After some investigation, still open questions, Let's Identify one more !

That is a pretty trashed watch.

The lack of balance and bridge is a real showstopper. Replacing that is fairly advanced work. About the only way to do it is to find a donor, which this watch probably was. Balances can be had for pretty much the cost of the watch. The bridge and capstones (jewels) are more tricky. Probably before shock absorbers. Early omegas used a three prong spring clip type thing. Not sure if they used the two screws from the back. I have been searching online for some T2 and 351 bumper parts. These things do not come up often. Mostly as others can use them to get a watch just like this working again. So could take years to find parts. Then there is wear on the bearing on the barrel bridge and setworks under the dial. If these are clean or rusty.

I forget what those hands are called Observatory? We discussed that sort of hand on the 'clubhouse springs' chat a few months back.

Others are dial experts. Dial looks acceptable. Clean lines and centered on the fonts. Engine turning still visible on the sub seconds.

No photographs of the rest of the case showing condition of the lugs or plating.

The crystal is the least of the worries.

Do you have the rest of the watch?

Sourcing a complete donor movement is likely your best option.

Hands are known to be used on some Omegas of this vintage, hour hands is sometimes referred to as a "moon" style.

Omega refers to this style as "Pontife" hands.

Some nice examples on here, e.g.: https://omegaforums.net/threads/jumbo-1940s-omega-with-pontife-hands.123974/page-2

I think that the yellowed crystal is a sign that it’s degrading and off-gassing, and will harm the dial and rust the hands. That’s the general rule with pocket watches at least.

The balance wheel Axel is called in English a 'staff.' It takes some special tools and skills to replace. I have not done one in over 20 years. Psyching myself up to do one in the next few days again. I learned simply removing the balance can shift the spring and torque it so the coils overlap.

As for the yellowed crystal. One of the few times I did clean a friends pocket watch. I replaced the crystal as it was yellowed. This was a heirloom watch. Also a cheap 'dollar watch.' Even now decades later I get push back on this. I tried to explain about the rusting. The other thing to watch for is the radium. Also called lume. This dial does not seem to have it. The low level high energy radiation turns to gas which can not get past the watch case. A sheet of paper will stop alpha particles.

You have a fair watch indeed. That dial is beautiful. According to the experts here my dial is repainted. (But I still like it.)
The photos were an experiment holding the iPhone up to the loupe. It is hard to get a good photograph like the pros do without the proper camera and lenses.

This is the other one I have. I think it is a T3 according to my notes. Lots of radium. I got a geiger counter to check it out. Again questionable dial.

Replacing a balance staff is indeed not a good place to start on watch servicing. Just stripping the balance is not easy without the correct tools, then removing the old staff takes time and care. Reassembly and ensuring everything is correctly aligned needs more tools and experience. I had one watchmaker approach me some years ago just to change some staffs as he didn't have the confidence to do them - I refused the work as had far more than I could cope with anyway.

As a starting hobbyist, you are likely to struggle greatly and this may very well put you off further work and enjoyment of watches.

Best wishes, Chris

I admire your spirit and anyone who works on things related to automobiles is OK in my book. Lots of car lovers here on the forum too.

Oh, and you stay much cleaner working on watches.

Seems like there are a lot who like both Cars and watchs. Especially over on the Tag/Heuer site.

I suspect there are analogy such as learning to work on basic cars like ford or chevy, before working on Cadalac or Colls Royce. I'd name racing cars, but that would only expose my ignorance of such things as I do not really know the difference between formula 1 and Nascar. Other than I try and avoid Highway 37 when ever a race is on in Sonoma.

Traditionally replacing a staff was one of the first things taught. Although usually on pocket watches. The pre shock proof staffs broke easy.
There was a story about a watchmaker who when drunk would loose his tools to the pawnshop. To get himself out of hock, he would take three horse shoe nails. (found in the street as this was the days of horse travel.) Not sure where he would get the graver from? Perhaps he would heat a fouth nail over a candle to harden it. The watchmaker would drive the nails into the bench or the top of the bar to win a bet. Making a rudimentary miniature late. One of the nails being a tool rest. Using the long hairs from his beard, make a bow using a twig from a tree. Then proceed to turn a perfect balance staff.

I would suggest starting with some practice watches first. Benruses are good ones to start with and often have ETA or AS movements. Watchmaking is not one off. One needs to work with dozens if not hundreds of watches to learn the skills.

You WILL damage and destroy your first attempts. The watch gods demand sacrifice. The forces used are tiny. It is about fine control.

Get the proper loupes and learn how to wear them. Most place them in the left eye. The clip ons work for those with glasses. I have had mixed luck with the USB scopes. They do not have good depth of field. It is hard to focus between the screen and the bench. Less magnification is more working room. You want 7 to 10 inches of focal distance. I like the optivisors for rough work.

Perhaps AR headgear might be of use. I have some from the 1990s which is quite impractical. The new stuff (and all 3D) is novelty. Look how long google glass lasted. Even google cardboard is dead. Meta is betting the farm (Virtual NFT islands?) on something that has failed often over the last 250 years. Look how much biotech uses statistics compared to direct imaging.

Unlike cars and other machinery, the gears run dry. Really dry and clean. Really really clean. A watch shop needs to be nearly surgically clean. (why I work in the bedroom and not the she shed.)

As others point out. The oils used would cost 15,000 a liter or what ever. They are sold like in 5 Ml quantities. Which is enough for several years work. They and the cleaning solutions expire.

At least in this day and age (Unlike 30 years ago when much of this was trade secrets.) One can get the tools. Download the parts lists and data sheets.

I would not advise attempting to make an extractor. Just get one. Staking sets cost a few hundred used. If that scares you off this Hobby is not for you.

Have had mixed luck with the Asian copies. I am considering a jewel press eBay keeps recommending me.. Most of the times the copy has flaws in the metal. Such can be used with care, but expect parts to break or bend.

I try and get Bergeon when I can. Or Hortek. these will last forever if treated properly. I think in the car world there was something called snapon tools. Quality tools for quality work.

Also look for my other postings. At least get some books by Henry B. Fried. Read the watchmaking session. Most important do not simply start out of passion. Watchmaking is zen. It is about random repetition.

I watched Kung-foo panda last night. Perhaps it does take 20 to 30 years of meditation. (but that would make for a boring film.)