Hello all,

I am a first time poster but have used the information I learned here to buy my first vintage watch, a Universal Geneve polerouter.

I am a college student, thus money is a HUGE factor to what watches I can get. The first watch I got was a Seiko 5, which I happen to think is an INCREDIBLE buy from a company with real history and respect.

I waited a year after that and made sure I only got pieces that while relatively inexpensive, are still worthwhile in the world of watches. My first "real" watch was a 42mm Hamilton Khaki Field that I bought used. I really had to put this one on a NATO strap given it's lineage as a true field watch. It also comes with the basically chronometer grade ETA 2824-2 movement that is arguably made in house (ETA and Hamilton both under the Swatch group). For these reasons, I also think this is a great watch that you can pick up in the used market for around $300.



So, with two good watch collector's watches (again for your average college student) I wanted to get away from the NATO style field watch and go another direction. I wanted to add some sort of tool/dive watch on a steel bracelet (ideally a chono). The problem is, there aren't any "real" chronos out there that are relatively affordable. This is about the time that my daily visits to Hodinkee persuaded me into the world of vintage watches.

At first, I thought a vintage Seiko Chronograph would be perfect. It ties back perfectly with my argument for the modern Seiko 5. I mean how can you argue with a vintage chrono from a truly great company that also looks pretty cool (I wanted one with the Pogue dial). I guess I ended up not going with this option mainly because I didn't want to end up with a roll full of Seikos, or any one brand for that matter. However, I still think this is a fantastic option and will probably end up bidding on more of these in the future (probably near future).

Next, I though the Tudor Prince would be the perfect watch for me. You're getting a watch with a signed Rolex crown, Rolex case, Rolex bracelet, without having to be "that guy" with a Rolex at school (if you think the regular world doesn't understand watches, students are even worse). I watched several go up for auction on ebay but realized I would be paying almost $1000 for a good example. Unfortunately, it was too good to be true.

After that, I really got into Omega. I almost realized my "chronograph" dream with the Omega Chronostop. I LOVE this watch. It was originally marketed towards people around my age because it isn't really a chronograph but just a 60 second timer. Nevertheless, it is still super cool and unique which is what in my opinion defines a good watch. However, I would again be in the $800-$1000 range for one of these and I am also unsure about servicing a vintage movement, let alone a chrono. So like the Prince, I am avoiding this watch but just for the time being.

As a sidenote, my dream sports chrono is a cal.861 Omega Speedmaster Man on the Moon. It's story cant be beaten, its gorgeous, and it is definitely undervalued (something vintage Daytona can't say). Additionally with the way Omega is growing now, it's old pieces will only be more sought after. Just look at the change in price for their divers already.

So back to the story. Realizing that anything vintage on a steel bracelet is going to be quite pricey I decided to shift my focus entirely toward getting a good vintage dress watch. I figured this would be good because they are much cheaper and it would keep me from wearing it every day which would reduce my nightmare of having to take one of these awesome watches in to get serviced within the next 5-10 years (if that length of time just made you cringe, it makes me cringe too trust me).

I revisited Omega for their dress watches and really loved them, specifically the Seamasters. I love the old bumper movements and read a lot about the Seamaster 30's. They are a beautiful watch and I found many I really liked. Around this same time, I started looking at the Universal Geneve Polerouter (I came across these two mainly from a great Hodinkee article about inexpensive vintage. I did my research on both and watched many Omegas and UGs on ebay (after first doing my homework on them) for months to get a feel for their price.

About a week ago, I found what would eventually be my first vintage watch. I decided to bid on a Polerouter from the late 1950s. There are several reasons that I love the Polerouter.

1) It has a cool story about being designed for the Scandenaviean Airlines System to be very anti-magnetic to maintain accurate timekeeping for pilots flying a new route over the North pole.

2) As I hinted earlier, I love the more low key watches that are invisible to anyone that doesn't know the story behind them. Universal Geneve is the perfect company for these types of watches because they have a rich history but are pretty weak now so non-watch lovers don't really know the difference. (This was a win for UG over Omega by the way)

3) Gerald Genta..... I LOVE the Nautillus. I think the new 5990 is one of the coolest watches of all time, seriously. So it think its really cool that this watch was not only designed by the same guy who first desingend the Neutilus, Gerald Genta, but that the Polerouter was his FIRST design (He also designed the original Royal Oak which I love).

4) The watch cost me $300.

5) No seriously, I only paid $300.


So here it is:


This watch uses the original 138SS bumper movement (the SS means that it uses a central hand) which puts it in the earliest generation.

the pictures may make the case look like steel but it is actually plated gold. I think the watch is in great condition and it doesn't look to me like the dial has been restored and the hands look original. My only slight concern is that the crown isn't signed, but I don't think all of the Polerouters had signed crowns. Also, the glass has a crack on it at about 2:30 which I will eventually get fixed.

So I want to know what you think about my journey as a young watch collector. It's been pretty hard to find worthwhile watches with my budget, but I think I have managed to look at watches that have real significance and are very undervalued.

ALSO, there is no serial number on the case back? Though I think my Polerouter was made from 1955-56 because of its movement, I would still like to know the exact serial number. Just a side note.

THANKS for taking the time to read my first post and also my journey as a collector! Have a good day!

 

By the way, I am trying to figure out what color strap would look the best, black or brown?

 

Great start, some great buys, commendable restraint and watches I'd be proud to own. The one thing I would say is that unless you know that polerouter has been serviced you should have it done asap, certainly not wait years... invest another $150 to make sure that you aren't doing irreparable damage to your latest acquisition.

In terms of strap, I think both colours work - black and shiny is more dressy (gator, lizard), brown is more casual (gator, lizard, calf), brown and matt more casual still (ostrich etc..)

 

Welcome to the forum!

Actually, your SEIKO is one of the collest SEIKO I´ve seen!

As for the UG, it has seen better days.

Keep up the good work, and I would love to be around so see what you have achieved in say 10 years of collecting!

 

Hi avl, welcome - a great introduction and cool watches - I share your view on the UG - a lovely watch to have, but as you have already been more wisely and better counselled - have it checked over asap - meet you in a thread sometime

 

Welcome! Nice work so far, thoughtful and patient.

 

Welcome to the forum. Stop drinking Starbucks and your watch fund will grow exponentially Regards, Bill

 

Thanks for your replies!! Mothra and Fretworker, you are right, thanks for the advice! I will take it in to get serviced soon. Is there any way to tell if the watch has been serviced other than the markings on the caseback?

 

Tbh, if I was in any doubt (and if it wasn't bought from a forum member I know from here I usually assume they are fibbing about any claimed service) I ask a trusted watchmaker to tell me if it needs one. You might need to find a trusted watchmaker first of course.... others have mystic methods that are beyond my abilities.

 

Awesome start! You have two pieces that are in my avatar!! The seiko is a phenomenal buy for the price IMO. A great starting watch. And the hamilton is a wonderful military style watch. I love both of mine, and they look great on different straps!

 

If I'd started off in college with this addiction I'd likely be living in the back of an engineless Chevrolet on blocks now.

Welcome to the hobby and the forum.......

and a great way to stay poor forever!

Love your Seiko!