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A tale about crowns [Universal Geneve Polerouter]

Xeer
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I recently acquired not one but TWO UG Polerouters from separate individuals through OF.

The black dialed one obviously came with an incorrect crown. Seller provided an original crown as a replacement but did not have it installed. I brought it to my watchmaker to have it replaced only to realize he could not because the winding stem installed was incorrect (too short).

That made me question the other Polerouter I had received as well. The Silver dialed one you see in the pictures. Compared the 'original crown' provided by the seller of the black dial Polerouter with the crown that was on this silver dial piece. Thickness was different.

My watchmaker insisted the only crown original to these Polerouters was the replacement one I have. So both crowns currently on each of the Polerouters are incorrect.

Can someone shed light and share? Would love to finally understand if any of these are correct at all? - Source two correct crowns/stems for these beauties. Or in the worst case, return the watches to the sellers.
Edited:
 
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Xeer
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Mazoue Mazoue
I would tend to agree with your watchmaker. I think both crowns are wrong. The crown currently on the silver dialled watch looks to be too thin but also not wide enough as it looks to be quite a bit smaller than the recess in the case.

I think the original crowns would have been one of the two types shown and discussed in this thread
https://omegaforums.net/threads/2-polerouters-arrived-today-215-vs-218.40591/

Good insight. Thanks @Mazoue !! Will probably have to start sourcing some crown/stems. Where best to look? This seems to be the best place. If anyone has extras!! Let me know.
 
jsflog
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Nice watches!
Polerouter are very sought after these days.
Are crystals original with the etched "U" logo in the center?
Thanks
 
Oku
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jsflog jsflog
Are crystals original with the etched "U" logo in the center?
At least, the black one has the logo. Look at pic 3.
 
chronoboy64
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Congrats !
I also agree with @Mazoue opion on the two crowns.
Good luck for hunting one or two original crowns / stems !
 
Aedaxoo
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i was also interested in buying these from OF and am happy that i didn't because these problems are irritating but congrats on these beauty's. i hope you have a lot of fun with these beautiful examples.
 
10H10
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chronoboy64 chronoboy64
Congrats !
I also agree with @Mazoue opion on the two crowns.
Good luck for hunting one or two original crowns / stems !
Stems are easy to find, not the crowns...
 
paulwatch001
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Enjoy both of these watches they are really great examples.
Over time you will find new stems or a donor watch. All part of vintage watch collecting and adds to the fun in a way.
If you get a decent donor it could still be a collectible and usable watch. Even when parts have been swapped out, but your great examples will be even better.
I’d take both of yours any day, they’re just lovely.
 
GuiltyBoomerang
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I've had a 215-1 gold capped Polerouter since mid last year and have been on the hunt for a crown from the on.

What you will find is that the crowns need to be recessed in the inner edge so that it fits over the crown tube of the case.

This also means that most of the crowns online, though they may be the correct diameter (4.5mm) will not fit correctly as they are not thick enough.

Good luck with your hunt!
 
Xeer
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Oku Oku
At least, the black one has the logo. Look at pic 3.

Yes, the black one does have the logo, signed crystal. The silver one however, I'd argue is original as well? The trapezoid is almost perfect.
 
Xeer
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paulwatch001 paulwatch001
Enjoy both of these watches they are really great examples.
Over time you will find new stems or a donor watch. All part of vintage watch collecting and adds to the fun in a way.
If you get a decent donor it could still be a collectible and usable watch. Even when parts have been swapped out, but your great examples will be even better.
I’d take both of yours any day, they’re just lovely.

That is a very thoughtful comment. I am going to try my best to make them as original as can be.
 
Carlton-Browne
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10H10 10H10
Stems are easy to find, not the crowns...

That was my thinking as well but some watchmakers seem to have a problem with recovering crowns; I sort of understand this if you are talking about a complex affair on a dive watch but not with a three-hand dress watch. I got my FS Italian Railroad for a song but one of the issues was a broken stem. The watchmaker at the time who did most of my work was not prepared to salvage the crown and would only fit a generic on a new stem - this I declined and I found somebody to do the work. It's probably true to describe the first watchmaker (now retired) as somebody principally interested in regular turnover of simple jobs and his charges largely reflected this - I'm quite a bit happier with the chap I'm using now.
 
Xeer
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A wealth of knowledge being shared here. Big thanks to @gop76

We've found the original stems now just missing ONE period correct original UG Polerouter crown.

I figured where better to ask than OF? If anyone happens to have a spare.. please let me know!
 
Selbo
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Apologies to Xeer for veering off topic but can someone explain the issue with the Polerouter design when it comes to crowns? I don't know much about the mechanics of the watch but I feel like 60 to 70% of Polerouters you see have a replacement crown. Why is this? It's common to see a Polerouter in fantastic condition but with a replacement crown. Is the stem incredibly fragile? Poor design? What's more frustrating is that replacement crowns are so hard to find. Anyway, been meaning to ask. This seemed like a good place.
 
10H10
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Carlton-Browne Carlton-Browne
That was my thinking as well but some watchmakers seem to have a problem with recovering crowns; I sort of understand this if you are talking about a complex affair on a dive watch but not with a three-hand dress watch. I got my FS Italian Railroad for a song but one of the issues was a broken stem. The watchmaker at the time who did most of my work was not prepared to salvage the crown and would only fit a generic on a new stem - this I declined and I found somebody to do the work. It's probably true to describe the first watchmaker (now retired) as somebody principally interested in regular turnover of simple jobs and his charges largely reflected this - I'm quite a bit happier with the chap I'm using now.
You just dip the crown and the stem in a watchmaker product made by bergeon and you unscrew it. If it's broken at the edge, it is still posible to take it out, my watchmaker can do it and he is not a special hotshot... 😉
 
Mazoue
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Selbo Selbo
Apologies to Xeer for veering off topic but can someone explain the issue with the Polerouter design when it comes to crowns? I don't know much about the mechanics of the watch but I feel like 60 to 70% of Polerouters you see have a replacement crown. Why is this? It's common to see a Polerouter in fantastic condition but with a replacement crown. Is the stem incredibly fragile? Poor design? What's more frustrating is that replacement crowns are so hard to find. Anyway, been meaning to ask. This seemed like a good place.

An interesting question. I hadn't really noticed that with steel Polerouters.

I had noticed that crowns on gold or gold capped Polerouters have very often been replaced. I had always assumed that was because the plated crowns got worn and scruffy and were replaced by a new generic gold crown in order to make the watch more presentable.

If someone has a spare gold Polerouter crown, I'd love to hear from them - I've been looking for one for ages.
 
GuiltyBoomerang
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Would probably agree on @Mazoue on the crowns - the plating on them seems to wear quite quickly, considering their age. I'd also wager that tube has something to do with wearing it down on the inside.

10H10 10H10
You just dip the crown and the stem in a watchmaker product made by bergeon and you unscrew it.

That would be a pin-vise.
 
CafeRacer
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Apologies for the late input Xeer - The first crown is correct if the case reference is 869111/02
The spare crown you have in your hand looks to come from an 869113 or 204612 reference.
 
taka
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Here is my ref.20368-1 (Cal.215-9).
I think this crown is correct as it came from the original owner with service record.
I have few spare stocks, so holler at me if anyone needs one.
 
ug_crown.jpg
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