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Adventures in Polywatch
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Scarecrow Boat
路Not sure if you鈥檙e wet sanding in addition to using poly watch, but regardless, you鈥檙e making good progress.
If you want to save money and enjoy minty freshness, toothpaste also works 馃憤
https://omegaforums.net/threads/pol...aper-toothpaste-wet-sanding-pic-heavy.121033/
If you want to save money and enjoy minty freshness, toothpaste also works 馃憤
https://omegaforums.net/threads/pol...aper-toothpaste-wet-sanding-pic-heavy.121033/
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GuiltyGear
路Just to add to @Scarecrow Boat really detailed thread. I typically dry sand starting from 600 grit, to 1000 and finally to 2000. With a lot of scratches like the watch in this thread, 600 will do quick work of it. Less damage and you can start at 1000.
2000 grit leaves a very smooth finish. You could go higher if you have it, but there's no real benefit. If done right, the polish will be 95% complete in this phase, with only slight fogging. A bit of Polywatch (or toothpase, polishing compound, whatever works for you) and it'll shine like new.
2000 grit leaves a very smooth finish. You could go higher if you have it, but there's no real benefit. If done right, the polish will be 95% complete in this phase, with only slight fogging. A bit of Polywatch (or toothpase, polishing compound, whatever works for you) and it'll shine like new.
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CBM1590
路Not sure if you鈥檙e wet sanding in addition to using poly watch, but regardless, you鈥檙e making good progress.
If you want to save money and enjoy minty freshness, toothpaste also works 馃憤
https://omegaforums.net/threads/pol...aper-toothpaste-wet-sanding-pic-heavy.121033/
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GuiltunderGlass
路Not doing wet sanding鈥ot that brave. Just Poly and a bit of pressure. Might give the wet sand a go. There鈥檚 still a deeper gouge that I鈥檓 not sure I can reach.
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CBM1590
路You can give it a shot first on a rando piece of plexi or plastic, its not as scary as it sounds. I generally mask off the case if going with sandpaper as the post sandpaper polishing really can take some elbow grease. Also, depending on the bezel removability / height, I'd try to avoid going too far away from the flat "plateau" of the crystal.
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Dan S
路You will definitely need to use sandpaper for that crystal. Don't overthink it, I do it all the time and it's easy enough. It really doesn't matter if you do wet or dry sanding or how you do it, as long as you progress gradually from coarse to fine grits.
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DaveK
路This thread is giving me memories of Tom鈥檚 advocacy for anything less expensive than polywatch 馃榾
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Dan S
路Novus is my go-to.
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GuiltyGear
路You and @GuiltyGear have obviously done this with success. Are you sanding in a circular motion at all times or can you do some straight line work as well in the beginning phase?
As @Dan S said, no need to overthink it. The final pass with 2000 grit will get rid of all the scratches done by the previous grits, and polywatch will get rid of the micron sized scratches of the 2000 grit. It's hard to mess up, even on your first try. Just go through the grits in whatever motion you're comfortable with, apply minimal force, and check your progress frequently.
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abgul
路Polywatch is indeed a fantastic product for polishing watches. It can work wonders in restoring the shine and removing scratches. Kudos to whoever suggested it to you back in September! Keep up the good work with the polishing, and I'm sure your watches will look as good as new in no time.
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Dan S
路
More generative AI, I guess.
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wsfarrell
路Crystal Bright on a buffer. I've had a bar of this stuff for 10 years, and I think it will last me another 10. Depending on how much pressure you use, it will remove deep scratches and/or leave an absolutely perfect, hairline-free finish. In two minutes.
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Scarecrow Boat
路Just don鈥檛 confuse it with your lunch 馃榿
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Joe_A
路Crystal Bright on a buffer. I've had a bar of this stuff for 10 years, and I think it will last me another 10. Depending on how much pressure you use, it will remove deep scratches and/or leave an absolutely perfect, hairline-free finish. In two minutes.
^---- Does that come in dark chocolate as well? 馃榾
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Andreas-am
路Crystal Bright on a buffer. I've had a bar of this stuff for 10 years, and I think it will last me another 10. Depending on how much pressure you use, it will remove deep scratches and/or leave an absolutely perfect, hairline-free finish. In two minutes.
I always use Polywatch, which is ok. But would like to try Crystal Bright. Does anyone have a source from Europe? From the USA it costs 30 USD + 20 USD shipping on eBay. Then there's an additional 10 USD import duty - I find that very expensive...
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GuiltyGear
路Haven't used anything like Crystal Bright, but I've used cheap green compound on a cotton wheel. It makes very quick work of any scratch and polishes in seconds. Just too aggressive for my taste and it can ruin the crystal if you don't know what you're doing.
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Aroxx
路This thread reminded me that I鈥檓 out of Polywatch. My first little tube lasted me a long time, years. Definitely works better than my toothpaste in my experience. Too bad I didn鈥檛 win more at the Mid-Atlantic G2G raffle. The only time I really need it now is if I whack the Speedmaster on something. I鈥檒l probably get the Novus kit next. That should last me a lifetime.
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GuiltunderGlass
路As @Dan S said, no need to overthink it. The final pass with 2000 grit will get rid of all the scratches done by the previous grits, and polywatch will get rid of the micron sized scratches of the 2000 grit. It's hard to mess up, even on your first try. Just go through the grits in whatever motion you're comfortable with, apply minimal force, and check your progress frequently.
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krogerfoot
路I have a rare few hours to myself on Saturday or Sunday so I鈥檒l be taking a trip to the hardware store to apply some wet sanding to this new project.
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