New here as I've come up against a brick wall trying to identify a watch that fell into my lap.
Short story: I managed to replace the battery in my cheap, Japanese movement watch. Discussion with my 83 year old father leads him to bringing a handful of watches from his drawer, including the watch he got for his 21st in 1955 (a Felca that has stopped working).
"See if you can find someone to repair it, as far as the rest of them go, if they're broken and no use, just bin them".
Accurist, Timex, Ling's and a small, manual wind Omega.
I get them home and notice that the Omega seems to be working, but stops after a few hours.
We've no idea where it came from, the assumption is that it was my maternal grandfather's, but that's all I think I know.
I've seen a few similar on the internet and looking at your informative forum, but none with the "non magnetic" tag with the same dial.
Can't find a small notch on the back to open it up and really don't want to be forcing it.
A piece of history that I'd like to keep and wear (guessing it'll probably be the most expensive watch I've ever owned).
Can any of you learned people give me any ideas what it is and how old it is?
Many thanks

Graeme

 

This previous thread may help:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-non-magnetic-info-help.87307/

But you really need to get the back off to get the reference number, movement number, and serial numbers for more info.

Best have a watchmaker do it if you don’t know what you’re doing.

 

Actually, these are fairly easy to open with the proper 'knife'. The notch may be between the lugs.

 

I want to add: the notch should not be between the lug...

 

Is that an Omega specific thing? I think the notch was between the lugs on a recently opened Hamilton.

 

Thanks all for the replies.
I have a case knife, needed to change batteries, but, having gone round the whole case with a 10x loupe, I can't see any point that appears to even have a small hollow or notch.
I've read a lot of threads on here and understand that some open from the front or the side, hence the reason I'm hesitant to force the back off it.
From reading on here, I'm guessing that it's maybe from the '40's or early '50's - I know my grandfather served in the Navy (submariner) during WW2, which might make sense.

And now for the even better news, after stopping after 5 hours yesterday (not keen to overwind it), it's now been running for 14 hours perfectly).

Graeme

 

No, its not a front loader.

You have to start with a very thin blade and then continue with a knife blade...

 

The lead (notch) should be at the 9 o clock. Not wanting to talk down to you, or anyone else, but that's best to allow a very thin blade to slide in. If the lead is between the lugs it's harder to get the blade in; you risk cracking the blade; or, worse - damaging the lugs or case.

Someone brought the cutest top wind Zenith wrist watch for me to see yesterday. He's a collector and can open a watch like a pro oyster shucker but had never been able to open this one. There was the smallest lead between the lugs but that was against the crown and almost invisible. Starting with a razor blade at the 9 o clock, I had the back off in seconds.

Anyway, that's why you always put the lead back to the side.

 

Aha, 9 o'clock was right - just to the side of the crown, with a very thin craft knife, photos below.

Number inside the case (difficult to read even with a loupe) is 2390/4.

Graeme

 

Too much dry oil! Better if you clean the border case back and the case.

 

Thank you for the detail, I assume that it also came in Stainless Steel, as the Omega listing states 18k solid gold.
Looking at the dates, (1941 & 1946), how do I tell the calibre to (hopefully) put an age on it?
Re the dry oil - at a guess (my grandfather has been dead for 36 years), I'm guessing that it's been unused in a drawer for at least 36 years and if I hadn't looked it up on the internet, would probably be in a dustbin by now!!! So I can forgive dry oil and the like.

Graeme

 

The serial number should give you and indication on the age (10796161). I think 1944 but someone here will be better at telling you that.
For the movement this is a good website to read up on it. I don't think there was a big difference from the 260/265 - just tweaks.

http://squelettewatches.com/chronometres-30mm/

 

My 265 (1950) CK2495 says hello :0)

 

Thanks for all your help guys, really appreciated.
So, we're guessing 1944ish and it needs oiled - as I said in my initial post, I know less than a little about vintage watches - changing a battery or strap on cheap Japanese watches is my limit.
This lucky find seems to be a stroke of luck, I don't remember seeing my grandfather ever wearing it (I'm a young 52 year old!).
My mother thinks I should sell it but I like my family history (I have my great grandfather's WW1 medals and original maps etc).
Can anyone give me an estimate of value in it's current condition? And, do I have to seek out a specialist or local independent to have this gem serviced?

Thanks

Graeme

 

Swisstimeservices or simonfreesewatchmaker or genesiswatchmaking or Richard Askham IMHO would all get my vote in the UK for this work.

In terms of value I will let others answer (interested what people think)

 

Graeme, it looks very original and that helps its value. The patination on the dial is less attractive than many and that hurts it. Despite the age, it's still not a rare watch. Unserviced, this would go through auction at around the £200 mark - it might push 3. So, estimate as to value right now: £250-375.

As for servicing, these movements aren't difficult so long as there's no excessive wear or damage (because I'm not sure what parts availability is). There's no need to send it off to the world's best, you just need a competent watchmaker. If you're willing to post your location, I'm sure a member local to you can suggest a watchmaker. Alternatively, look up the horological association for your country and they'll publish a list of approved people.

 

Thanks for that JimmyD, I'm in Scotland, just 11 miles north of Edinburgh.
I'd love to get it tip top again and on my wrist. Tried it today, but seems not to like being on a wrist - sitting on the table it runs ok, but not with random movement.
With regards to the dial, is it a "simple" case of cleaning it, or does it need specialist workmanship?
I understand this forum will get it's share of "chancers" looking for a quick buck, but this thing has just fallen into my lap by accident and is probably the most expensive watch I'll ever have, but, most of all, it's a piece of my family.

Graeme

 

We all love family pieces here. There may be a few hundred 2915s left in the world but there's only one grandad's watch.

There are people - true artists - who specialise in repairing/refinishing dials and they are able to make that watch look like new but .... You have to ask at what point it stops being your grandad's watch. On top of which, such services aren't cheap. To my mind, there's nothing wrong with a few wrinkles. We even have a name for it: wabi-sabi. Damage is something else but your watch isn't damaged ... just showing its age.

I'm sure Edinburgh or its surrounds will have a good watchmaker. Expect to pay £150 or so to bring the watch back to working order. Someone will come along with a name for you, or they may send a private message. In the meantime, don't wind or wear the watch. You'll only risk damage. Imagine that instead of finding a classic watch, you'd found a classic car. You wouldn't dream of running it until the engine was fully checked and it's fluids replaced.

Get it serviced, wear it in good health and remember your grandad.

 

Beautiful watch, lucky you!
I can make out a 2, if you take a loupe to it it might say 30T2 PC