Hi guys,

I posted this on another watch site, but haven't got many replies. I thought i'd try here (though i'm still "new").

i've been looking at pictures of vintage Seamster chronometers with a 751 cal. in stainless steel. I've noticed that some dials say "T Swiss Made T" at the bottom of the dial and other just say "Swiss Made". I know that the T implies Tritium lume, but I was wondering if this specific model of watch actually had different dials.. from what i've read, there weren't that many (specifically the chronometer version) produced so it strikes me as odd that there would be different dials - but then, i'm also a newb.

is there a way to find out which dial is original? does the difference in labeling imply a redial or a franken?




Thanks!

J

 

First watch has lume dots at the tips of the markers and hand tips the second one has neither.

 

Thanks for pointing that out!

Does that mean it's reasonable that, even in limited quantities, that there were variations? Just trying to figure out how to identify real chronometer with 751 vs fake or Franken. Is this something to look for or does it not matter?

 

Usually the reference number inside the case back would confirm which caliber should be in a watch, however this is one instance where case backs for this style were usually double stamped, 168.023 for the 751 and 166.032 for the 750/752.

Code reads like this:

1 Gent's Watch
6 Self-winding center seconds
8 Water-resistant chronometer calendar

1 Gent's Watch
6 Self-winding center seconds
6 Water-resistant calendar

There was less variation for this model than many Omegas, but yes, there were some variations as we see here, lume vs no lume dials.

Got a question about one you're interested post it here for members to vet, plenty of members have these in their collections.

 

Here's a few pics..

 

Yes, the lumed versions are the most common and the non-lumed version are rarer, particularly on the 18k version.

In terms of looking out for the real McCoy, it's all in the finish of the dial. I have yet to see anyone replicate the dial finish. Apart from that you need to look for the 'signature' parts on the movement. Cal 751 stamp and the 'adjusted' script on the rotor bridge.

For points on case finish, see here

 

More points - case finish of the SS version:

 

Thanks for the info guys!

Does the one I posted look ok?

 

Hello, the second gold one without the tritium is mine (pic above is my effort as well). I bought it off the bay a few years back, pics were poor and I took a punt, only bidder and got it for about 500. When it arrived everything checked out, correct movement, case back double stamped, serial number and the dial, hands, movement in great condition! Really flawless. I have had it serviced by Vlado Sintec, well known ex-Omega watchmaker in Sydney. He did a great job and it is keeping to chronometre standards. He thinks it was my third best purchase.

The stainless one looks okay to me, but my expertise is not at the level of others here.

 

It's a beautiful piece! Thanks for sharing. I hope you don't mind that I lifted the pic from another thread.

 

No worries oddboy.

 

What do you think about this one, is it worth 3500 usd?



tamura

 

Take my words with several pinches of salt, but it looks gorgeous tamura! It has inspired me to go and put mine on my wrist

 

So so NICE!

 

Can anyone give me any feedback on the one I posted above?

 

I like to have a close up so that I can see the lume on the outer parts of the hands and lume dots on hour markers.

 

$3500 is too much for that one, the black paint on markers have faded and gone at some spots

 

I don't have a closer up pic yet. Will post when I can.

Anything interesting based on what you can see? What about the movement?

What sort of price range would be reasonable?

 

The watch should have some lume on the outer parts of the hands so that you can tell time in the dark, right? The dial should have some lume on the markers, too. because that what T Swiss Made T means. On your watch I don't see the lume on the hands and dial, I think they felt off a while ago and they used black paint on both parts of the hands and leave the dial without lume.
Talking about the movement, it looks old and dirty (old watch) the rotor may have been replaced long ago.

Wait for a better one, I think.

 

Thank you for the feedback!

What would be reasonable price for this one vs one in better shape? Trying to gain a better understanding of the market value for these types.. which I think is a ST 168-023..