1966 Gold Omega

Not 1966, it's a 1950s model. More like 1956 in fact (plus or minus a year). Possibly a redialled model 2852 deluxe though it could be original and just dirty, it's hard to tell with that scratched crystal but I doubt it as there are several anomalies. Regardless of the head, the bracelet is worth more than melt so consider that separately to the head. Those have a press on back. If you want further info you'll need to get that removed. Or remove it yourself carefully with a case knife. The model number and serial are within, my guess is a serial number of around 15-16m. Once you have the info and photos of the interior, sell it on ebay at auction where it will reach its true value.

The reason I know that it wasn't made in 1966 is that they stopped making the lyre lug Connie models around 1962, and changed the spelling of the word Chronometer (from French to English) around 1958. It may well have been all original when purchased (or maybe not) but dials were routinely worked on at service time back in the day. My point was that if as I suspect the watch dial has issues, selling the bracelet separately will maximise your return. Don't concern yourself with unrealistic buy it now asking prices on there, get all the info I mentioned above then sell it at a $1/£1/€1 starting price auction with better photos and it will find its true and fair level.

One other hint to its age is that they often put a model number and date code onto the underside of the bracelet. It may say something like 7077, 1/57. If you can post what you see there it might be enlightening.

These don't come up for sale too often - shame about the stains on the dial, but rather valuable regardless.

An eBay ad with clear pictures from all angles, taken in indirect daylight would be your easiest way to get market value for it. It might sound odd, but I think the picture quality a modern iPhone can produce will be enough, and here's why:

The dial is in a pretty rough state it seems, at the bear minimum there's significant stains on the polished, outter part of the dial between 8 and 10. This alone means it's not attractive to a hardcore collector and reduces the value significantly. It is still a solid gold watch with a solid gold dial, though, so the price won't be effected as badly as it would be on a stainless steel watch, for example. A very good example might fetch something like 3.5-4k$, for this one it might only be 2.5k$+ - still a lot of money, though. To get to the high end of the price range, many detailed pictures are necessary to show the watch is actually in great condition. For yours, standard, good phone shots from all angles will suffice in my opinion.

Now, to the bracelet. I have to admit that I'm actually looking for a yellow gold 7077, which is what yours is (even though it might not say so anywhere on it), so from my own research from the last year or so:
A full length example weighs 57g. To check yours for full length, here's one for comparison. Excuse the bad lighting, I hope it'll still serve the purpose:
Red are the endlinks that sit between the lugs of your watch. Don't count them in. Yellow are the "regular" links - it should be 8 on each side. Green are the "double stretch links". On mine, you can see 3 double-links on each side of the clasp, note that the factory length that brings it to 57g would be five in total (2 on one, 3 on the other side). I can see 5 in one of your pictures, so for now I'll assume yours is full length and thus weighs 57g. For your own count: it's easiest to just look at the outter row.

Since it's on an 18k watch (the so-called "deluxe" Constellations with solid-gold dial don't exist in 14k), I assume the bracelet is 18k, too. At current gold value, that'll bring it to roughly 2250$. For one of those "flatlink" bracelets in very nice shape, you can add ~30% in value, so approx. 2900-3000$. Yours will likely be a little less, the center pieces look like they don't carry their original brushing anymore and it's a question if the stretch links (marked green in the pic above) do actually still stretch smoothly or if they need new springs etc, but all that won't bring the value down by much. I don't see this go for less than gold value + 20%, which is still 2700$.

While, personally, I'd love to see you split bracelet and watch in separate eBay auctions, as I'd surely be bidding on the bracelet, I think I'd honestly rather keep them together if I were you. It's a beautiful combination and might draw in more bidders. Either way, it's certainly not going to make a huge difference. Expect to get 5k$ or a bit more in total, minus eBay fees. That'll be significantly more than pure gold value, which should be very roughly 3600$ or so.

I'm glad it's worth more - melting it would be blasphemy, frankly. 😀

And in case my blabbering was too much to read, that right there is your most important advise in a nutshell. 😉

Would love to see that! If the buckle on the leather strap is 18k, that’s also another 250-300$ or so by the way. 😀 And it’s great you even have the papers. Is there also an Omega box by any chance? That’d raise the value even more.

If you let us know where you’re located (country and possibly city, no full address please) we might even be able to recommend a dealer who could help with a sale. If that’ll achieve a better result - their fee will likely be more than eBay’s - I don’t know.

Oh, and just a small detail: The crown is a replacement, so the watch must’ve been opened at some point. Hardly surprising, though, it might have been serviced at some point in its life and received a new crown to withstand water/humidity better. The dial looks like this wasn’t particularly successful, though.

I am rowing back on my earlier suggestion that it has been redialled. In the latest clearer pics it looks rather tired but likely original. I wasn't far off with my other earlier guesses, all the info you need to sell it is on the paperwork. I guessed 2852 at 15-16m serial, It is in fact model 2853 (a posher all gold version of the 2852, they are often double marked) on a 14.97m serial so therefore from ~1956. Did you check the bracelet clasp for marks?

Would this gold dial be actual gold or gold paint? If gold would it be possible to clean it mostly?
I'm trying to learn here.

It’s solid gold, the text is printed on it. Cleaning it might be more likely on the polished, outside part as it might be polished again and the clear coat reapplied. It’s a very delicate job though and questionable how much well it’ll work out. For the center part of the dial it’s even more difficult as you’ll likely destroy the writing and would have to reprint it. This would mean you’ll end up with a redial, of course, which destroys the value to any collector.

The bezel looks too slim to me for a 2853, looks more like a 2700. I'd also expect an applied 'Omega' on a 2853, so if the movement serial is correct then there must have been a mix up with the papers somewhere.

Thanks, so it is gold with a lacquer of some kind, I understand now that is is the lacquer that holds the discolouration and would be hard to fix.

Very good point. Bezel width I found a little hard to judge with the amount of junk but the absence of an applied omega logo sounds indeed like an earlier deluxe ref. In the end, it’d need to be opened up.