joeshoup
·After an impulsive late-night eBay offer last month, this interesting little number arrived today - my second Longines and first ever tank. Since there doesn't seem to be much material here on this watch or its movement, I thought I'd share some research and questions.
Here's what I'm pretty sure about:
- A deco-style tank watch with single-step stainless steel case
- Serial number 5,320,4xx suggests production in 1934
- 9.40 movement with côtes de Genève finishing and center seconds complication. Runs well and winds and sets smoothly but shows its age. Seller claims it was "serviced" but it is adjusted well only in the crown-up position, and the regulator arm is as far to slow as it can go.
- Two-tone metallic dial appears to be original and has a lot of life experience 😁
- Blued hands appear to be original: very cute, plump, and stubby
- Crystal fits fine, but is not correct as its tapered sides obscure part of the 10 and 8 on the dial
- Crown appears to be original, or at least is the right shape.
Here's what I think I know but would enjoy your input:
Movement
The 9.40 movement appears to be seldom seen. Even Ranfft doesn't list it! According to this site, the 9.40 is an savonette produced between 1926 and 1939. It's an old-fashioned design - the multiple curving bridges on the train are a design approach carried over from late 19th century pocketwatches. The 9.40 is 9 lignes or 22.6mm in diameter – it is identical to the 10.40 except for its size and in fact shares all parts except for the main plates. (In this iteration of the Longines numbering system, the first number must refer to the size in lignes.)
The 1929 French catalogue shared by @bigbug1964 seems to show the 9.40 mostly used in ladies’ movements. I get the sense that this style of movement was a little bit old-fashioned by the mid-1930s.
Reference
I think this watch is a Ref. 3640, which is listed in the 1936 and 1937 French catalogs (but not the 1938 Italian catalogue). As seen in the image below, in 1936 the 3640 has the same hands, case, and dial as mine, but with dots rather than lines at the odd-numbers instead of lines. It's noticeable in the 1936 catalogue that the men's references all use the 25.17, except for the 3640. In the 1937 catalogue, however, Longines switched to the rectangular 25.17 movement for this reference. Perhaps it took them a while to adapt the 25.17 to the center seconds complication. It is interesting that the reference number was rooted in the style rather than the mechanicals - it is hard to imagine a brand today switching the movement type without changing the model number. 650Fr was about $43 US dollars in 1934, which would be about $940 today. Not an inexpensive watch!
The other examples of ref. 3640 that I can find all have ref 25.17, such as this nice one in 9k gold, currently for sale here on the forum. (I am not sure about the hands however.)
Doctor's watch or pilot watch?
What drew me to this watch was the center seconds complication, which recalls the Omega Medicus CK651, and the Rolex ref 2149 (the latter with quite a similar dial design). Member @imfagent449 suggests that the ref. 3640 was a pilot’s watch, and links to a Romanian site showing a number of examples of its use in Romanian military aviation during WWII (though none quite matching my watch). A doctor’s watch, a pilot watch, or both? I am curious why the Omega Medicus is widely collected while the Longines analog is little-known.
I've sent a request for an extract to Longines and will update the thread when it comes back. Your thoughts welcome in the meantime!
Here's what I'm pretty sure about:
- A deco-style tank watch with single-step stainless steel case
- Serial number 5,320,4xx suggests production in 1934
- 9.40 movement with côtes de Genève finishing and center seconds complication. Runs well and winds and sets smoothly but shows its age. Seller claims it was "serviced" but it is adjusted well only in the crown-up position, and the regulator arm is as far to slow as it can go.
- Two-tone metallic dial appears to be original and has a lot of life experience 😁
- Blued hands appear to be original: very cute, plump, and stubby
- Crystal fits fine, but is not correct as its tapered sides obscure part of the 10 and 8 on the dial
- Crown appears to be original, or at least is the right shape.
Here's what I think I know but would enjoy your input:
Movement
The 9.40 movement appears to be seldom seen. Even Ranfft doesn't list it! According to this site, the 9.40 is an savonette produced between 1926 and 1939. It's an old-fashioned design - the multiple curving bridges on the train are a design approach carried over from late 19th century pocketwatches. The 9.40 is 9 lignes or 22.6mm in diameter – it is identical to the 10.40 except for its size and in fact shares all parts except for the main plates. (In this iteration of the Longines numbering system, the first number must refer to the size in lignes.)
The 1929 French catalogue shared by @bigbug1964 seems to show the 9.40 mostly used in ladies’ movements. I get the sense that this style of movement was a little bit old-fashioned by the mid-1930s.
Reference
I think this watch is a Ref. 3640, which is listed in the 1936 and 1937 French catalogs (but not the 1938 Italian catalogue). As seen in the image below, in 1936 the 3640 has the same hands, case, and dial as mine, but with dots rather than lines at the odd-numbers instead of lines. It's noticeable in the 1936 catalogue that the men's references all use the 25.17, except for the 3640. In the 1937 catalogue, however, Longines switched to the rectangular 25.17 movement for this reference. Perhaps it took them a while to adapt the 25.17 to the center seconds complication. It is interesting that the reference number was rooted in the style rather than the mechanicals - it is hard to imagine a brand today switching the movement type without changing the model number. 650Fr was about $43 US dollars in 1934, which would be about $940 today. Not an inexpensive watch!
The other examples of ref. 3640 that I can find all have ref 25.17, such as this nice one in 9k gold, currently for sale here on the forum. (I am not sure about the hands however.)
Doctor's watch or pilot watch?
What drew me to this watch was the center seconds complication, which recalls the Omega Medicus CK651, and the Rolex ref 2149 (the latter with quite a similar dial design). Member @imfagent449 suggests that the ref. 3640 was a pilot’s watch, and links to a Romanian site showing a number of examples of its use in Romanian military aviation during WWII (though none quite matching my watch). A doctor’s watch, a pilot watch, or both? I am curious why the Omega Medicus is widely collected while the Longines analog is little-known.
I've sent a request for an extract to Longines and will update the thread when it comes back. Your thoughts welcome in the meantime!