As the minute hand is disintegrating, it must be stabilized. And usually stabilization does require some re-luming to both add to the fill and support the original fill.
    When done by a competent professional (such as a Jack at International Watch Works), the look will be virtually indistinguishable from the original lume (although the texture may be slightly different when viewed under a loupe). Just be very specific in what you want from the artisan.

    All things being equal, if you are going to wear and enjoy the watch, I personally feel it is worth it not to have to look at broken luminous on the hands when you're trying to tell the time. Maybe there is a small hit to the value but this is the one area on vintage watches where I am a bit more flexible and less of a 100% purist.

    Here is a SM 300 I owned where I believe the lume was stabilized by adding additional fill (just talking hands here, not dial):

    [​IMG]

    Looked great on the wrist and I assure you it did not hurt the value of the watch too much when I sold it. ;)

    Great piece & best of luck,
    Tom
     
  14. MikeF Jan 10, 2013

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    Thanks everyone for the responses. I suspected it was the 165.024 although Omega's Vintage site doesn't seem to have this exact one. I'm taking it now to get a new bracelet on it.

    In one day of wear it seems its gone fast by five seconds.

    I don't want to stir the pot but I'd like to see a bit more pro/con of reluming the minute hand. Can that be done by itself or does everything need to be relumed? In my picture it seems a bit yellowed but that's just the lighting. I'll get a better camera and post some before/after pics once I start getting work done.
     
  15. ulackfocus Jan 10, 2013

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    The lume can be redone, and even dyed to match the existing lume you want left intact. I've heard tea and/or coffee works, and even model paint, depending on how dark you need it.
     
  16. MSNWatch Vintage Omega Aficionado Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    I would leave well enough alone for the simple reason that you can always change your mind in the future to have it done but once done and if not done impeccably, you cannot turn back the clock. That is why when in doubt, leave it be (and I have learned my lesson the hard way many times).
     
  17. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 10, 2013

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    The lume that is there can be stabilized without adding more lume. When faced with a hand like this where the desire is to keep it original, I usually apply some of the binder that you mix with the lume powder to the back of the hand. The binder is clear, so it just makes the lume that is left stay in place so it does not break loose and get into the movement.

    Just one option to think about.

    Cheers, Al
     
  18. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    BTW Archer is another watchmaker based out of Canada doing good work, can probably ship it up there too easily enough.
     
  19. MikeF Jan 10, 2013

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    Thanks Al and everyone.

    One more question about nylon bracelets. I see most are the one piece, slip-through style but I've been told that that will end up speeding up the erosion of the backplate. Should I instead find a two piece or is this not that big a deal?
     
  20. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 10, 2013

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    You can put a plastic sticker on the caseback to preserve it, long term I'd go the Omega mesh though.