Hello,

I am seriously considering buying a vintage 1960's chronograph, Cal 321. But before purchasing, I would like to get to know a few watchmakers and have some idea on service cost. Other than Archer, who I know is fantastic and completely overbooked at the moment, can you recommend other watch makers on this Forum? Those familiar with Chicago, are there watchmakers you'd recommend?

Many thanks in advance

 

Thank you dsio,

I pushed forward with a deal, and I am really looking forward to getting it! If you have any general advice on how to care for vintage watches (omegas), that would be much appreciated. This is my very first vintage purchase.

 

More than becoming difficult - it is difficult for certain parts. While the labour cost of servicing a 321 and 861 is the same, the overall cost can be higher if parts are needed, because if the part you need is discontinued, you have to rely on the open market. On the open market, people who have rare parts usually know that fact, and they charge accordingly.

I have paid what seem like stupid prices for parts that are needed, based on the complexity of the actual part - it's the scarcity of parts that makes them valuable.

Cheers, Al

 

Al,
What will be the effect of Omega restricting who it sells spare parts too (comes into effect next year?) - will that cut of parts supply to non-Omega authorised service centres such as yourself?

 

Not that I am aware of, just the parts houses/resellers.

 

Phew......that's a relief

 

Not exactly a relief since it'd make it impossible to obtain parts from an independent source and eliminate all non-Omega-aproved watchmakers from repairing Omega watches. There are not many Al's around, especially local or more available to an Omega enthusiast.

 

Let's hoist this one up the flagpole again. Pcdubc -- gimme a hand.

Can anyone recommend a reliable vintage watchmaker other than Archer (the Forum's favorite and most helpful who's too busy to receive work)?

The Forum member who can recommend a watchmaker located in the Midwest USA would be a hero to those of us in these parts.

 

So the only guy that seems to have consistently positive review is Kent at Fine Swiss Watch Repair. Anyone else?

 

Consider what happens to your Ω321 if you send it in to Omega for service!!

http://omegaforums.net/threads/omeg...-65-back-from-bienne.17322/page-2#post-191185

 

Yea....that sorta looks like plastic surgery
Can you not ask omega to not touch the case and the dial?

 

In theory yes. I did read one report where a UK watch owner managed to get a sympathetic service done by Omega, but it did involve a lot of legwork. I was told by the Omega dealer here in Vancouver that it my watch was returned to Bienne for service then they could not guarantee that polishing and gratuitous parts replacement would not occur.

 

Not exactly a problem here since the original parts have been returned for this watch. The problem is you're gonna be forced to have your Omega watch, vintage or not, serviced by whom Omega allows to do it, not by one of your choice. Same for getting just the parts.

 

So I will be trying out Kent at Fine Swiss Watch Repair early next week. Once serviced, I will report back my experience

Cheers

 

Hi Al,

do not forget the fact that the scarcity of parts leads one to change only those that are absolutely needed.
Working at Omega we used to change every slightly defective part. You just had to open the correct drawer and pick what you needed.
Now you are forced to keep a reasonable, but less than perfect, escapement wheel or a pallet fork or a main plate slightly ovalised at the barrell and so on. The result is a running watch which is, however, often well below its original standard.
This has led me, over time, to cease overhauling most watches that appear beaten up beyond any reasonable hope.

Cheers,
Maurice

 

I have sent watches away to Bienne for service on behalf of my clients who wanted this done. The parts that were returned (including hands) were simply tossed in a plastic bag with all the other parts they replaced, so along with a greasy mainspring, various movement parts, old seals, pushers, crowns, etc. No regard whatsoever for the fact that delicate parts like hands or dials could be damaged by this treatment - the risk is certainly not zero.

Second, you send the watch away, get it serviced, and it comes back with a warranty on that service. Now you have to pay someone else to put the old parts back on, and that of course voids the warranty on the service.

So in my view, parts being returned is far from being not a problem on these watches.

Cheers, Al

 

You're right, Al. I oversimplified that issue, but it still depends on the condition of the original parts. If they were total beat-ups then it wouldn't matter much and replacements would actually increase the watch's value. If there's still some value in those original parts then the main problem gets worse - one can only go to Omega approved watchmakers like yourself to have a sympathetic service for the watch. No more independents but no Omega either. More power to you.

Regards,
Tony

 

I just want to clarify something. I am not picking on you Tony but I see this same thing posted all over the internet and quite frankly it's starting to bug me just a bit. I'm just replying to you here as you are the most recent post I've seen with this.

I am and always will be an independent watchmaker.

I do not work for Omega. I don't perform warranty repairs for them. I don't conform to their pricing structure, or anything of the sort. I am completely independent from Omega - the day to day difference is that I simply buy parts directly from them instead of from a 3rd party distributor.

There will still be independent watchmakers who will service Omegas, because I am one.

The difference between me and an independent who buys parts from a 3rd party material supplier is that I have jumped through the Omega hoops to get an account - something these other independents can do any time they wish. If they meet Omega's requirements for education, experience, have shop equipment that Omega approve of, have their shop inspected, and go to the Omega training, they can have an account as well.

Don't get me wrong here - I fully support the free distribution of parts to anyone who wants to buy them, but unfortunately that is not currently how the watch world works (and not just for Omega - I can't buy parts directly from even lesser brands like Tag, Oris, and countless others). If you have an independent watchmaker that you use who will be losing access to their parts because they buy them from Otto Frei or Cousins or the hundreds of other material suppliers that sell them, ask your watchmaker why he doesn't work towards getting an Omega account? It's pretty obvious I can't service all the Omegas out there, so we all need others to step up and get an account rather than just whinging about "the sky is falling."

Again not directing this at you, just "out there" in general.

Sorry I'll get off my soapbox now.

Cheers, Al

 

Any barely decent watchmaker can get an Omega qualification. Swatch Group simply requires that you possess a certain number of tools and few quality pieces of equipment. You make a request and an inspector will visit your workshop. If all is fine with him, you will be called for a simple examination on a basic movement. That's all. You are then a qualified Omega watchmaker.
Of course you will not get access to parts for old calibers (such as 321) or coaxiales.