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1940’s/50’s Omega Chronograph

Alex H
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Hi All, I wondering if members here may be able to give me some advice and thoughts. I’m keen to purchase a late 1940’s - 1950’s 18ct yellow gold 321 Calibre Omega chronograph. In researching I have come across a seemingly respectable dealer selling a 1948 timepiece. It’s untouched and the face/watch has not been restored (my preferred option). It’s been serviced and in running order. It also presents with a document of authenticity. It’s has a replacement Omega crown. And the strap is not original to the watch, but is Omega. The timepiece is offered at £6350. However, here’s my confusion. Running the case and movement serial numbers through the Omega database, the year of manufacture is showing 1944, not 48? And the case & movement numbers are different? Is this typical in older time pieces? Also, examining the movement, I can’t see any ‘321’ engraving? Is this typical for this movement age? Or is there something more going on here? And finally, the price? Does £6350 sound reasonable? Apologies for bombarding everyone with all these questions, but I’m new to this Omega vintage research and very cautious! Photos attached. Many thanks in advance. Alex

IMG_2329.webp IMG_2328.webp IMG_2327.webp IMG_2326.webp IMG_2324.webp
 
Dan S
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The movement serial suggests 1945. Movement and caseback numbers are not expected to be the same. Regarding price, you will ultimately need to do your own research using auction sales, but one thing I will add is that the dial is usually considered to be nearly half the value of the watch, and this dial has some major flaws that most people will find unappealing. Obviously you want an original dial, but if you are going to spend real money on a watch, I would think you would want a more attractive dial.
 
Alex H
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Dan S Dan S
The movement serial suggests 1945. Movement and caseback numbers are not expected to be the same. Regarding price, you will ultimately need to do your own research using auction sales, but one thing I will add is that the dial is usually considered to be nearly half the value of the watch, and this dial has some major flaws that most people will find unappealing. Obviously you want an original dial, but if you are going to spend real money on a watch, I would think you would want a more attractive dial.
 
Alex H
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Thanks Dan, that’s really helpful. I’m rapidly discovering the vintage Omega market is a challenging one! I’ve found a few 40’s/50’s chronographs for sale. Some look pristine and ‘new’. The faces look like they’ve had full restorations? Does this detract from the long-term value of the watch? I guess it’s about trying to strike a balance. I prefer some patina, but I’m struggling with how much is acceptable? It’s all about personal taste, I suppose? But I don’t want to spend thousands, only to discover later that I’ve over-paid. I’m London, UK based. Can anyone recommend or suggest reputable outlets that are recognised as ‘safe’ sales? Many thanks.
 
Larry S
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If you use the search function on cal 321, you will find threads that will help you. I do think there are better examples with fewer issues out there and patience is your friend. This dial is too far gone for a dress watch despite its relatively even patina. I also think that the movement should show that 321 as other examples have it. I own a bunch of gold chronographs and I’d pass on this one.
 
Dan S
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Alex H Alex H
Thanks Dan, that’s really helpful. I’m rapidly discovering the vintage Omega market is a challenging one! I’ve found a few 40’s/50’s chronographs for sale. Some look pristine and ‘new’. The faces look like they’ve had full restorations? Does this detract from the long-term value of the watch? I guess it’s about trying to strike a balance. I prefer some patina, but I’m struggling with how much is acceptable? It’s all about personal taste, I suppose? But I don’t want to spend thousands, only to discover later that I’ve over-paid. I’m London, UK based. Can anyone recommend or suggest reputable outlets that are recognised as ‘safe’ sales? Many thanks.
Yes, a repainted dial completely destroys the collectible value. But this dial is too far gone for me, especially the damage on the minute totalizer sub-dial. The rest of the damage (water damage and fading around the perimeter) might be tolerable depending on personal taste, but it's pretty significant and dramatically impacts value. I certainly would not pay a premium to buy a watch like this from a dealer.

No seller is safe IMO, you really need to educate yourself.
 
Vitezi
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Hi @Alex H and welcome to the forum. The opinions that you will get on this forum are from vintage watch collectors, for whom authenticity, originality, and condition are the key determinants of value. Of course, not everyone feels that way, which is why you will find lots of restored watches for sale. If you're interested in hunting for a watch like a watch collector does, the first step is to educate yourself on what an original unrestored watch looks like. Here are a few threads to help you with your research:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-321-solid-gold-omega-chronograph.155655/ Cover Image
Thread 'Vintage 321 solid gold omega chronograph' ·
Thoughts on this piece? I am thinking about bidding towards the end, but I can't find this specific watch. Is it a Franken? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Auction ends in a couple of hours...
killshot ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-omega-chronograph-2466-thoughts.109995/ Cover Image
Thread 'Vintage Omega Chronograph - 2466 - Thoughts?' ·
First time poster here. I have an opportunity to acquire this vintage chrono from my local Omega AD. Here is what I know about the watch:

-Case #2466
-Serial #16XXXXXX (1958?)
-18kt gold
-321...
Jake85 ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-18k-cal-321-chonograph-non-seamaster.114779/ jshaw083
Thread 'Omega 18k Cal 321 Chonograph (non-Seamaster)' ·
Hi all,

Recently saw what I think is a good example of a non-Seamaster vintage Omega Cal 321 chronograph in 18k gold. I haven't seen many of these tbh, so I can't say I'm well equipped to tell...
jshaw083 ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/advice-sought-omega-321-18ct-dress-chronograph.188927/ H
Thread 'Advice sought: Omega 321 18ct dress chronograph' ·
Good day,
Before purchasing an Omega dress chronograph cal. 321, 18 ct gold, I figured it made sense to seek advice from an impartial source, so registered for the Omegaforums.
I would really...
hed ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/thoughts-on-this-1940s-cal-321-chronograph-rose-gold.186274/ Cover Image
Thread 'Thoughts on this 1940s cal 321 Chronograph rose gold?' ·
Considering this piece cal 321 from 1944-1946 rose gold. Asking price is $6,000 with 3-y warranty, serviced this year. Redial, crown original. Thoughts on price considering it's a redial? do these...
felix_egt ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/in-defense-of-gold-plated-321-seamasters-there-can-be-advantages.98722/ Cover Image
Thread 'In defense of gold plated 321 Seamasters - there can be advantages' ·
Like many, I long harbored a prejudice against all the gold plated 321 Seamasters. I’d look them over and frequently rapidly dismiss them without a more careful examination.

Well, I’ve...
airansun ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/not-all-321s-are-speedmasters.22332/ Cover Image
Thread 'Not all 321's are Speedmasters.....' ·
Of course most people know that, but for some while I viewed early Seamaster 321's simply as potential donors for ailing speedmasters. Several years ago I bought this and put it in the safe for...
Spacefruit ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/seamaster-321-too-many-downsides-on-this-one.177749/ Cover Image
Thread 'Seamaster 321 - too many downsides on this one?' ·
Hi everyone, the seamaster chronographs have always had a soft spot but unfortunately not always easy to find.
I came across this one which is far from perfect, but with still an attractive dial...
Sa Calobra ·
 
Alex H
Posts
12
Likes
8
Vitezi Vitezi
Hi @Alex H and welcome to the forum. The opinions that you will get on this forum are from vintage watch collectors, for whom authenticity, originality, and condition are the key determinants of value. Of course, not everyone feels that way, which is why you will find lots of restored watches for sale. If you're interested in hunting for a watch like a watch collector does, the first step is to educate yourself on what an original unrestored watch looks like. Here are a few threads to help you with your research:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-321-solid-gold-omega-chronograph.155655/ Cover Image
Thread 'Vintage 321 solid gold omega chronograph' ·
Thoughts on this piece? I am thinking about bidding towards the end, but I can't find this specific watch. Is it a Franken? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Auction ends in a couple of hours...
killshot ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-omega-chronograph-2466-thoughts.109995/ Cover Image
Thread 'Vintage Omega Chronograph - 2466 - Thoughts?' ·
First time poster here. I have an opportunity to acquire this vintage chrono from my local Omega AD. Here is what I know about the watch:

-Case #2466
-Serial #16XXXXXX (1958?)
-18kt gold
-321...
Jake85 ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-18k-cal-321-chonograph-non-seamaster.114779/ jshaw083
Thread 'Omega 18k Cal 321 Chonograph (non-Seamaster)' ·
Hi all,

Recently saw what I think is a good example of a non-Seamaster vintage Omega Cal 321 chronograph in 18k gold. I haven't seen many of these tbh, so I can't say I'm well equipped to tell...
jshaw083 ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/advice-sought-omega-321-18ct-dress-chronograph.188927/ H
Thread 'Advice sought: Omega 321 18ct dress chronograph' ·
Good day,
Before purchasing an Omega dress chronograph cal. 321, 18 ct gold, I figured it made sense to seek advice from an impartial source, so registered for the Omegaforums.
I would really...
hed ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/thoughts-on-this-1940s-cal-321-chronograph-rose-gold.186274/ Cover Image
Thread 'Thoughts on this 1940s cal 321 Chronograph rose gold?' ·
Considering this piece cal 321 from 1944-1946 rose gold. Asking price is $6,000 with 3-y warranty, serviced this year. Redial, crown original. Thoughts on price considering it's a redial? do these...
felix_egt ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/in-defense-of-gold-plated-321-seamasters-there-can-be-advantages.98722/ Cover Image
Thread 'In defense of gold plated 321 Seamasters - there can be advantages' ·
Like many, I long harbored a prejudice against all the gold plated 321 Seamasters. I’d look them over and frequently rapidly dismiss them without a more careful examination.

Well, I’ve...
airansun ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/not-all-321s-are-speedmasters.22332/ Cover Image
Thread 'Not all 321's are Speedmasters.....' ·
Of course most people know that, but for some while I viewed early Seamaster 321's simply as potential donors for ailing speedmasters. Several years ago I bought this and put it in the safe for...
Spacefruit ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/seamaster-321-too-many-downsides-on-this-one.177749/ Cover Image
Thread 'Seamaster 321 - too many downsides on this one?' ·
Hi everyone, the seamaster chronographs have always had a soft spot but unfortunately not always easy to find.
I came across this one which is far from perfect, but with still an attractive dial...
Sa Calobra ·
 
Alex H
Posts
12
Likes
8
Vitezi Vitezi
Hi @Alex H and welcome to the forum. The opinions that you will get on this forum are from vintage watch collectors, for whom authenticity, originality, and condition are the key determinants of value. Of course, not everyone feels that way, which is why you will find lots of restored watches for sale. If you're interested in hunting for a watch like a watch collector does, the first step is to educate yourself on what an original unrestored watch looks like. Here are a few threads to help you with your research:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-321-solid-gold-omega-chronograph.155655/ Cover Image
Thread 'Vintage 321 solid gold omega chronograph' ·
Thoughts on this piece? I am thinking about bidding towards the end, but I can't find this specific watch. Is it a Franken? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Auction ends in a couple of hours...
killshot ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-omega-chronograph-2466-thoughts.109995/ Cover Image
Thread 'Vintage Omega Chronograph - 2466 - Thoughts?' ·
First time poster here. I have an opportunity to acquire this vintage chrono from my local Omega AD. Here is what I know about the watch:

-Case #2466
-Serial #16XXXXXX (1958?)
-18kt gold
-321...
Jake85 ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-18k-cal-321-chonograph-non-seamaster.114779/ jshaw083
Thread 'Omega 18k Cal 321 Chonograph (non-Seamaster)' ·
Hi all,

Recently saw what I think is a good example of a non-Seamaster vintage Omega Cal 321 chronograph in 18k gold. I haven't seen many of these tbh, so I can't say I'm well equipped to tell...
jshaw083 ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/advice-sought-omega-321-18ct-dress-chronograph.188927/ H
Thread 'Advice sought: Omega 321 18ct dress chronograph' ·
Good day,
Before purchasing an Omega dress chronograph cal. 321, 18 ct gold, I figured it made sense to seek advice from an impartial source, so registered for the Omegaforums.
I would really...
hed ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/thoughts-on-this-1940s-cal-321-chronograph-rose-gold.186274/ Cover Image
Thread 'Thoughts on this 1940s cal 321 Chronograph rose gold?' ·
Considering this piece cal 321 from 1944-1946 rose gold. Asking price is $6,000 with 3-y warranty, serviced this year. Redial, crown original. Thoughts on price considering it's a redial? do these...
felix_egt ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/in-defense-of-gold-plated-321-seamasters-there-can-be-advantages.98722/ Cover Image
Thread 'In defense of gold plated 321 Seamasters - there can be advantages' ·
Like many, I long harbored a prejudice against all the gold plated 321 Seamasters. I’d look them over and frequently rapidly dismiss them without a more careful examination.

Well, I’ve...
airansun ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/not-all-321s-are-speedmasters.22332/ Cover Image
Thread 'Not all 321's are Speedmasters.....' ·
Of course most people know that, but for some while I viewed early Seamaster 321's simply as potential donors for ailing speedmasters. Several years ago I bought this and put it in the safe for...
Spacefruit ·
https://omegaforums.net/threads/seamaster-321-too-many-downsides-on-this-one.177749/ Cover Image
Thread 'Seamaster 321 - too many downsides on this one?' ·
Hi everyone, the seamaster chronographs have always had a soft spot but unfortunately not always easy to find.
I came across this one which is far from perfect, but with still an attractive dial...
Sa Calobra ·
Many thanks Vitezi, Dan & Larry. Your experience and expertise is highly valuable to a complete novice like me. I have no aspirations to become a collector, but I do obviously want to purchase a genuine, attractive, fully operational vintage Omega. An interesting point that 50% of the value in the watch is with the face. Highly relevant when looking at the face on the chronograph in my attached images. There’s no denying it’s showing its age, and I’ll heed the advice & thoughts given by all, and pass on this particular watch. There is no timescale with my purchase. I’m in no hurry, so I’ll keep looking and read through the threads kindly attached by Vitezi. Many thanks.
 
Peemacgee
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If you were not aware @Alex H, the reason that the dials on these chronographs are often degraded by moisture is that these type of pushers have no moisture ( or dust) resistance.
Many (possibly the majority) have been repainted due to moisture degradation.

However, some dials with these pushers do survive in good condition - and they can be found with a little patience.
But because of the pushers they don’t make for good ‘everyday’ watches.

Here is my cal 320 - a little later than your target date range.
IMG_0044.webp
 
Larry S
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Peemacgee Peemacgee
If you were not aware @Alex H, the reason that the dials on these chronographs are often degraded by moisture is that these type of pushers have no moisture ( or dust) resistance.
Many (possibly the majority) have been repainted due to moisture degradation.

However, some dials with these pushers do survive in good condition - and they can be found with a little patience.
But because of the pushers they don’t make for good ‘everyday’ watches.

Here is my cal 320 - a little later than your target date range.
IMG_0044.webp
Indeed …Running through an airport on a hot July day wearing a gold Tri_Compax proved that point for me. It went straight into a bag of rice at the hotel and straight to the watchmaker upon returning home. These watches are best worn on cool dry days or civilized occasions like office wear etc. Something you need to consider if this is to be a daily wearer.
 
Alex H
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12
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8
Peemacgee Peemacgee
If you were not aware @Alex H, the reason that the dials on these chronographs are often degraded by moisture is that these type of pushers have no moisture ( or dust) resistance.
Many (possibly the majority) have been repainted due to moisture degradation.

However, some dials with these pushers do survive in good condition - and they can be found with a little patience.
But because of the pushers they don’t make for good ‘everyday’ watches.

Here is my cal 320 - a little later than your target date range.
IMG_0044.webp
Many thanks Peemacgee. I wasn’t aware of that fact about the pushers. My challenge at the moment is where to look? The web is awash with online dealers and, to be honest, some of the gold chronographs are looking over restored. I don’t mind some patina and I would prefer a watch with an original face. I’ll heed the advice, and exercise a little patience. And try to educate myself with the basics and what to look out for. My preference is for 1940’s/ 50’s timepieces. But would equally consider early 60’s if the right watch came along. I’m not looking to collect. Rather want to own and enjoy a vintage Omega chronograph. Any advice as to where to look would be most welcome. Perhaps just a case of constantly looking online, and waiting for the perfect piece?!
 
Larry S
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53,498
Alex H Alex H
Many thanks Peemacgee. I wasn’t aware of that fact about the pushers. My challenge at the moment is where to look? The web is awash with online dealers and, to be honest, some of the gold chronographs are looking over restored. I don’t mind some patina and I would prefer a watch with an original face. I’ll heed the advice, and exercise a little patience. And try to educate myself with the basics and what to look out for. My preference is for 1940’s/ 50’s timepieces. But would equally consider early 60’s if the right watch came along. I’m not looking to collect. Rather want to own and enjoy a vintage Omega chronograph. Any advice as to where to look would be most welcome. Perhaps just a case of constantly looking online, and waiting for the perfect piece?!
Best and safest place to buy a watch is here on Omega Forums. OF is also the best source of expertise and a solid data base of reference materials.
 
MDubs
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Larry S Larry S
Best and safest place to buy a watch is here on Omega Forums. OF is also the best source of expertise and a solid data base of reference materials.
Word.
 
Peemacgee
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You can also try auction houses with specialist watch sales - that is where I found my 2872.
Watches of Knightsbridge if I recall correctly.

But I also think you need to try and decide which specific reference ( or references - but try to limit the types)) you are looking for and research those as best you can.

You can then set up alerts through the likes of watchrecon.
 
Alex H
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Peemacgee Peemacgee
You can also try auction houses with specialist watch sales - that is where I found my 2872.
Watches of Knightsbridge if I recall correctly.

But I also think you need to try and decide which specific reference ( or references - but try to limit the types)) you are looking for and research those as best you can.

You can then set up alerts through the likes of watchrecon.
Many thanks Peemacgee. I’m quite specific about the type of vintage Omega chronograph I’m looking for. Preferably 1950’s, 18ct yellow gold. 321 Caliber, but 320 is an option? I need to educate myself regarding model references. I’ll take a look at Watches of Knightsbridge. Is it acceptable to post a ‘wanted’ thread on this forum? I had a look through the ‘watches for sale’ threads, but couldn’t see anything recently for Omega chronographs.
 
Peemacgee
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The 2872/ cal 320 was just an example of how some good dials do survive with these pushers. ( but you might notice that the subdial hands have suffered somewhat.

I’m afraid that you need 200 posts to post a WTB request.

There are other UK auction houses that have specialist watch sales in addition to WoK.
Setting up alerts is the best way to be kept informed - but you will need to reduce the traffic by learning the specific references - as 321 will produce a myriad of hits.
 
Peemacgee
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The other thing I should have mentioned earlier, is that these are not large watches.

They are no bigger than the dress watches of the time and nothing like today's modern chronographs.
If you are not used to the size of vintage watches - which we look at in large scale on a computer and it is always a surprise when you buy your first - then you may find them more than a little small.

These chronographs are only around 35mm diameter - with the pushers and larger crown making them look a little larger than a dress watch which only has the crown.

It's often mooted that if these 50/60s Omega chronographs were just a few millimetres larger they would be worth multiples of their collectors' current value.
 
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