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1969 Seamaster 168.024 refinished

yafayu
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For those read my previous post, I’ve got my 1969 Seamaster back from the watch shop, refinished.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/dad’s-1969-seamaster-168-024-166-010-cal-564.155565/

it’s a 1969 Omega Seamaster. Cal 564 with Chronometer Certified. With original bead of rice bracelet. Send out for a week for repair and maintenance.

EEE2D300-130A-4C02-91F5-861C76EFB5BF.jpeg 07AA23D9-A3B0-4EA2-965F-65B61AF2F6EF.jpeg


The watch shop replaced the crown rod, automatic rotor center rod due to rust. Replaced the broken calibre mount. He cleaned the watch and bracelet without compromise the original condition. Here are pictures.

4FC61242-A06B-4A5A-9A2E-A1C9D65790B5.jpeg BF508B96-D18F-4AA7-A41B-62AEE380EF0F.jpeg 769DA19B-9314-4473-833F-A81C073315A5.jpeg E4DED3F0-2167-424E-811A-E7ABBC9FF60E.jpeg B881412A-7757-436E-8656-0B003D8DC29A.jpeg
 
SkunkPrince
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Looks like a decent job. Those end links could be adjusted better... they shouldn't move. You migh consider 2mm diameter/thick spring bars, it helps to tighten those end links.
 
yafayu
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SkunkPrince SkunkPrince
Looks like a decent job. Those end links could be adjusted better... they shouldn't move. You migh consider 2mm diameter/thick spring bars, it helps to tighten those end links.

Thank you and can you point out which end links are loose? Sorry for the newbie ‍question
 
JimInOz
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yafayu yafayu
Thank you and can you point out which end links are loose? Sorry for the newbie ‍question
He's referring to the "end plates" where the spring bar goes through. There's a gap between the case and the plate. Using a thicker spring bar would help to close the gap and give the watch a neater more fitted appearance.
 
yafayu
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JimInOz JimInOz
He's referring to the "end plates" where the spring bar goes through. There's a gap between the case and the plate. Using a thicker spring bar would help to close the gap and give the watch a neater more fitted appearance.

Thank you! Got it now
 
Passover
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Two different endlinks here, ironically it seems the the generic one (upper side, no stamped '511' and with a different shape) has a better fit than the original Omega end link (stamped 511)

OP, did you adjust the bracelet to your wrist size? Seems to be a bit loose...
 
yafayu
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Passover Passover
Two different endlinks here, ironically it seems the the generic one (upper side, no stamped '511' and with a different shape) has a better fit than the original Omega end link (stamped 511)

OP, did you adjust the bracelet to your wrist size? Seems to be a bit loose...

Yes I did adjust to my wrist, it fits okay on me. I noticed other people have the same bracelet also only one 511 stamp. Maybe it’s how it is?
 
Passover
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yafayu yafayu
Yes I did adjust to my wrist, it fits okay on me

Thats fine, was just asking... 👍
 
river9
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SkunkPrince SkunkPrince
Looks like a decent job. Those end links could be adjusted better... they shouldn't move. You migh consider 2mm diameter/thick spring bars, it helps to tighten those end links.

Agreed with @SkunkPrince


yafayu yafayu
Thank you and can you point out which end links are loose? Sorry for the newbie ‍question

I had had this problem and a collector friend of mine suggested the use of fatter spring bars. See difference between 2 types of spring bars. The right ones are bigger in diameter. They were the ones I eventually used to fix loose endlinks on BoR bracelet.

yellow boxes to show gaps:
92F66F17-1E6C-4FEC-B63F-621EC39205A9.jpeg


Two types of spring bars. The right ones are fatter.
74948A5D-77DA-4ECC-A613-D886E5B304AA.jpeg
 
yafayu
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river9 river9
Agreed with @SkunkPrince


I had had this problem and a collector friend of mine suggested the use of fatter spring bars. See difference between 2 types of spring bars. The right ones are bigger in diameter. They were the ones I eventually used to fix loose endlinks on BoR bracelet.

yellow boxes to show gaps:
92F66F17-1E6C-4FEC-B63F-621EC39205A9.jpeg


Two types of spring bars. The right ones are fatter.
74948A5D-77DA-4ECC-A613-D886E5B304AA.jpeg

Thank you! I really appreciate your pictures with explanation
 
xbarx1
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I just picked up a 1970 model and have issues with the end links. My bracelet is not original to the watch and end links don't roll under like one pic above shows. I'm glad I did a search, fat spring bars might help. I was thinking I'd have to buy new end links. I will try the fat bars first. Thanks!
 
70 SeamasterOTW.JPG
krogerfoot
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xbarx1 xbarx1
I just picked up a 1970 model and have issues with the end links. My bracelet is not original to the watch and end links don't roll under like one pic above shows. I'm glad I did a search, fat spring bars might help. I was thinking I'd have to buy new end links. I will try the fat bars first. Thanks!
Fat springbars usually improve things, but your endlinks seem pretty tight. Poorly fitted ones tend to clatter on the wrist and the bottom one droops open when held up like you’re doing.
 
xbarx1
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krogerfoot krogerfoot
Fat springbars usually improve things, but your endlinks seem pretty tight. Poorly fitted ones tend to clatter on the wrist and the bottom one droops open when held up like you’re doing.

I had to get the end links in place to get that pic. They move about a little too freely. The end link on the 12 side tends to point up and the pointy sides, tend to snag on anything the pointed tip touches. I hope the spring bars will help. I think I can snug up the fit some, looks like that back side tabs were pulled away by the previous owner.
The spring bars that are in this now are really skinny, thinner than anything I have. I ordered several sets of the 2.5mm diameter type to use on this watch and a couple others. I also want to try and find the end links that roll over a bit along the edge of the watch. That just looks right. I have a few other Seamasters on BOR bracelets and a Duchess of New York styled oyster bracelet that might benefit from the fat bars as well.
 
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