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1171/633 time! Please assist my filing adventure!

  1. Super Fuzz Jan 22, 2019

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    In the YouTube-era spirit of do-it-yourself authenticity, I’d like to seek out the guidance of the resident experts and professors of horological lore in the challenge before me.


    Despite several posts here and elsewhere lamenting the apparent questionable quality of the 1171/1 modern “reissue” bracelet, I’ve opted for aesthetics over all else and ordered one of these direct from Omega (at a damn reasonable $420, unless it arrives and I realize it’s worth $20? Jk) for my 2018 Speedy Pro.


    So, those darn 633 end links. I understand there is likely to be a fitment issue that will require some slight filing of the edges to make things lie nicely. I already undertook the fool’s errand of calling my local Omega Boutique just to see if they’d help me out, and, as you can imagine, the conversation was comical and the lack of knowledge on their end of all these things utterly (and predictably) disappointing. They’re there to sell new watches after all.


    Well we come to it at last. The point of this needlessly verbose post: can I do this myself and what sort of filing tool will get it done?


    Please and thank you!
     
  2. D.D. Jan 22, 2019

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    Since it's ordered from Omega, I would suggest to have the Boutique to fit the bracelet for you.
     
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  3. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 22, 2019

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    ::facepalm1::

    Yes, you can do this yourself. The ideal filing tool is a file. Just go slow and check the fit often.

    Cheers, Al
     
  4. wsfarrell Jan 22, 2019

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    More specifically, I'd recommend a set of needle files, like this:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Needle-Fil...=item33ff7b0840:g:r2IAAOSwm5xcQFyV:rk:82:pf:0Purchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network
    There are thousands of these on eBay; I just linked to a fairly random one. You want metal files with teeth, not diamond files. The trickier part, for me anyway, is holding the endlink while you file. I usually wrap it in a thin piece of hard rubber and (carefully) put it in a small vise.
     
  5. Foo2rama Keeps his worms in a ball instead of a can. Jan 22, 2019

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    My OB did it no problem. CM in SoCal.
     
  6. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 22, 2019

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    When filing a surface, it’s recommended that you use a file as wide as the surface you are filing. In this case when filing the side of the lug, using a file that contacts the whole side at once would be better than a narrow file that will more easily allow the side to go wandering as you file, and create an uneven surface.

    In other words needle files would be my last choice for this job. They certainly have their place, but IMO this is not it.
     
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  7. JimInOz Melbourne Australia Jan 22, 2019

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    Tools you need for the task are:

    a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth on the edge face).
    a vice to hold the work
    a support to hold the piece (coffee stirrer, popsicle stick, I use a bamboo skewer)
    vernier callipers to measure the work.

    ToolsForLink.JPG

    Use the stick to hold your link, you can tape it if it needs it, I just hold the link to the stick.

    ViceLinks.JPG

    Use the file, keeping as level as possible and with the safe edge towards the horn so you don't remove any of that part.

    Filing.JPG

    Figure out how much you need to remove from each side and check often, do not file too much without checking!

    Good luck with it.
     
  8. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 22, 2019

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    I just hold the end link in my fingers, but then again I do this quite often compared to the rest of you guys I suspect...
     
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  9. Super Fuzz Jan 23, 2019

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    My dudes! I really appreciate the thoughtful responses here. On the hunt now for a nice flat file that will be large enough as in JimInOz’s photo above.

    @Archer if I manage to do it bare-fingered maybe I should quit my day job? ::rimshot::
     
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  10. DotOverNine Jan 23, 2019

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    This reminds me of my own filing project some years ago...

    This was when fitting a 1171/633 from 2004 onto my 105.012

    As you can see of the bottom picture, i managed to damage the first part of the bracelet a little =/



    filing1.JPG filing2.JPG filing3.JPG filing4.JPG
     
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  11. Super Fuzz Jan 23, 2019

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    Coincidentally: should I still use the same spring bars used for the modern bracelets - meaning the shorter length bars? Or do I need the longer ones used for leather straps?

    @DotOverNine what length spring bars did you use in that example?
     
    Edited Jan 23, 2019
  12. DotOverNine Jan 23, 2019

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    I’m sorry can’t remember. I had a bunch of spring bars to choose from
     
  13. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 23, 2019

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    Use the spring bars from the bracelet. You don’t want to use the strap bars...
     
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  14. bikehomero Jan 23, 2019

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    Let me ask: what is the difference in this bars?
     
  15. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 23, 2019

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    Strap bars are longer, and will be difficult to remove.
     
  16. Folgono Jan 23, 2019

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    Really interested in the difference between these springbars too. Is it unsafe ?
     
  17. Foo2rama Keeps his worms in a ball instead of a can. Jan 23, 2019

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    Strap bars have less give which means safer on strap, hard to remove and attach with a bracelet.
     
  18. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 23, 2019

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    They have the same amount of “give” (compression of the end parts), but are just longer.
     
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  19. Super Fuzz Jan 23, 2019

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    Thanks again for all the input here.

    I guess I have to ask, because, well, who doesn’t love a can of worms?! Is the reissue 1171/1 bracelet really that bad in terms of quality? Meaning, is it really more likely to bust open from average wear?
     
  20. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 23, 2019

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    ^^^ no