10k solid gold Hamilton assessment help needed

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Late 60’s - early 70s Hamilton manual wind, solid 10k gold, 33mm. Presentation watch beautifully done. No inside pics and won’t be able to get any before auction ends later today. Dial not marked Swiss, but case, crown, and back signed. I’m thinking $500.00 top end on this one, but I need the expertise of the experts here. Any glaring deficiencies? Advice you’d have me consider? (I said I want buying anymore this year…)
 
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Three things that would put me off.
First, the size. I have skinny wrists and can take 34mm but 33mm would be too small for me aesthetically in this day and age.
Second, 10k gold doesn’t fill me with excitement. 18k is the minimum I’d be looking for.
Third, personally I would prefer an automatic movement to a manual.
And, on top of those reasons, I would think $200 tops, if I really wanted it but, I’m pretty sure I’d keep looking.
For $500, I’d go for an automatic Seamaster de ville
 
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Three things that would put me off.
First, the size. I have skinny wrists and can take 34mm but 33mm would be too small for me aesthetically in this day and age.
Second, 10k gold doesn’t fill me with excitement. 18k is the minimum I’d be looking for.
Third, personally I would prefer an automatic movement to a manual.
And, on top of those reasons, I would think $200 tops, if I really wanted it but, I’m pretty sure I’d keep looking.
For $500, I’d go for an automatic Seamaster de ville

I bought a 10 karat Hamilton several years ago. I figured, base on the weight of the gold case without the movement, strap, or crystal, the scrap gold value was about $250.
 
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I bought a 10 karat Hamilton several years ago. I figured, base on the weight of the gold case without the movement, strap, or crystal, the scrap gold value was about $250.
Yes, I’m sure but I’m a watch collector not a bullion dealer and I understood that the initial poster was asking about the watch rather than the potential gold value of the case
 
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Yes, I’m sure but I’m a watch collector not a bullion dealer and I understood that the initial poster was asking about the watch rather than the potential gold value of the case

Yes, but! You suggested a purchase price of $200 TOPS. That is LESS than what I estimated the scrap value was. So what’s yer point?
 
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Yes, but! You suggested a purchase price of $200 TOPS. That is LESS than what I estimated the scrap value was. So what’s yer point?

Well, if the scrap value is relevant to the OP, he can factor your estimate in but I understood that he was considering a working watch that he wanted to buy to wear so, if I’m reading this right, the scrap value of the case is irrelevant, isn’t it?
 
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Well, if the scrap value is relevant to the OP, he can factor your estimate in but I understood that he was considering a working watch that he wanted to buy to wear so, if I’m reading this right, the scrap value of the case is irrelevant, isn’t it?

You’ve missed the point all together. Why should the seller sell anything for LESS than the scrap value. You suggested $200 TOPS. I’m saying $250 MINIMUM!
 
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And, if I’m right, whilst you are an experienced watchmaker, and probably have contacts who are jewellers to whom you could sell scrap gold at a proper value, the OP may be in my position as to having no idea how to dispose of scrap gold and whether or not the price being offered for a scrap case is fair or unfair.

I really wouldn’t want to buy on that basis and carry the risk
 
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And, if I’m right, whilst you are an experienced watchmaker, and probably have contacts who are jewellers to whom you could sell scrap gold at a proper value, the OP may be in my position as to having no idea how to dispose of scrap gold and whether or not the price being offered for a scrap case is fair or unfair.

I really wouldn’t want to buy on that basis and carry the risk

There are none so deaf as those who refuse to hear. He wants to buy a running watch, and you are the one who suggests he low ball his offer, and buy it for less than scrap! Duh!
 
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Why are you being so aggressive?
 
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Didn’t mean to cause a stir. Watch is sitting at $262 on a non-Bay auction site with a few hours left. I’ve set my parameters lower on the top end price. There is also a 70’s model Seiko Turtle model 6309-7049 that I’m watching. It is in pristine condition…it is sitting at $398 with about a couple of days left. Probably a much better watch to buy anyway (and I may buy both). Thanks for the input and advice from all.
Edited:
 
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Any stir was absolutely not your fault or a consequence of anything you said or did.

Good luck with whichever one you decide on
 
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I like the Hammy @CBM1590. Ultimately, you need to decide what it is worth to you. Of course you don't want to overpay, I think $450 - $500 is a reasonable stopping point. I like small hand-winders. It is thin and will be a dream to wear. It is a bit small at 33mm, but I have a 34mm Maxbill Handwind and it looks bigger because of the thin bezel. It is all dial, this watch also has a pretty thin bezel which will help with the appearance of size. The inscription is quite well done and Ford Motor company is a nice one, better than some random company nobody ever heard of. I would not be turned off by 10k gold, to me it is better for regular wear than the softer 18k gold. Good luck on the auctions.
 
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Apples and oranges I suppose. But I sold this 14K Hamilton in March 2021 for $450 with box.

They are nice watches and not everyone likes the case back engravings, but I really do. It shows evidence of a past life. This did not answer your questions but others already did anyway.
 
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And, if I’m right, whilst you are an experienced watchmaker, and probably have contacts who are jewellers to whom you could sell scrap gold at a proper value, the OP may be in my position as to having no idea how to dispose of scrap gold and whether or not the price being offered for a scrap case is fair or unfair.

I really wouldn’t want to buy on that basis and carry the risk


It is sometimes helpful if the seller AND the buyer have an IDEA of what scrap value might be. This establishes a FLOOR price which neither the buyer OR the seller might reasonably expect the agreed price to be beneath. I bought the Hamilton I referred to for scrap value because it is a Hamilton (Buren) micro rotor (obsolete), with a bunch of broken and damaged parts. Scrap is all it was worth. Me aggressive! Assertive, maybe, but not aggressive.
 
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For what it's worth, I think the inscription is pretty cool with the Henry Ford II signature. There might be a story there especially since it was an odd anniversary. Maybe some Ford guy would appreciate it.
 
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It is sometimes helpful if the seller AND the buyer have an IDEA of what scrap value might be. This establishes a FLOOR price which neither the buyer OR the seller might reasonably expect the agreed price to be beneath. I bought the Hamilton I referred to for scrap value because it is a Hamilton (Buren) micro rotor (obsolete), with a bunch of broken and damaged parts. Scrap is all it was worth. Me aggressive! Assertive, maybe, but not aggressive.

Sound reasoning; scrap value for the case and some extra for ebaying the movement and good parts should be a base value. Go up from there for running and interest/desirability.
 
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The case is sharp, Hamilton made excellent watches (even if it is a later Swiss made movement), 10k makes a good durable gold case. I would go up to somewhere between $400-$500.