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Alvaro95
·Hi all,
I’d really appreciate some guidance on a French-cased Constellation I’m considering.
I’m getting married in a few days, and my soon-to-be wife would like to give me a watch to mark the occasion. So I feel a certain responsibility to make a good, informed and reasonably rational decision this time –more than I normally do when I’m spending my own money on watches!
For some time I’ve been looking for an excellent example of a vintage gold watch, ideally with a light dial. My wife also keeps reminding me that I already own far too many round watches with black dials which, to her, “all look the same”, so I’m trying to take the hint.
I’ve always been particularly attracted to vintage Constellations: the pie-pan dial, the history, the proportions, and especially the chronometer movements. Also, my grandfather had a beautiful gold Omega chronometer which unfortunately I haven’t inherited, and these watches have always reminded me of him.
I love the classic dog-leg Constellations, but I’ve never been completely convinced by how they would work on my wrist. Mine is 15.5 cm and relatively flat, and I have seen that straight dog-leg lugs seem to “float” slightly above the wrist, almost as overhanging. I’m really looking for something that hugs the wrist properly.
Gold-capped examples also seem like a very sensible, budget friendly option. My concern is mostly knowing myself: I suspect I would end up worrying too much about wearing through the cap, babying the watch unnecessarily, and ultimately wearing it less than I should.
Which brings me to this one: a 1956 French-cased Constellation in solid 18k rose gold, cal. 505, currently offered by a reputable dealer. The case is 35 mm and 42.5 mm lug-to-lug, but is noticeably more curved than the more familiar Constellation cases, which seems particularly promising for my wrist.
From the photographs, both the case and dial look exceptionally well preserved to my eye. The watch has also recently been fully serviced; the dealer reports 310° amplitude, +4 s/day and 0.8 ms beat error.
The asking price is €6,900, which is certainly at the upper end. My thinking is that an unusually good, apparently very original example from a reputable dealer should command a meaningful premium. My wife, incidentally, is rather less concerned about squeezing every last euro and she is happy to accept some dealer premium as long as it comes from a reputable seller, is authentic, and “works”.
Before letting sentiment get the better of me, though, I’d be very grateful for some more experienced eyes.
In particular, I’d appreciate your thoughts on the dial originality/authenticity, the case originality and condition, whether it looks as sharp and unpolished as it appears to me, whether there is anything about the French case or hallmarks I should be checking, and the overall correctness of the watch and movement.
And finally, pricing: acknowledging the dealer premium and apparent condition, does €6,900 still seem defensible, or am I allowing an important occasion to make me too generous with the valuation?
I’ve attached the dealer’s photographs.
Many thanks in advance - and please feel free to be critical. I’d much rather have the romance spoiled now than after the wedding!
P.S.: apologies for the rather long introduction, this one is important.
I’d really appreciate some guidance on a French-cased Constellation I’m considering.
I’m getting married in a few days, and my soon-to-be wife would like to give me a watch to mark the occasion. So I feel a certain responsibility to make a good, informed and reasonably rational decision this time –more than I normally do when I’m spending my own money on watches!
For some time I’ve been looking for an excellent example of a vintage gold watch, ideally with a light dial. My wife also keeps reminding me that I already own far too many round watches with black dials which, to her, “all look the same”, so I’m trying to take the hint.
I’ve always been particularly attracted to vintage Constellations: the pie-pan dial, the history, the proportions, and especially the chronometer movements. Also, my grandfather had a beautiful gold Omega chronometer which unfortunately I haven’t inherited, and these watches have always reminded me of him.
I love the classic dog-leg Constellations, but I’ve never been completely convinced by how they would work on my wrist. Mine is 15.5 cm and relatively flat, and I have seen that straight dog-leg lugs seem to “float” slightly above the wrist, almost as overhanging. I’m really looking for something that hugs the wrist properly.
Gold-capped examples also seem like a very sensible, budget friendly option. My concern is mostly knowing myself: I suspect I would end up worrying too much about wearing through the cap, babying the watch unnecessarily, and ultimately wearing it less than I should.
Which brings me to this one: a 1956 French-cased Constellation in solid 18k rose gold, cal. 505, currently offered by a reputable dealer. The case is 35 mm and 42.5 mm lug-to-lug, but is noticeably more curved than the more familiar Constellation cases, which seems particularly promising for my wrist.
From the photographs, both the case and dial look exceptionally well preserved to my eye. The watch has also recently been fully serviced; the dealer reports 310° amplitude, +4 s/day and 0.8 ms beat error.
The asking price is €6,900, which is certainly at the upper end. My thinking is that an unusually good, apparently very original example from a reputable dealer should command a meaningful premium. My wife, incidentally, is rather less concerned about squeezing every last euro and she is happy to accept some dealer premium as long as it comes from a reputable seller, is authentic, and “works”.
Before letting sentiment get the better of me, though, I’d be very grateful for some more experienced eyes.
In particular, I’d appreciate your thoughts on the dial originality/authenticity, the case originality and condition, whether it looks as sharp and unpolished as it appears to me, whether there is anything about the French case or hallmarks I should be checking, and the overall correctness of the watch and movement.
And finally, pricing: acknowledging the dealer premium and apparent condition, does €6,900 still seem defensible, or am I allowing an important occasion to make me too generous with the valuation?
I’ve attached the dealer’s photographs.
Many thanks in advance - and please feel free to be critical. I’d much rather have the romance spoiled now than after the wedding!
P.S.: apologies for the rather long introduction, this one is important.
