I bought this watch from FS section here. Struck by its simple elegance I decided to take plunge and snatch it. After a bit delay by USPS, the watch arrived safely in Jakarta. The watch is JLC Heraion manual wind watch in 18K Yellow gold case. It dated early to mid 90s and in very good condition.




Case
My first impression this is an elegant thin watch. Less than half thickness of Connie vintage cal 5XX.



Case diameter is 34mm so approximately similar size to Connie vintage.


While this is basically a round case watch, the lugs design are integrated to the case sleekly. 18K yellow gold material still maintains its shiny after 2 decades.

Dial
The white dial is very ‘smooth’ with enamelesque look. The layout design is very simple and clean. Roman numeral used as hour markers. The hour and minute hands are leaf style. Classy and matching with the roman numeral style.

There are no date and second hands. Who needs second hand in this type of dressy watch anyway?
JLC logo from gold is applied on the dial. Below it, Jaeger LeCoultre script is written in raised black ink.


Caseback
Yellow gold caseback is screwed to the caseback via 4 tiny screws.



In the lower side Jaeger LeCoultre script is engraved thinly. You have to look at at it closely with right angle before you could read it. The watch serial number and gold hallmark are engraved above that script.

In the upper side of the caseback ‘Heraion’ script is engraved thinly.


Inside, gold hallmark and 18k 750 script are engraved as well as swiss made script.


Movement
This watch was advertised as manual wind. When it came, there was a nice surprise for me. It is not only just another manual wind. It is THE JLC Caliber 839 Manual Wind. It is predecessor to Caliber 849 that powering all JLC Master Ultra Thin.

Caliber 839 launched first time in 1975, later modified into Caliber 849. Cal 839 has 18 Jewel and comprise of 121 parts (compare to Cal 849 which has 19 jewel and 123 parts). Both are 21,600 bph manual hand winds. Its size is roughly 20.2 mm in diameter with only 1.85 mm thickness.
Walter Odet called this Caliber as
“the finest ultra thin wristwatch caliber ever produced because unlike its competitors, Caliber 839 (and 849) run with the reliability, consistency, and durability of movements two or three times their thickness. How this is accomplished is, once again, in the details of design and construction, as well as the quality of manufacture.”
http://people.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium0028


Strap and buckle
The watch came with its original black crocodile strap and 10 micron gold plated buckle. As expected of its age, the strap has shown wear and tear albeit still usable. I definitely will replace this strap with newer and more comfortable strap. An order has been placed.



Wearing the watch.
I am still in honey moon period with this watch. It is very easy to set and wear. Simple winding and setting the time took less than 30 seconds and I was ready to use the watch. It sat comfortably in my 7 inch wrist. It feels very light and the lugs hugged my wrist ergonomically. A watch that I could wear and forgot that it’s already there because its comfort and lightness. It will also slide under any cuff, even tight ones, without problem.

Sliding the cuff to check the time, the black hands over white dial provides very clear time reading, no issue there.
The watch size is fine for me who accustomed with vintage watches (especially connies vintage). However for a modern size watch it is a little bit in smaller side, probably 36 or 37 mm would make this watch appeal to broader audience. But hey, for that exact reason I could get this watch in my hand right now for a very reasonable price.

Verdict: I just couldn't help smile everytime I look at it

 

Really nice watch HP! Simple but classic in all it's elegance. Clear dial, and Roman numerals. Impressive that you braved a non Omega but who can go wrong with a JLC?

 

Congrats



With such a nice JLC you can hand over that crappy de luxe to me

 

Venturing out a little bit actually increasing my appreciation to Omega.....so probably this year I'll check out few other brand within our forum favorites (Zenith, Longines, UG....?)

 

Thanks Warren, Very few information on internet for Heraion line. I would be thankful if you could share more info on your library.......

 

Actually I plan to release that crappy Deluxe.......but the other crappy brotha' and sista' begged me not to let him go. Who am I could resist request from those big shiny and needy eyes ?

 

Very nice JLC Heraion manual wind

Increasing my appreciation for the 'ole JLCs

 

Well, dibs if you do let him go.

You know the saying
“If you love something, set it free. If it comes back, it was, and always will be yours. If it never returns, it was never yours to begin with.”

 

Nice H!

Looked at it myself back when it was listed.

 

Many thanks Warren

 

Thanks D !!!
Coming from you, the king of dress watch, it really meant something.

I have several questions for you, whom have deep knowledge on thin caliber.......
1) Is Walter Odet claim true that many thin Caliber have reliability problem, such as Piaget caliber?
2) How about Omega thin caliber (711 and 712) stands among the others?
3) What best way maintaining ultra thin caliber vs regular caliber? (Avoiding shock? Regular using? ....)

Best regards,

 

Lovely watch H! Nice catch. The old-world elegance of JLC dress watches ... Ahh!

I doubt you'll be stopping at just one ;-)

 

While there were some dogs, there were just as many excellent calibers. Piaget's first attempts had issues but it didn't take long to perfect the 9P. It's been made pretty much the same way since 1960-ish, still 2.0 mm thick. The 12P has less issues than any other microrotor because it's stabilized by a bridge across the top, unlike the Buren and UG calibers which only pivoted on the bottom.

AP's 2003 (based on a JLC 803 and was also the VC 1003, but now wholly owned by AP) has a more delicate escapement to make the movement so thin at only 1.64 mm. The roller jewel is attached directly to the bottom of the balance wheel instead of having the usual roller table. I wouldn't call the 2003 a problem, just not a movement you'd want in a sport's watch. Their automatic 202x is probably the finest full rotor ultra-thin made. The rotor rides on round jewels and the movement is sturdy enough that AP uses it in Royal Oaks.

Jean Lassale made the manual 1200 (only 1.2 mm thick) and automatic 2000 ultra-thins in the 70's which I'd say had reliabilty issues. The tiny ball bearings wore out and the whole idea was good on paper but crappy in reality. It would be cool to see it redone with ceramic bearings. I understand Pierre Mathys has reconstituted the Lassale 1200.

Concord built some of the parts into the case for the Delirium models, which led to problems if there was any bending of the watch.

It's a solid and accurate movement, just not as thin as the others. I doubt you'll here it mentioned as being in the same league as the AP/VC calibers.

There's no special treatment necessary other than what you'd expect with any dress watch. Don't golf or play tennis with it. Wear it to the office and to nice restaurants and don't worry.

 

I know it is contagious and addictive, isn't it? I need to be strong....
First step: avoiding JLC books and catalogues . Second step: avoiding JLC as keyword in ebay . Third step: coming back to the ole' familiar Speedy and Connie world

 

I have to warn you that Warren is a master enabler. He helped me with my Reverso, then together with Dennis, helped me with my RDM, and now has got me eyeing a Master Moon. The catalogs are the 1st behavioral 'nudge' toward more JLCs

 

Is the Zaf Basha book a good buy? They're kind of hard to find. I bought my first JLC (a Futurematic) from Zaf and he seemed like a nice chap and a really good seller.