Hi (first post),
I recently purchased the Constellation pictured from a local watch store which sells quite a few vintage watches, is [EDIT: NOT] an Omega AD and has a watch smith for servicing. I did not do enough research before the purchase, did not look at the movement and was told the watch should be serviced.

I realise (now) this is a popular version for counterfeiters. Now that I own the watch I checked all the items to look for and I am confident this is legit (please be gentle if I am wrong).

Again, I screwed up when I left the watch for servicing and gave no guidance what I wanted done. The watch smith replaced the hands, crystal and crown (I still have the originals) with authentic Omega parts. I was upset that the crown was replaced as the replacement was not the correct style. The watch smith stated that Omega doesn't manufacture the original crown anymore and the crown should be replaced to maintain water resistance. He then offered to return the original crown. Even though I don't ever plan to get the watch wet I decided to leave the new crown as I don't want to ruin the movement from moisture entering through the crown. Besides, I have the original which can always be restored. I'm still conflicted as I really liked the unique look of the original crown. Which crown would you have left installed?

The bigger issue is the watch smith stated my watch has the 551 calibre movement (which is correct) but one piece is marked 556; I don't know which part. He stated that with these old watches sometimes spares are used from other movements if replacements can't be found. The watch runs great but I'm thinking of spending money next time it needs servicing to get the correct part restored (if possible). What would you do? How much does it devalue the watch having a part from another calibre?

 

lovely looking watch -congratulations on your new Constellation and welcome to the forum

the 'do you don't you' debate about crowns will run for as long as folks collect vintage watches

it's better for the watch to replace it but looks better and more original if you don't
-you have the original so if you wanted to sell you have best of both worlds

what Gartocpa means is that there is no cal 556
-so a mis-read by your watch maker

but it is known that pieces from non-chronometer movements from the same series have been used in the past during services instead of the correct piece.
-yes it reduces the value for collectors who like originality (but I'm not sure by how much)

finding a replacement 'correct' piece might be a bit difficult -it would probably mean you buying a donor watch/movement and cannibalising it

read Desmond's excellent essays on movements (and all other things Constellation)

http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.co.uk

 

I'm guessing its got the bridge from a 565 in it...

 

Desmond has a great site. I was using his material to check the dial and case which gave me confidence the watch was OK but I am going through a rollercoaster of opinions the more I investigate this. I opened the case back and added some pictures. I was reluctant before as I don't have proper tools and didn't want to scratch the case but Blu-Tack works great.

I was wrong in my earlier post, from the pictures you can see calibre 565 is shown (on the train bridge?). I blurred the serial # in the 34mil range.

I was reading this post which again gave me hope and concern.
http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.fi/2007/03/omega-constellation-calibres.html

It is stated that 33mil serial # would be from around 1971 so mine would be later but I understood the case back 14900 would indicate the watch is from the 60s. Someone in the discussion also say they have a certificate from Omega that their 565 is authentic.

There also comments in a few places that if the rotor bridge says it's adjusted then probably the train bridge with the cal number has been substituted.

My best guess which seems far fetched:
* the watch started from the 60s with a 551 calibre and 14900 case back
* at some point in the 70s the 551 movement was swapped for 565 thus 34mil serial #
* later, for some reason the rotor bridge was swapped from 565

Alternative guess: someone pieced together a frankenwatch and I didn't do needed research before buying

What would be the reason to swap a rotor bridge?

 

Rotor bridge is not swapped. It's the train bridge with both the calibre and serial numbers on it that's been swapped. Reason seems weird and dubious, since the rest of the movement looks in good condition while the wrong bridge is worse.

The 551 is less common so finding a replacement is not easy or cheap, and when you've found one, it's still never gonna have the original serial number. Is it possible to return it?

 

Thanks for the clarification on the train vs. rotor bridges. I will try to return it (maybe even for store credit). I just checked the original listing (http://www.kalevankello.fi/tuote/omega-231-rk/) which shows the 565 calibre.

 

Well -because of the listing -you have a good excuse to return the watch as there is no such thing as a Constellation Chronometer with a cal 565 movement
the 565 wasn't chronometer rated

 

The watch should have a non date cal 551 Chronometer and actually has a mongrel non date 551/565 bodge job. The 565 was a non chronometer with a date.

Return!

 

Looks like a watch from China or Viet Nam

 

Does he have "watch smithing" tools like these?

Sorry, I just couldn't help myself.

 

Counterfeit case and dial and re-engraved rotor bridge.

Look at the difference in the depth and font of the engraving of the original jewel count engraving vs the ADDED adjustments engraving. I actually purchased one of these years ago, its a lot of work to make a fake. They had actually re-engraved the caliber on the one I purchased as well.

Return it.

 

Terrific spot. This is a hell of fake though and I wonder what gave the dial away?

To the OP, this is very disheartening and I hope you get your money returned. Here is a close up of my 63 Constellation, not exactly the same as yours but, does yours have the flat tops on the I, for example? I also wonder if the way your G and A in OMEGA are joined are a giveaway as mine has a wider leg to join them. Just building knowledge here.

Apologies for the poor lighting but there is no natural light left here.

Good luck, Chris

 

Good eyes, Hoi and Norm! I never thought an AD would sell a fake...

 

The first t in Constellation and the star would do that. The case's bevels are wrong also, along with the case back's engravings which gave me pause for a second or so, but I really never heard of a fake from an AD...

 

I mis-spoke, the store is not an Omega AD. I'm not sure how I came to that wrong conclusion.

Thanks for everyone's help. I think I have amassed enough to ask for my money back. I will let you know.

Below is also a close-up of the text which shows no fluting of the letters.

I'm not sure if this is definitive but I noticed that the grey gears are shinny and possibly have linear grain (hard to get good pictures without a macro lens) but when I search for pictures of the 551, 565 movements they all have radial grain on these gears.

 

As TNT says above, the T in Constellation is also clearly wrong. I just looked at a couple of mine and it is obvious (now I know...).

Good luck, Chris.

 

I took a closer look, here is a better picture showing it is not right.