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16k Euro for a new UG. Are you buying one?

Verdi
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Monochrome watches published an ample interview with the CEO of Breitling 2 days ago. It was all about UG.
Here is the link for those who want to read it:
https://monochrome-watches.com/what...n-2026-georges-kern-gives-us-all-the-answers/

Now, the key information in this article is the reference about the pricing. Starting point……..15k CHF which is the equivalent to 16k Euro! That is for a steel, basic model, I am guessing a Polerouter.
So, the cheapest UG is going to cost more than double the price of an entry level Rolex OP36 (6400 E at the moment).

I was personally shocked about the market positioning that Breitling is aiming for UG. Price wise they are in Vacheron, AP, Lange territory and knocking on the door of Patek house.
I am just wondering who is going to say: “I am not going to get a brand new Vacheron for 12.5k E just now because I really want a new steel Polerouter for 16k E” or maybe splash 25k for a solid gold one.
I would personally buy a pre-owned Calatrava for that price tag. You can get a full set, modern one for that price.
Well, that is just my view. And I was curious to see what other WIS think of this. I asked the question on my modest IG account. Its only 2200 followers but all of us are watch nerds who are aware of UG. So, potential customers.
Well, here is the result of the poll:
IMG_6616.webp


What do you guys think!? Did Breitling get it wrong or they going to establish UG as the new high-end watch brand on the par with Vacheron, Patek, JLC and Lange? Is that even possible?
Imo, the UG should start at 5-6k E and slowly increase the price over the years…as the brand is getting established as a competitor to Omega, JLC, and eventually Vacheron, Lange etc.
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dsio
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If they position it in the 5-6k range it competes directly with Breitling anyway which does them more harm than good.

It really has to be in this price category and try to do a good enough job to bring buyers of Nina Rindts, Space Compaxes etc at auction over to the brand’s new watches.

The thing that brought most people into vintage Universal Geneve was the impressive quality and unique movements in extremely affordable watches though so it’ll be a matter of can the marketing team being fans with them as they move that high end.
 
Verdi
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You are right on that aspect, the CEO said that UG cannot compete with Breitling.
But lets be honest. How many of you here, UG fans, are also into Breitlings?
I do not think that the UG fans fit the profile of the Breitling buyer. The modern Breitlings are big watches with busy dials, bling, chunky on the wrist, colourful….that’s pretty far away from the UG’s classic elegance and Genta’s DNA.

I think that starting at 5-6k E with a steel Polerouter would be a great way of getting more people into the brand.
You can charge a lot more for complications but at the end of the day whoever loves the vintage Polerouters and bought one for 1-2-4k usd in the past…….is no longer a UG customer for the new steel 16k E Polerouter.
I am certainly not paying that much for a steel UG. I can get 2-3-4 amazing vintage pieces with that money. (even solid gold ones).
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cristos71
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Crazy if you ask me as with the re-launch of a defunkt brand the first target market can surely only be vintage UG collectors as everybody else on the watch buying planet has neither heard of UG nor cares that they are being brand re-born after 50 years.

There's a reason that PP, V&C, etc can charge big bucks for a watch and it is not only build quality. Their fine standing in the market with reputations built up over decades and decades of production counts for a lot....and let's not forget the value of wrist snobbery with buyers of these top tier brands. for some only the best will do....and will a $17K time only steel UG be that when it comes down to the final choice between two 5 figure watches?
 
Larry S
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These are certainly not to be considered representative of any pricing policy or go to market strategy.. Made for an event with rebuilt movements. I sure hope he’s floating a trial balloon here ….
 
YY77
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Larry S Larry S
I sure hope he’s floating a trial balloon here ….

I don't think so, quoting Kern from the Monochrome article:

Talking about price points…? As a range, are we talking CHF 10,000, CHF 100,000? We will start most likely around CHF 15,000 for a non-complicated steel watch, with an increase for gold models, complications or métiers d’art.
 
Evitzee
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Reminds me when Minerva was repositioned some 20 years ago. Minerva was a darling of the TZ crowd for years, but when it was sold and rejiggered the price point was over CHF 20, 000, it didn't end well for the Minerva fan base.
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Dan S
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If it's an LE, they might be able to sell a small number to get started, maybe there are enough enthusiasts to sell out. But 16k for an ordinary SS production model seems high. UG has an excellent history, but it's fairly obscure outside of specialist collector circles, and I don't see why they would imagine it would debut at that level of prestige. Who do they imagine they are competing with?
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theluckyluke
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I was getting excited with the relaunch, but it's fair to that the price tag crushed my hopes.

How many can they realistically manufacture a year? There is surely a big limitation there no?
 
abrod520
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Evitzee Evitzee
Reminds me when Minerva was repositioned some years ago. Minerva was a darling of the TZ crowd for years, but when it was sold and rejiggered the price point was over CHF 20, 000, it didn't work well.

The current Minervas are absolutely excellent watches, the problem is Montblanc decided they would put their name on the watches instead and they just don't have cachet enough for $30k+ watches.
 
Larry S
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theluckyluke theluckyluke
I was getting excited with the relaunch, but it's fair to that the price tag crushed my hopes.

How many can they realistically manufacture a year? There is surely a big limitation there no?
Plans can change. Dumb interviews can be walked back. Keeping powder dry.
 
Evitzee
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abrod520 abrod520
The current Minervas are absolutely excellent watches, the problem is Montblanc decided they would put their name on the watches instead and they just don't have cachet enough for $30k+ watches.
True, but nobody is going to pay $40,000 for a Minerva branded watch either. They are beautiful movements but it shows how difficult it is to move a brand up the luxury chain. UG is going to face that same problem, imo.
 
paulmiami
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The strategy seems far fetched to me. I was at Macy’s yesterday doing some returns for my wife …. Walked through their jewelry counters and was surprised to see used Rolex for sale. But more relevant to this topic is that they had 100s of handsome looking watches that most people would find hard to differentiate versus a UG Polerouter. At double the price of a Rolex 36mm Datejust, and similarly priced to VC, I just don’t see it working.
 
Mark020
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He is I think
 
jumpingsecond
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Not sure yet. Will have to see the watch.

It's definitely lofty but I get the thinking behind it. They already have Breitling and want to compete in a higher priced tier. I can see them following a model like Breguet - Classy / beautiful / distinctive watches that fit a niche clientele if they do it right..
 
paulmiami
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Copied from the Breguet website.

More than a promise, Breguet's customer service is a pledge to offer its customers an experience that matches the quality of its watches since 1775. Whether it's for repairs, maintenance or any other request related to its products, a team of specialists is on hand to guarantee complete satisfaction.

UG is far short on this …. These super premium brands have been supporting their customers literally for centuries. Surpassing Rolex by a wide margin on servicing vintage watches.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m rooting for UG, but I need to be objective also.

If I were in charge at UG, which I’m not, I’d start by quietly buying 50 or so vintage pieces, refurbish them, and sell them back into the market. This would tie maybe $1,000,000 of capital, but likely would be break even at worst. Buy the watches for $15,000 on average, spend $5,000 at their cost per watch to refurbish them impeccably, reselling them for $25,000 or more in a luxury UG packaging with a 3 year warranty.
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Mark020
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Which vintage UG’s will you be buying? Only ones I can think of is Claptons and the like
 
Dan S
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paulmiami paulmiami
If I were in charge at UG, which I’m not, I’d start by quietly buying 50 or so vintage pieces, refurbish them, and sell them back into the market.
Or better yet, play the Omega game. Put them into high-end auctions and bid them up with shills.
 
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